Miss updating Alan.
I think he had some influence today on some of the car and drivers both good and bad.
One car went home early with a misfire and failed starter motor.
i on the other hand had a great day and can confirm brave pills can work.
Last time here in the spring I managed a personal best time of 75.09 with a target bogey time of 73.00s
today each run got better
Practice 1 75.16
practice 2 74.73 chuffed to get into the 74’s
competition run 1 74.10
now believing I could possibly get into the 73’s naive I know
last run 73.68 blood amazing
The frustrations of previous fuelling misfires well and truly put behind me.
apart from taking the first left hander carrying more speed (brave pill). The rest was just smoother
I hope there is a video to follow which will show where the improvements are.
This thread seems to cover the topic ... but I'd still appreciate contact with any that have experience of making it work in practice - so I can discuss the pros & cons , do's & don'ts - and any stylish switches / mounts / warning lights
I think you are right with your gearing calculations, Certainly Roger finds his useful and I don't think the gear ratios are very different between Mk2 and 1500.
Don't think you'd break a D-type with an 1147, even in second gear.
Having trouble getting my head around how you'd make inhibitor switches work on a 3 rail box to give you OD in 2nd, 3rd and 4th but not 1st and especially not reverse. Might need a switch in the box cover rather than external ones on the remote?
Changed all 4 shocks on the GT for new ones, didn't get around to setting them up though as the exhaust was hanging off, probably from all the new speed bumps around here, i seem to be the only one who does slow down for them, so have left it up on stands for a few more days.
Tightened up the n/s drive shaft, filled the diff with oil, cleaned some well oily dirty bits, sorted the bonnet seals, cleaned the wheels, changed the oil in the Sprite, cleaned up the oil over spill :-) , started on the Defender chassis.
Busy day, i'm tired.
feel I'm chickening out by taking my MKIV Spitfire on 10CR and not my MKII.
Back in the day the Rallying Spitfires did The Alpine and Monte etc and I'm chickening out of taking the Alpine passes in my 1147cc. Problem is - she has a fast road cam ( comes in at c. 3200rpm ) and a 3:89 Diff - therefore ... great for cruising the long miles to the Alps - but not so good for pulling up the hills - she struggles to pull 3rd as the revs drop... The thought of grinding and buzzing away from lacet to lacet in 2nd doesn't really appeal.
Logically a gear in the long gap between 2nd & 3rd seems the obvious answer. The simplest solution I've heard seems to be just to completely bypass the inhibitor switch by joining both wires ... but this solves one problem and creates two ... a) risk of trashing o/d by reversing with o/d engaged & b) would require me to simultaneously drop O/D as I changed up from O/D 2nd to 3rd.
Now I'm not that technical - it takes Janet & John type explanations before I even begin to comprehend many issues ... but I guess what I'm asking is: can anyone provide a step by step guide to adding O/D 2nd to to my options? Better still, point me in the direction of an affordable workshop experienced in achieving this mod without sacrificing any long-term reliability.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158072UR - could the replacement actuator be adapted to work on 2nd too? Has anyone done this?
An old post on Triumph Experience suggests:
"My calculations show the 2-over would be a very middle position between 2 and 3. Second is 2.16 2-Over I think would be 2.16 x 0.797 = 1.72, and Third is 1.39 "
... so I think I've talked myself through the theory and that by machining a correctly shaped actuator - understand perhaps how it can be achieved ... I just really need someone with the engineering competence, experience and workshop facilities to make it happen ... anyone?
( PS ... is there no way on here that one can edit ones original post? )