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Thanks, that's invaluable advice. I'll assess the weight once I've got the paint off, probably with an entire stack of blue rolls and some acetone. The part of me that likes complicating projects is already wondering if I can split the support frame from the shell, cut a load of weigh out, then bond it back together. I'm trying to keep this part of me quiet or I'll never get anything done! -
By Escadrille Ecosse · Posted
Commercial stuff can be quite heavy, but expect it will still be a lot lighter than the steel panel. Removing paint from GRP. Do not use any of the products sold as paint stripper. The chemicals in many of these are not particularly fussy and will quite happily attack the gelcoat as well as the paint. If there are a lot of layers, there are no chips and you are very careful not to remove all of them then you might get away with it. But the problem is that the chemicals leach into the gelcoat and cannot really be fully removed so will come back to attack the underside of any subsequent paint coating. Basically your options are careful sanding or cellulose thinners and acetone. Working away with an almost endless series of cloths. Outside. I've done both. Neither is much fun although the solvent approach has the advantage of avoiding any gelcoat damage. Obviously the solvents won't work on epoxy coatings but probably not been used here. -
The lack of focus is real. Snapped up a grp bootlid to add to the lightweight components. I've not weighed it yet, but it's disappointing heavy. I've not ever lifted a steel boot so maybe it's still a saving? The scales will come out in due course, but not before I remove the old colour schemes. It's been at least green and blue and there's a reasonable thickness of paint. Did anyone have a go to paint stripper? Paint rubs off nicely with carb cleaner, but that's not really sensible for the whole boot...
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thanks guys, im glad i left it for a few days and had anothe look, all good info to know for the threads, you all saved me a massive ass ache so thank you. its not completely clear, but i think i found the culprit, looks like the drain plug is dry, the only thing with a trace is the reverse shaft retaining bolt, its not that clear but everything was bone dry and now its nice and leaky. Quick Google shows im not the only one with a leak like this, which is nice. Now, taking it out is risky. So back it out enough and lash ptfe over it? Or gently take it out, ptfe and out back in. And yes I'm well aware I'll never get a leak free car, but the box leak with it going straight onto the exhaust is driving me crazy -
Using both feet, that must have been a trouser changing moment. -
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By Nick Jones · Posted
Verdon Gorge region is superb. Suggest calling at Point Sublime which gives a good look into the gorge without actually having to go into it. I think we do our share but could/should do more while we still can! We aren’t as good as you at sniffing out the sights, culture and bargain restaurants. Possibly Spain is a more target-rich environment? -
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By Escadrille Ecosse · Posted
Quite right Roger. Use it or lose it It has suddenly turned colder for sure. And on that note, this old fart is off to Provence on Saturday, with the pedal bike, to ride the Verdon Gorge region and weather permitting do my best TdF impression (ie not very good) up Ventoux. Then taking the TGV to Girona for another week of cycling round those parts. Never been to either so should be fun. And warm! -
By Nick Jones · Posted
Those pedals….. heaveee man. He has a servo and big brakes - he shouldn’t be needing both feet! Also I’ve not yet broken the std pedal even when using both feet
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