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Nick Jones

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    http://www.shadetreegarage.co.uk

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  1. We did spend a lot of time hunting down noisy things (wiper switch, blower motor, horn relay being just some examples) also earth offsets and volt drops. Some of these surprisingly large on connections that looked ok.
  2. This sounds ever so familiar. Only we were having these problems with a Hall sensor and they’ve almost entirely gone away with the VR sensor. The Speeduino seems very “tender” with respect to electronic noise.
  3. I am. So far. Mostly. The AI chatbot got some abuse for being useless! No useful feedback from my “complaint” thus far. Would be nice if someone who knows their stuff would give me a ring. It’s maybe something I’m doing /have done, but if I can’t work out what I can’t fix it!
  4. Hmm… that’s a puzzler. Noid light is a good shout. Does the manual/wiring diagram show whether the ECU switches the power or the earth for the injectors? If earth you should be able to measure battery voltage at the injector with ignition on….. if power, you should have a good earth path from injectors to frame at all times…. Also whether all injectors are on a single batch fire, split batch fire (2/2) or sequential. This last because it’s most unlikely that more than one injector driver would fail simultaneously in the ECU.
  5. They were unwise enough to send me a survey link….….. ……… we want to know how you found our customer support they said. I told them quite clearly. Apparently they consider it a complaint - fine, excellent - it is! But how are you going to resolve the original problem? No news on that!
  6. Hmm…. That should help. First look-up: is there an injector fuse and if there is, where is it? Have you already checked fuel pressure is being generated?
  7. Ah, but this was done for a reason. This is a “solution” to the winter problem of carbs icing up (albeit a cheap and nasty one). They wanted the forward-facing cold air inlets to be a little restrictive so that a proportion of warmer air from around the manifolds would also be drawn in, preventing (maybe) icing. Footnote is that I can tell you for a fact that this “technology” didn’t work on the 1850 - though the exhaust is on the opposite side of the head on that engine - Trying to stop your Dolly 1850 (marginal brakes at best) from 70mph on a downhill motorway slip road when the throttles are frozen at least half open is the stuff of nightmares, as is having the engine immediately rev off the end of the tacho when you finally twig what’s going on and finally dip the clutch….
  8. It’s not smarter than us….. but it maybe thinks it is.
  9. Oh, deep joy….. Still firing on brake cleaner?
  10. Thanks Roger. Not sure I'm up for making a whole new bearing carrier! Interesting that you reckon there's no seal that will suit the combination of seal type sleeve and scroll type input shaft. Did you consider machining the scroll-type sleeve to suit a seal? No doubt all the correct parts are in the 'box that's in the car - but I was hoping to arrange everything for a straight swap over! I suppose i could just leave it as a scroll type - doesn't appear to have been leaking all that much!
  11. Thanks. I’m sure there will be a seal that matches the shaft and the later seal housing. I may have the later seal housing but could also machine the scroll housing I suppose.
  12. Yes, that’s the easy part. The input shaft seems to have a smaller diameter where the seal would run though? Either that or Paddocks have sent the wrong seal.
  13. Just dismantled a non-OD Dolly 1500 gearbox as a donor for the OD conversion. It’s in fairly good shape - never been apart before by the looks. Just a hint of pitting starting on the layshaft so I’ll flip that through 180 on reassembly. Only disappointment is that it’s an earlier one with the scroll “seal” on the input shaft. Seems that the input daft is different (smaller) so I can’t just swap the bell housing. ISTR @rogerguzzi got around this somehow?
  14. Yeah, not common around here either!
  15. As I see it, the problem is that fuel is heavier than air, so cylinders that are on a straighter line (3/4 in this case) will get more fuel as it’s happy to go straight on. Conversely, where the fuel has to make a very tight turn (1/6 in this case), they’ll get less as some of the fuel will overshoot and fail to make the turn, making the others, 3/4 especially, richer. The standard Stromberg manifolds suffer the same issues, but I would suspect to a much lesser extent.
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