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Yes. Buy from reputable sources only. Bearing races should be really tight - substantially warming the hubs helps with fitting and removing them. If they are not really tight then probably worth assembling with bearing fitting loctite. Note that there are variations. Those that take Herald/Spit bearings (rare), those that take Vit/GT6 bearings, both available with Ford and Triumph PCD. Another variation, as shown here are the CC big-bearing ones. That Subaru info is an excellent find. Adding that to my library - thanks 

Good to know. Confirms my determined choice of the std wheels studs for my Spitfire. 76g of unsprung weight is 76g Pondered the alloy hubs. 2.26kg off the front of the car is not to be sniffed at. Almost 0.5% of the weight of a 600kg car. But I have heard mixed reviews regarding bearing races coming loose over time. Any comments on Sideways? Nice to see some progress too

Hail stones and Hail Mary?

Motivational anyway 

Yes, that's what I thought! Moderation and peer pressure prevent boards such as ours from offending against the OSA. Naughton is a newspaper columnist, who cynics might say was just after copy, but he is also "senior research fellow in the Centre for Research in the Arts, Social Sciences, and Humanities at Cambridge University, Director of the Press Fellowship Programme at Wolfson College, Cambridge, emeritus professor of the public understanding of technology at the British Open University, and adjunct professor at University College, Cork" (Wikipedia)  So DO he and his informant have real grounds for concern? I've written to him c/o the Observer asking him to use his next column to explain why he thinks ordinary sites are so threatened. John

Contact cleaner.

Go have a nice cup of coco and worry about something else.   

I have a vested interest in this as I look after the CT forum I have just glanced at this page https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/online-safety-act-explainer/online-safety-act-explainer  which is having a good stab at being succinct.  It appears that there just needs to be a system in place to deal with inappropriate/harmful content. Which we all have, as the online community is very good at reporting dodgy content, and moderators act swiftly to deal with it. And to be perfectly honest, in 15 years I have never seen anything remotely harmful. It is all either spam or spats between people who ought to know better.

Post Xmas work has begun .  

So, I managed to sneak some work on the Spitfire over the holidays. All a bit of fits and starts as I stumbled across issues that needed parts ordering, but uncovering problems is still progress so that's all good. First job was to try and work out why the R160 I'd swapped the LSD core into had a tight spot in its rotation. I was originally thinking either a bit of grit stuck between the crownwheel and the core, or worse that we warped the core slightly by tigging it up, but it turned out to be something much simpler, as evidenced by this witness mark: Turns out the little stamped steel oil thrower was ever so slightly not symmetric, and poked out a little on one side. A little tickle with a sanding wheel and it turns nice and smoothly. While I had the case off I noticed a bit of porosity in the casting around where the seal goes, so filled it with chemical metal as insurance against leaks. Next up was sorting the hybrid Rover 100/Subaru axles. Trick with these is that the short driveshaft from a K-Series metro has the same splines as some of the Subaru R160 inner CV joints, and is spot on the right length to fit a rotoflex rear suspension. I'd already managed to pick up a set of Subaru driveshafts, but it's pot luck as far as I know as to whether they're right for the Rover shafts. This is them with the CVs already whipped off: Luckily they were the right ones, which is a relief. I know @Nick Jones has gone through a few pairs and found them not to be right. If it helps, I found in the Subaru service manual that there's an identification band on the shafts, and the one I looked at had one band on it. Will double check that later though. I did discover that there's a bit of fore-aft play on the CV centre when you fit it to the Rover shaft. The splines on the Subaru shaft must be shorter. Bought some 22mm ID shims and filed a little chamfer on the inside to clear the end of the splines. Measured 2mm, but it was actually closer to 1.8mm it actually needed. Didn't order the right shims, but managed to sand down the 2mm ones to the right fit. Probably not the  The thing that stopped this job dead was buying the wrong CV boot. For some reason I'd got the Rover shaft as needing 24mm when it's actually 22.5mm (Subaru end is 72mm), and it needs something like 115-120mm length rather than the 90mm I've got. I've ordered some from a Freelander 1 which look a bit better, but not arrived yet (part number G5C028PC if they do work!). So, from that onto the fronts. Managed to scrimp and save for some lovely alloy hubs and uprated stubs. First issue with these is that the studs are the old skinny Triumph ones (understandable as they're supposed to be direct replacements), and the splines are bigger than the originals so the Freelander studs I have in the old hubs don't fit. Solution was to ream them out to 14mm and fit Toyota ones (51mm Long, M12x1.5, 14.3mm knurl). Next issue was actually with the uprights. I noticed the old stubs pretty much just fell out, which isn't ideal. Trying to do up the new stubs was taking way too much force to stop them rotating, so I figured the taper in the upright was probably bored a fraction too deep and it was bottoming out on the washer before clamping properly. Welded together an M22 and an M14 washer to make a stepped jobby... ...which let the stub pull back properly and clamp up nicely. That job's stopped by the fact Canleys are out of stock on the alloy Type 16 caliper brackets, and there's no point fitting the hubs until I've got those on. But still, progress is progress, even if it's a bit scattergun Oh, and also did some weighing. Only one more photo for evidence, but I'll list all of the weights I've found for these. Front hub (alloy, UNF studs, no bearings): 1.02kg Above plus bearings and spacers: 1.239kg Above plus castle nut and split pin: 1.326kg Front hub (cast iron, no studs, no bearings): 2.25kg M12 Freelander studs x4: 0.156kg UNF studs from alloy hubs x4: 0.118kg That's nearly enough to actually know how they compare. Just need to weigh the Toyota studs, and the GT6 stub/bearings/castle nut etc. Will get those next time I can. Will be missing the weight of the standard GT6 UNF studs, but that'll only be a couple of grams difference.