zetecspit

I have a volvo one (probably the same?) on the way. I am thinking the not shutting fully is OK with a plenum whith a single throttle body, as it seems to shut nice and tight. Guess I will find out!

Roget what is teh part bolted to the valve? (ie the bit with the 4 holes etails and the filter) as I have not seen that, just the valves itself And I like the idea of a seperate mini filter on the valve, very neat and much easier than tapping into the main filter.

Hmm, I have to make do with an angle grinder, drill and a newish hefty die grinder! I occasionally borrow a bit of lathe time, but it is ancient and not always as accurate as I would like. As I am using a single thottle body/plenum, I think I should be OK. Time will tell. Still thinking about MAF though, brave new word and all that.

Ah yes, not a simple solution. I am hoping the one I am getting will be pretty simple. For the last 10 years I have not used an idle valve on my ITBs, but I seem to have got away with it. I suspect the plenum setup may make one more desirable.

The one I got looks to be 2 pin?

Having read through one of the install guides, and looking at the loom, it appears MAF is a genuine option for me. I have been b=nosing through the pros/cons. It seems virtually all modern cars (ie 30 years or so old) use MAF. It means IAT MAP and Baro correction are no longer needed as they are all there to calculate the mass of air entering the engine, which the MAF does in one go. Downsides seem to be they don't like aggressive cams (I am using std factory cams, no issue there) or VERY high RPM. I hit 7k, but limiter comes in soon after, so again no issue. Is it a daft idea to simply buy an ST170 MAF and connect it up? Have I missed something? Seems too simple (at least in theory)

But carbs had a choke and fast idle! That idle valve is the face-fit type, I couldn't work out how to get filtered air into one side and out the other into my plenum. Luckily I have found this which I hope will be fine. More of a concern is I have been reading through the "quick guide" and the idea of MAF has got to me... New thread incoming.

Is that one with "hose tails" as most seem to be face-fit which looks "diificult" On teh plus side I have just ordered an early KA throttle body for £8, purely for the "snail" linkage bit to graft onto the ST170 throttle body. That will save having to make one. been looking at the look. I need to dig out the "illuminated magnifyer" we have so I can read what each cable says on it.

Saying all that, the word "uprated" always makes me nervous when I see it used with no specification of why.

Didn't the calipers come with them?

But why uprated? I have seen split pins used on spaced calipers, in fact I think I used them as they came in my kit from Canleys. I since made some.

I am microsquirting my spitfire (having removed the old ecu and ITBs) and I am after some guidance on a suitable idle valve and temp sensor before I paint/finish my inlet plenum. I am obviously getting old as my poor brain is getting in a tiswas with information overload. All I want is a 2 wire PWM idle valve that can be plumbed in and reliable. Prefer proper OEM if possible. Plus is there a recommended air temp sensor? More questions may well follow!

Yes, but in the student houses the machines get used 15-20 times a week! (females deffo do a lot more washing, except the 6 goths in one place I look after where stuff seems to get worn and simply left on the floor. I am not keen on that lot, they have a serious attitude issue too.

Our approach with the student houses (incl the ones I look after) has neem to buy whatever machine is cheapest with a 5 year warranty. Recently I was disappointed that ine died after 7 years. It was repairable (the pump impellor had snapped, caused by "user error" but very shortly after a new batch had moved in, a key and other stuff was in there) Rather than the hassle of a repair etc, our approach is simple replacement. In this case they got lucky and a rather upmarket Hotpoint that was reduced and inclded a 5yr warranty. Think it was £450 all in (inc del and removal of old machine, but I "fitted" it saving about £30) Apart from that, I think over the last 35 years and up to 8 machines, only a couple have failed within the 5 years, and one of those was "unrepairable" so got the original purchase price of the machine back. Record for longevity was 15 years, and that was replaced as the front of the machine was so rusty it had a chunck missing, causing the seal the leak. Remember, these machines have a hard time with often 5+ people using them. So I reckon they are all pretty decent in terms of lifespan. More important is what was cycles are on offer. At home we got a beko when the trusty Miele failed at about 15 years old and was not a sensible repair. New machine chosen as it will do a decent wash in 30mins. Talking of which, anybody know of a washer dryer that can do a sensible washing load (ie not just 2kg) and dry it in a couple of hours? ALl teh ones I have seen say nearly 6 hours! (wanted as I manage a place with 3 Rigsby type bedsits with people who have been there nearly 40 years, local launderette has shut so want to install a washer dryer in the communial hallway.)

I get the feeling Trump will get away with this IF he can indirectly control the new leadership setup and no more fuss is made. If he can do that (which I would be amazed about) AND keep out of Iran, things will settle down. If he pokes his nose into Iran, it will be a very different kettle of fish. As to Greenland, I wonder if everybody would just stand back, tutting away under their breath. It would likely be bloodless, and affect very few people. I doubt Europe would wan't to get involved, and no doubt Trump would sweeten things with some sort of "deal"