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Possibly worth using a bigger needle roller as per my earlier post.?

Well, got there in the end. Thanks all. Thanks Nick, your tip worked on the first shaft and sure contributed to the second. After several attempts and cycles of heat, and the hub sitting on the edge of some 10mm plate, I started whacking on the opposite side. I was really laying in to it, about to give up, and pop, it sprang lose. More confident now, I went through the same process with the second shaft, leaving under tension over night etc. It wouldn't budge. Sh*t or bust, i extended the breaker bar and hung on it. There was a loud crack and at first I thought I had broken the socket, but surprised/relieved to see the hub had come loose. At first glance I think the shafts are usable? I can feel a very slight ridge just before the 'flinger' on both. Not sure if its caused by bearing wear or the point at which the needle rollers stop on the taper. Both shafts are smooth up to that point. What's your thoughts?  

Hello, From my experience when one retires life gets more hectic. Regards, Michael

Hello, I know what it is, I was just giving a subtle stir about it! Regards, Michael.

Fraid I don't have any info on this one? As far as I am aware, Nuala only ever owned the one GT6, mentioned above. She had several spitfires, but she certainly never mentioned another GT6.

Hi Rob  many thanks for that The Thyristor was fully ON when the earth was rapidly removed. This appeared to turn it OFF But when the earth was remade (before fitting the pull up resistor) the Thyristor came fully back ON With the pull up resistor fitted it did not come back ON.    Suggesting that it was fully OFF.   Roger

if there was no current flowing through the thyristor when the earth was removed it  probably was turned off but the transient current spike through internal capacitance might have turned it back on when you re-made the earth connection.  Thyristors are rather prone to dv/dt switching when power is applied suddenly*.  Your pull-up resistor might just be slowing things down enough to prevent that.   * Back in the very late '60s  a (considerably richer) friend of mine bought a brand-new Ford Corsair and after some months decided to build himself an anti-theft device for it, based on a thyristor which was used to somehow short out the ignition circuit to prevent the engine being started. It seemed to work well after installation until the first time he actually did start the engine, at which point the ignition spikes tripped the  thyristor which latched fully on.   The first indication of this was that the engine promptly stopped again - accompanied shortly afterwards by clouds of acrid white smoke from under the dash.   Only swift disconnection of the battery saved the day and luckily everything still worked when the immobiliser was removed.   He didn't keep that car for very long after that. 

Well spotted! It is my Austin A30, which keeps getting bumped back in the build process. There is a separate thread about it on here somewhere. It has got an A-series 1380cc engine with a BMW 16v bike head. I need to retire soon to get all these things done, before my body expires!!

Hi & welcome, The only Nuala Dowie Mk2 GT6 I’m aware of is the one in this thread Which isn’t the same one obviously. However, the owner of this one…..@thebrookster ….. knew Nuala quite well and may be able to answer the question of whether she ever had your blueish (Valencia?) one. Tax search shows it as SORN but no way to know (that I know of) when it was last taxed.  MoT search shows it was MoT’d until mid 2017. May have been used since the as exempt, so again not definitive. Quite likely still exists but not getting out much! We do also have a Valencia blue mk2 on here (which has been nicely restored) but it’s not the right one either.