Following on from Andy Thompsons blog 3 years ago with Morgan the Conifer Mk.1.
Now UK registered .
Here are some recent-ish pictures from the cars highly successful exploits on the Club Triumph 10CR run last September.
It performed faultlessly - a credit to Andy T for carrying out such a fine recommisson in 2017 .
A lovely picture of Morgan with Andy T's brothers PI parked up while the owners had a breather on the Autobahn heading north on the last day of the 10CR.
Ok, finally sorted Megalog Viewer to show the temperatures I recorded on a 20 minute run. The car was already hot.
The ambient temp was about 20C and this is shown as the blue line Temp6 from a sensor behind the grille. It does get slightly warmer after idling. See the bottom white line for RPM.
Yellow line Temp7 was recordered at the heater air intake on the firewall under the bonnet and Red line Temp4 was stuck up into the heater intake air box through the water drain hole.
The air he
well it's been so long since I updated my http://dggt6.blogspot.com.au/ , I can't get back into it.
So now I have something to write and show, I thought I would host it here amongst the many friends who have tried to keep me sane.
A major reason for megasquirting my car was because of the "measuring" that can be done. I ordered my MS2 with an extra coolant sensor because I wanted to measure the coolant temp coming out of the engine as well as the temp coming out of the radiator/going in
As consumers learn more about the importance of sustainable living, more homeowners are turning their attention to eco-friendly projects for their homes. As demand increases so does supply and there are many in the construction industry seeking for eco-friendly solutions to help consumers live sustainably. One of these solutions which has been growing in popularity is metal roofing.
The rise of metal roofing
When you look at all the benefits of metal roofing, its easy to see why it's become
I've only just joined so I thought I would put a few words together.
Ok, I've got a 1964 Vitesse 6 that has previously had its body restored, a 2000 engine from a MK2 saloon fitted along with a overdrive unit and a Swing spring at the rear. The interior was completely replaced and looked very good when I purchased it 2 years ago.
Since owning, I've replaced the battery which failed 1 hr after buying the car, don't you just love some sellers.
It also pulled badly to the left. Va
This one takes me to the studio in a grand old soviet style concert hall.
Russian trams take many shapes and sizes, most of them dating from 40 years or so ago.
They only ever get stopped by the odd car that is stupid enough to get in the way.
(saw one the other day,a demolished brand new BMW. Unfortunately it blocks the trams solid for hrs while the insurers arrive in true bureaucratic russian style)
They have a great way of warming up the most important parts.
Now why couldn't th
Fuel Rail Question...
So I'm in the middle of getting all the parts together to replace the Lucas Mechanical PI system on my car to a modern EFI system, more for reliability, ease of tuning and saving petrol than there being anything wrong with the current set up, and I have a question re the fueling.
I have the shiney new fuel rail ready to drill out and I was wondering if I need a pressure relief valve on the end of the fuel rail to keep fuel in the rail supplying the injectors or not
finally I managed to get some things fixed on the racer:
- The silencer is modified to fit and in place. A custom big box (oval with 262x116 mm, with 350mm length to fit under the trunk) with some additional tweaks. I hope it meets Zandvoort noise restrictions without further mods required.
- I switched from rubber engine mounts to PU engine mounts. Shore 70. Not much engine movement left at the moment. I'm curious how long they will last or if the metal-PU bonding will detach.
So, I'm going to start blogging about spitfire tweaking. I've been pretty busy last year with non-car related stuff (read: the business that pays my rent), so no racing, no fiddling, and not mutch Spitfire at all. Now I'm going to clean up the garage, reload the starter batteries, wipe the dust from the cars, and pick up again the work where I stopped: get a new TÃœV for the road car, build a new exhaust for the racer, and get the front suspension sorted: new dampers, modify the a-arms to get tr
The theme this month was "Post 70s Sporting Legends" - pictures HERE.
Our Jag was almost sent away; they didn't believe it was 74! Ended up next to the new 500... not what I'd consider a sporting legend!!!
Also met up with my friend with the GT6; who lent me the caliper spreader - I "lent" him four pints of real ale
Aaron here; I believe I may be the first person to take up residence in this blog section. If not; then I must be the youngest.
Anyway; my car's thread is here.
And a random video of it is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HC2qrnOl4I
Thought id be the first to start a blog.
With regards to the car, not much is happening, focus has changed. Car is going to be made as std racing spec as possible, classic race series is out my budget but if i make it stock performance i should be able to manage a hillclimb or two a year.
I got the all clear from the hospital yesterday, leg is now at 95% strength after 7 months of healing, however it still needs some work. As such a race licence is a no go for 12 months until the give me
I have put dose in the tank and will run it tomorrow to mix it up (think it maybe the wrong stuff!)
But I have had another thought I have changed Spitty tank vent from through the filler cap to a pipe to the rear of the car!
So I think I will seal this breather then no air/moisture can get in Etc and I do not think I will have to worry about expansion in a cold garge in the Winter!
ps thoughts? or am I just a daft old Bugger?
Still we are going to book a break to Albert fury Porugal at the start of march for a bit of temperate weather and away from what ever happens here!
I recon it will be about £1000 for the week including a couple of trip and self catering(which we like) so about the same as Spain £1000 a week for 2 which in these times seems reasonable?
Roger and the Happy Memsahib
So…. Something bad happened to the Triumph gearbox. 3rd gear suddenly go noisy under load. That’ll be that oilite bush spigot bearing bodge we did crying enough. It’s lasted about 12k.
So that forced some action…..
Old lump coming out. It weighs 151 kgs.
Old and new side by side
New going in for the first time. First of many one suspects. It weighs 119kg.
Fits in the hole, though rather snug in places
induction arrangements are under review…..
rearmost TB wants to occupy space already claimed by the bulkhead.
Busy weekend. Painted a few bits, pulled the oil pump from the 1500. It's within tolerance, but had some heavy scoring, on the top and bottom faces, so I suspect it's in need of replacing. Also got the transmission tunnel out. That's a fairly awful mix of cardboard components. I'm going to consider just trying to bond it all together with epoxy for the time being, but I think a new tunnel is in order in the not too distant future. Also wiring is a mess under there. I need to neaten it up and look into overdrive wiring. The overdrive is currently wired to a switch on the dash, and it looks like this is because there doesn't seem to be enough space to wire in the switch with the gear lever. Not a big deal, but it would be nice to sort it.
Ever since I started building my engines with as high compression as I could with 99 octane, I put some of this stuff in the tank at season's end. Or I have done since spring starting found a loud knock, that went away as soon as I filled up with fresh fuel.
The contents of a stabiliser seem to vary by manufacturer, but a typical list culled from Hazard sheets incudes:
"Distillates" - Alkanes (10-13 carbon), Hexanol (6 carbon), naphtha.
toluene, benzene or methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl (octane raisers) phenylenediamine (anti-'gumming' agent)
but I doubt that short list is comprehensive
The websites of the makers of stabilisers are completely opaque as to how they work (or if they do!). apart from waffle about "gums", but from my experience above, I think that modern fuel loses some of the octane raising additives that replace tetra-ethyl lead. The above contents of a stabiliser add octane raisers, and some long chain hydrocarbons, that may be chosen to less susceptible to oxidation in stored fuel to produce "gums" that the last inhibits.
This has to be a subject for the Common Room of Sideways University! And members of the Department of Chemistry (Petroleum Technology). Anyone in?
I use generally use battery voltage as a measure of condition on my GT6 and Honda S2000 and also use a Ctek charger.
The S2000 has a tiny battery (40Ah and 400ca) and gets drained rather quickly, I think by the alarm. Ultimately using it regularly is the answer. After a reluctance to start, I did take the car to a battery/tyre shop and they checked it with one of those smaller testers, pronouncing it fine but with low charge. I now have a rechargeable lithium/iron jumper pack as a back up.
By comparison the 70Ah 600cA on the GT6 is a beast and spins the engine over just fine with a modern starter motor.
My usual rite in the Springtime, when getting the 'BlueRacer' (TR4) out of hibernation, is to spend a couple of hours. cranking, swearing, new plugs, clean float chamber,
squirt of Start U Bast*** , more swearing and then she starts..
So this year for the first time I have topped the tank up and used Sta-Bil.
This should stabilise the effects of the Ethanol.
I'll report back in the Spring.
I have used this millers vspe plus for years - it’s what my dad used in all sorts of vintage and classics so has proved itself over very many years.
available from various sources and prices this is the big multi shot bottle.
but I confess to not using it for the last 2 seasons on the “new” engine as the valve seats have been done. But I wonder if it’s worth continuing for the octane bootstrap and ethanol benefits ?
I hear tooth things about the valve master version too.
but I think there are dedicated additives to be used when laying a vehicle up for a few months that may be better suited.
i think it could be cheaper than filling the tank with my preferred V power only to find it’s “gone off” over a few months of sitting.
but this thread has made me decide to add some millers vspe to what’s left in the tank as I’m ashamed to say the tr hasn’t moved for a couple of months.