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Speedysix

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  1. Desperate for the missing parts for my GT6 mk2 doors! Need -front 1/4lights and the brackets for them -Door glass and the regulator channel assembly that "clips on" to the glass -p/s winder mech -D/s handle mech arm -Rear Glass channels Wouldn't turn my nose up either at a second hand pair of black mk1/mk2 door cards and top capping! Also need a r/h rear 1/4 bumper that i can get away with just a clean and not a rechrome to somewhat match the decent ish one i have on the lhs. Thanks again, Jacob
  2. Apologies for the delayed response chaps, been very busy this week. I see once again this forum is such a brilliant community and resource! Thanks very much guys. Ill be mocking something up with the return springs similar to what nick has shown and will be adjusting the mixture as described also to get her going when the engine comes back. Mark thanks very much, I had a look at the video (glad the rattle is sorted now!), I have a good idea how to mock something up. Alec and Martin thanks also, its very relieving to know i can get away with standard needles for now! Ill add a pi
  3. Evening all, My HS6 dolly springconversion for the gt6 was supposed to be all finished, but I negated a few bits and unsure whether it's going to be ok. The first is the throttle spindles have no individual return springs on them. I couldn't find a part diagram with them on. Will I be able to leave as is and get away with a couple of return springs mounted to a bracket on the manifold or somthing? Should be easy to make and weld somthing up. Secondly, I'm not sure on the exact terms here so dont get to angry with me . Picture below: is this acceptable? The gap between the
  4. Yes that seemed ridiculous to me to be honest, they would clean it after machining regardless anyway so before it goes anywhere I'll clean the exterior of the block ready for painting when it comes back and put some citric acid or somthing in the water jacket and jet wash it all off. Definitely not spending that. I'll have a look cheers Nick, also the oil plugs, they have the Allen key type heads, are they tricky to get out?
  5. Ok so I just had a reply from Classic and modern, they quoted 220 for rebore, 200 for pistons, 180 for regrind, or 80 for check polish and clean, 26 for mains, 26 for big end bearings, 5 for thrust and the one that surprised me the most, 200 for dipping and cleaning and crack testing the block! The numbers seem ok ish, but regardless this is still about a 1k setback, considering I need to get all new gaskets, oil, guides, springs etc. Also upon looking at the head, only one of the valves had a double spring, which is really weird, as they should all have double springs?
  6. They made me do much more than shudder! But thank you, best of luck on the build. Ok that doesn't sound too bad
  7. Tim, Well that's proof that the work they did was top quality as you're one really pulls! Excellent stuff. Tim also do you happen to know what needles you're running in your carbs? I dont know a good starting point as Roy's got them but has a 2.5. I did whack an email over but no worries, I just need to find some return springs for the spindles too, as they just flop about currently!
  8. Ah that sounds like a nice little find, thank you for the offer. That's the one thing I do have, modified my manifold to take dolly sprint hs6 carbs all rebuilt, I also have the stromberg setup that came with the mk2 engine that I'm trying to flog too haha. But blimey, triple webber's? They must sound amazing
  9. That's very good to hear, +2 at the moment for C&M, I'll definitely be giving them a call or an email to get a rough idea. I will not be taking any chances next time so ill be damn sure to be more thorough than ever! That's very good of you thank you, ill hopefully not be needing too much but we'll see what happens when I speak to the machine shop. Its good to know there's a few more GT6 owners in the south!
  10. Yep, I think ill be sure not to shortcut things next time, I've definitely learned my lesson!, Some of the gunk or bits of the shells also made their way up to the cam too, and did some damage to that! Id began to question too whether I want this high compression fast road engine too, but id just had enough of that engine but of course when i sold it i was very clear about the issues and the guys didn't seem to mind, id also question the guys work who had it machined in the first place. Going back to a standard ish engine will be alright for me for the time being, maybe a little down the
  11. Yep those pics are from the old engine, not the one I just bought. I did ensure it was completely clean when assembling the old engine but I think it might have ben something in the oil ways of the block or the crank from when the guy I bought it off had it machined, he assured me the work was perfect so I saw no reason at the time to take it all apart. That's whole engine bock is gone now, but I kept all my bits from it like new duplex set, billet sealing block etc. Ok so rebore with oversize pistons, I'm guessing the con rods can be used if they're ok still? Is that what usually happens
  12. I'm In Basingstoke. That doesn't sound too bad tbh, Its helps that they're local ish too so might be worth a call or an email etc
  13. Afternoon All, So After many months my GT6 went for its first start up the other week when disaster struck, turning it over initially to get oil pressure went perfectly and on attempting fire up after a little bit the engine completely locked. rock solid. To cut a very painful and long story short, this picture should summarise. the engine was perfect and I still have no culprit as to what caused it, I've spent days trying to find several theories. Anyway that engine suffered from a demonic curse and was not the original engine regardless, so I either had to sell it or call an exorcist, t
  14. So finally sorted the gt6 to the point where I have a radiator, the last piece before startup. However on attaching the top large diameter hose, it's too short, it connects over both the rad and thermostat housing but only by a few mm. This is concerning and my fan to radiator distance seems a little much. I made the brackets for the radiator on the chassis from scratch from a few rough rulered dimensions from someone on fb, so I could have put them too far forward, which would explain it. Cant use the reference points in my factory manual because I cant see them with the turrets in
  15. All sorted hopefully, just done the clearances and checked through them a couple of times. It's so nice only needing one feeler gauge! I'll be putting oil in later on and doing a compression test! Getting closer and closer to engine start! Thanks once again for all the help Jacob
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