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Speedysix

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  1. I'm fairly sure I have this type, still have yet to check! Weather has been awful until today!
  2. Ah ok, threadlock is definitely a must, sounds about right to me!
  3. I have to admit that is really nice! I am tempted but now torn which one to go for! Jacob
  4. I think I'm going to go for both.. might sound silly but rebuild the joint and keep the UJ as a spare. I need to check my joint in the morning which type it is.. if its not raining! Gt6 has been somewhat neglected lately, sitting outside on the drive in the horrible weather !.. definitely not another car in the garage What sort of torque figure would it need when replacing the bushes in the joint? Surely quite a large one!
  5. Hi chaps, so the honeymoon period with the gt6 resto is finally over and now I'm just putting out a few minor issues that have developed over the past 2k miles. The lower column joint is causing about an inch or so of play, super dangerous and obviously need replacing. However I'm seeing mixed reviews on a replacement so wanted to see what the general consensus is from those who have already been down this road. -Theres the new style UJ that moss and rimmer sell - Possibly putting new bushes in the old unit? - Rumor has it that the tr6 one works well? I've no issue with the UJ but have heard mixed reviews. Theres no point crimping on this as it's the only thing between me and a very nasty crash! Jacob
  6. Yes! I'm very pleased so far, few niggles to work out but otherwise spot on touch wood. I'll have to update the build thread, well and finish it really! Well I'm glad everything I have is normal and all good, once it's broken in a bit more I'll put it through the paces again and see if its consistent, dont want to push it hard at the moment. Now I wish I bought a plastic tunnell, I couldn't stick any of my dodo Matt to the inside of the tunnel with it being that rlterrible cardboard type stuff, but that's an easy change down the line when I've financially recovered from this! Jacob
  7. Thanks John, I might have a little check on that, i didn't enjoy putting the tunnel in so I'm sure theres a few gaps as it certainly feels like it! Thanks, Jacob
  8. Ah excellent! Well I'm glad to know it's running how it's supposed to! Just need to stop chasing the numbers! Cheers, Jacob
  9. Haha trying my best, I've done about 50 miles or so now on sort of 30-40mph roads, steady tests, motorway was a short journey to test the car at speed, which went really well actully. Keeping the revs below 3k, especially after the amount the machine shop charged me! Cant afford to trash this engine!
  10. So been out doing some road tests on the newly built engine and... well newly built gt6! Been doing a few runs in around 20-25°c weather and the temp is around 90 running. I've done about 20 miles on the motorway too to test it and it does creep past 90, only to about 92 at 70 or so mph for sustained, dropping in and out of OD. When the car stops it say at some lights on a junction, creeps up to about 95 briefly but stabilised around lower 90s Once the engine stops and is shut off after a long run the temp shoots up to about 110, I did get a load of coolant piddling out but fortunately that was because I over filled the expansion bottle when it was cold, so it overflowed. No dramas really. Am I running at a good temp? Plugs seemed good, nice brown colour and timing is spot on. Runs like a dream. Just wish it didn't get so bloody hot in the car! Also I don't have a standard temp gauge, I have one of the dual oil pressure water temp gauges that use the capillary type for temperature reading. Hence the fear of chasing numbers. Providing all is ok, expect to see the results very shortly!
  11. Thanks Pete, I had a look and I've just about managed it I think. I didn't have 2 dti's so I adapted it slightly but same process. Piston 1 at tdc, followers for no6 cylinder put in. Got the block level with spirit level on it, then put another spirit level on top of my flat metal rule, put the 2 pushrods into the followers and roted the cam until they both sat flush and level with the rule, ensuring they where not sitting wonky in the block too. I think this will work. I'm sure John will chime in and either say no no or that It all ok haha. As for the galley plugs, I removed 3 I think, the large one behind the rear engine plate and a couple along the side, the others wouldn't budge and I dint want to round them. I went through it very thoroughly and along with blasting about 100 psi through the oil ways too with the compressor( somthing I did not have before), twice what the engine operates at such that theres absolutely no chance of any debris lurking around in there.
  12. Hi all, me again! Picked up the engine yesterday and spent a good 4 hours making sure its spotless inside and out! Can't make the same mistake twice, lots of hot jet washing, brake cleaner and gun brushes (thanks to nick for the tips) its absolutely spotless now. I'm currently timing in the cam. I have the standard gt6 mk2 cam, sadly no budget for a racey cam. I also have a duplex kit. The bit where I'm getting stuck is my Haynes manual only says how to time it in with the std single wheels using the Mark's on the wheels and cam. There are none on the duplex ones. I have set no1 to tdc with the dial gauge and will be setting the cam so no1 inlet has max lift. Then I would normally degree the cam, however does the standard one need degreeing ? Or is it just 1 piston tdc and 1 inlet max lift then slap the sprocket and chain on? I've only ever done it by dot to dot or adding degrees on with a cam wheel for an updated cam so a little stuck. Thanks, Jacob
  13. Desperate for the missing parts for my GT6 mk2 doors! Need -front 1/4lights and the brackets for them -Door glass and the regulator channel assembly that "clips on" to the glass -p/s winder mech -D/s handle mech arm -Rear Glass channels Wouldn't turn my nose up either at a second hand pair of black mk1/mk2 door cards and top capping! Also need a r/h rear 1/4 bumper that i can get away with just a clean and not a rechrome to somewhat match the decent ish one i have on the lhs. Thanks again, Jacob
  14. Apologies for the delayed response chaps, been very busy this week. I see once again this forum is such a brilliant community and resource! Thanks very much guys. Ill be mocking something up with the return springs similar to what nick has shown and will be adjusting the mixture as described also to get her going when the engine comes back. Mark thanks very much, I had a look at the video (glad the rattle is sorted now!), I have a good idea how to mock something up. Alec and Martin thanks also, its very relieving to know i can get away with standard needles for now! Ill add a picture of the setup once its mocked up, been trying to hunt some hard to find parts lately like door internals so need to tick that off before I can relax! Jacob
  15. Evening all, My HS6 dolly springconversion for the gt6 was supposed to be all finished, but I negated a few bits and unsure whether it's going to be ok. The first is the throttle spindles have no individual return springs on them. I couldn't find a part diagram with them on. Will I be able to leave as is and get away with a couple of return springs mounted to a bracket on the manifold or somthing? Should be easy to make and weld somthing up. Secondly, I'm not sure on the exact terms here so dont get to angry with me . Picture below: is this acceptable? The gap between the motion lever and the carb bracket seem a bit large? Is it normal? Lastly, needles. Carbs have the std dolly sprint needles, I will double check tomorrow. I was hoping to talk to anyone with a similar setup and gauge what sorts of needles I might get away with just to get it run in. Running a standard gt6 mk2 engine. I'm going to have a headache setting them up as they've been rebuilt so mixture settings are way off. Is there a rule of thumb for how many turns from say from fully tight mixture nut to a rough position to get it started? Thanks again, Jacob
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