Speedysix

There was no way in he'll i was taking any of that interior back out again, I have it perfect now and barely all fits

Back where it belongs! Quite the fight with the tunnel in, was just stopping the box from coming up enough! Thank God it's plastic and not the cardboard one, I think it would have punched through it There really isn't too much more to do until the head is machined, most I can do is fit the filter housing and new filter. The jobs are getting few and fewer! There will be a few puzzles left toward the end, things like finding the missing y piece for my 6 2 1 mild steel manifold, the air box arrangement( make one or modify a standard one to fit hs6), needles, springs, things like that. I honestly can't wait to drive it again

Thanks Nick, yes absolutely, I hope it pays Haha yes yes don't worry, The ports are seared into my brain the amount of time I spent working on that head back in the summer

Thanks John, but I'm a step ahead! No foreign objects are getting into this engine! Sadly I don't have the luxury of a load leveler, it's been on the to buy list for many years now, next time I'll get one. Once the gt6 is done I have my mini and recently purchased mk3 spitfire project to keep me occupied, so a load leveler will definitely come in handy. She's out and on the floor as we speak, I'm trying to do it without opening the garage door and letting all the heat out I aim it'll be in in the next hour or so, everything on the car is all built, the bonnet is in the house so should be a breeze!

I think that will do! Im going to put the engine in! Dizzy gear ill do with the head on, far easier. Head has yet to go to the machine shop so wont be done for 3 weeks yet, so theres no real reason why the engine cant go in now. I'll give the bell housing a clean out and then get cracking. It's always nicer to build it up completely but space is very tight and I've been tripping over my engine stand for long enough! I can then bolt er up, fit the spin on housing and a few other little bits. Need to order a prv plunger which is why it's not fitted.

Thanks John, go there in the end! Yes it's a bit of a pain, the vernier wheels would have been nice but not needed, I'd rather spend the time to get it right than throw more cash into this bottomless pit

all fitted, thank you to all for you help, couldn't do it without you guys Next task will be distributor drive gear and end float, does anyone know why both haynes and factory specify either putting no1 to tdc on compression, (both valves closed, or moving the pulley to 13°btdc, they are diffrent positions?

Haha yes I do, don't worry, I haven't been bolting the timing disc to the cam always best to be sure Sounds simple enough, I just wouldn't have the patience

I have just checked my work, and the number, set no 1 to tdc and set my cam wheel to zero, then rotated watching the dti on no1 inlet to peak lift. Cam wheel is at about 106 107 degrees. Makes up for the advance I added. I'm sure this is perfectly adequate and within tolerance. Now I know for next time it's at 105 atdc

I dread to think how insane it would make me with the head on I'm sure no engine from the factory ever came this accurately times anyway and they ran fine... sometimes. Im sure its acceptable.

Think I've got the b*****d. I'd say thats slap on, and the chan is fitted. The crank is advanced by about 3 degrees and all seems to line up spot on. I think I'm happy..... Jacob

Thanks flatter4, It's very tedious, and hard on the thumbs, pretty sure they both have permanent teeth indentations! Yes I think I'm trying to been to accurate, and forgetting it's a triumph engine, not a space shuttle component! I started from scratch today, set no 1 to tdc, reset my dtis to zero on no6, rotated can until equal lift. This time I degreed the cam atdc (clockwise from the front) by about 2-3 degrees. Now after trying the 4 diffent holes, the only place it's happy sets the dti's 0.07mm appart. I want to get this right, but at the same time I'm loosing the will to live the amount of times I'm doing this

Chain nearly fitted, just fettling around with the numbers. I had both valves at the overlap point, then when I put the gear and chain on with bolts, both DTI's change by Equal amounts opposed. So the exhaust dropped by 0.075mm and the inlet increased by 0.09mm, I'm sure we can ignore the 0.015 diffrence as the gauges not being bang on zero, so equal change. I assume this is OK?

Edit to that last bit, as I can't edit my own posts? I meant to say leave the pointer at zero then rotate no1 to tdc and no1 inlet at full lift and it should be at 105 atdc.

So after waiting all day for Mr amazon to deliver the parcel, delivery at 1400, delayed to 1500, delayed to 1545... eventually it turned up. I'd put it down to the weather but Sadly our inch and a half of sno disappeared over night, so sad the gt6 wasn't mobile otherwise I'd have been out having some fun I think Anyway, very fiddly to setup: engine set to no1 @TDC. Then after spending 10 minutes trying to position the dti stands, pushrods and followers inserted for no6. I then set the them when there was zero lift on both inlet and exhaust, ensuring to push down on the follower before zeroing both DTI's. I then begin rotating the cam slowly until the exhaust begins to lift, counting the number of passes on the gauge. Full lift is about 6.3mm, so 6.3 full revolutions on the gauge. I then continue to rotate the cam and watch the numbers decrease, as this is happening the inlet on no6 begins to lift, counting down until exhaust has 2 revolutions to go, the inlet has just completed one revolution, they end up meeting at exactly 1.51mm, the overlap point when both valves achieve the same lift. I will them fit the sprocket and chain. For some reason I just have the number 105atdc in my head, so for future I want to check if this is right. So after I install the chain I'm going to move my degree wheel to 105atdc on the crank. As the cam should be bang on in the right spot I'm going to rotate until no1 inlet is at full lift and no1 is at tdc, and my degree wheel should be on 105atdc. This is just so that in future I have the magic number, of which is pretty confident is 105atdc. Feel free to chime in here if this is all rubbish Jacob