-
Images
Forums
-
General Chit Chat
-
- 194
- posts
-
Welcome and News
Let us know who you are and give us a link to your site. No linkbacks required i just like to be nosy
- 2,515
- posts
-
- 20,343
- posts
-
- 13,913
- posts
-
- 6,530
- posts
-
- 2,488
- posts
-
- 3,227
- posts
-
- 670
- posts
-
-
Technical discussion boards
-
- 8,486
- posts
-
- 1,549
- posts
-
- 8,058
- posts
-
- 2,783
- posts
-
- 497
- posts
-
- Oops
- By Nick Jones
-
- 4,941
- posts
-
- 488
- posts
-
- 911
- posts
-
- 4,655
- posts
-
- 389
- posts
-
- 133
- posts
-
- 77
- posts
-
- 8,632
- posts
-
-
General Car Discussions
-
- 1,115
- posts
-
- 824
- posts
-
- 170
- posts
-
- 171
- posts
-
- 500
- posts
-
- 165
- posts
-
-
Trading Area
-
- 2,773
- posts
-
- 2,864
- posts
-
- 25
- posts
-
-
Forum Statistics
7,449
Total Topics100,128
Total Posts
-
Recent Posts
-
It foams as well when setting, so not ideal for gluing veneer? If you got the same sort? That action is ideal for GRP repair as it penetrates the matt, and as I said before fills voids. I had one nasty crack, no significant gel coat loss, but still completely detatched, so I ground out a 'V' of gel, sprayed water, put Glue in and covered it with a strip of plastic bag, taped down with masking. The result is almost a perfect repair! It's ready for painting (if you're not fussy - this is a race car; war wounds are allowed), and the Glue has penetrated behind as it swelled, unable to get forwards, locking the sides of the crack togther. John -
By Darren Groves · Posted
Mine is wired up with the Fuel Pump relay which switches off after a couple of seconds if you don't crank the engine, but I must confess to bypassing this and powering up and leaving on for a bit when I was getting things set-up in the early days, but only a handful of times, but maybe that caused some damage. We'll see how it goes. Darren -
By rogerguzzi · Posted
Hello All That,s the stuff I used to glue the veneer on to the dashboard. I read its only worth buying a bottle big enough for the job as it starts to go off once opened(damp air) water is the activating agent. But on saying that just looked at the bottle in the garage and it is still liquid inside(did not take the top off) but whether it is any good still? Roger -
By Nick Jones · Posted
That's pretty much where mine is and that has lasted for years. It survived some pretty significant oil burning by the old engine too. Nick -
-
By oldtuckunder · Posted
Ok looks a good position, just asked as Innovate recommend longer bungs if they are fitted closer to the head. And I know that the wideband sensors don't like being powered up heated if they have damp/condensation on them, but looks like you have that all covered. In terms of early failure of wideband sensors, one of the areas of discussion is should you power them up before starting the engine, or only just as you are starting the engine, Innovate recommend only when starting (although contrary advice can be found elsewhere). One thing that is recommended is that you don't power them up and leave them powered up without starting the engine, so for example if you have them wired to come on with ignition switch and you turn the ignition on to test/wire up do other things for any period then it can cause premature failure. I have my sensors wired so that they only come on when I power the fuel pump, i.e. I really am going to start the engine. Alan -
By Darren Groves · Posted
Just a standard length bung and the sensor is at around 1 O'clock. Darren -
By oldtuckunder · Posted
Where do you have it mounted, and in what orientation to the pipe, also what kind of bung do you have welded into exhaust for it? long short? picture? Alan -
There's tape, wood glue, epoxy, sealant, super glue etc, but this the GLUE! http://uk.gorillaglue.com/gorilla-glue A 60ml bottle for less than a fiver goes a long way! John
-
By Nick Jones · Posted
Thanks. Which one exactly? I think there is a range of Gorilla Glues? Could have done with it to stick the A8 bumper back together after the Bambi incident! Nick
-
-
Topics
-