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  1. General Chit Chat

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    2. Welcome and News

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    3. General Discussions on anything

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    4. The Coventry Inn

      Think of it as your digital pub.  Be warned, it has an Aussie barman...

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    5. Members Cars and Project threads

      Post pics of your car here, also make a thread and show us how you are doing with upgrades and repairs etc!

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    6. Ranting Arena

      Anything go's in here so please feel free to rant and rave about anything within reason....
      Parental Advisory maybe required.

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    7. Alternative Hobbies

      Board for non-car related hobbies, sports etc.

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    8. Events and Motorsports

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    9. Forum Queries and Suggestions

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      Input welcomed from members.

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  2. Technical discussion boards

    1. General Technical Discussions

      Can't work out where to post? Try here.
      Talk about anything technical, any subject.

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    2. General Engineering / Workshop Discussions

      Engineering or Workshop Questions, tools etc.

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    3. Engine and Ancillary talk

      Talk about anything related to engines or engine ancillaries or engine swaps.

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    4. Carburettors

      Ask any resident gurus about ANY carb questions.
      Any car, any fitment, don't be shy.

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    5. 1.5k
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    6. Ignition, ECU and Fuel Injection

      Distributers, Megajolt, aftermarket injection etc

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    8. Drivetrain

      Gearboxes, Diffs, Propshafts and the likes.

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    9. Suspension, Handling, Tyres and Brakes

      Want your car to handle, corner and stop?

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    10. Interchangeable Parts

      Post any interchangeable parts here.

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    11. General TrackDay and Race Prep

      Discuss GENERAL track prep here

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    12. Technical Articles & Reviews

      My personal area.
      You may submit your own tech articles.
      Email them to me!

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    13. Triumph Small Chassis Archive

      The best posts from the small chassis section from the past.
      Read Only

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  3. General Car Discussions

    1. Triumph Spitfire / GT6 / Herald / Vitesse

      Talk about your small chassis triumph

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    2. Triumph TR Series

      Talk about your TR Series Triumph

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    3. All Other Triumphs

      TR2-8, Saloons, Dolomites.
      Standard, Fast Road, Race.

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    4. General BMC car chat

      Standard, Fast Road, Race. All welcome.

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    5. K Series Specials

      Rover K Series powered road rockets

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    6. Lotus, Caterham, Marcos, Morgan etc

      Chat about any of the main "small company" road rockets. ALL cars welcomed.

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    7. Other Marques

      Other cars that aren't Triumphs?!

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    8. Modern Cars

      Talk about your modern hack...

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  4. Trading Area

    1. WANTED OR SALE. Cars, Parts and Spares

      List any Cars, Parts and Spares for sale or wanted.
      FOR FREE (unless trade). READ the RULES first.

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    2. Links to Ebay or Anywhere

      See something cool for sale?
      List it here. Also link your Ebay items.

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  • Recent Posts

    • Yep. And the welds haven't even stuck as they're tiny little tack welds trying to stick to a vice 🙃 Helicoils are a good idea. First job will be to try and extract them to see what the threads are like. The main issue is that the heads appear to have mostly departed company with the shank, meaning there's nothing to turn them by. Not terribly difficult to sort, but it's somewhere in the bottom third of a long to do list at the moment...
    • No need whatsoever for a welder anywhere near the vice. 
    • It is also possible to sort the screws if the threads are completely gone, I fixed mine with helicoils. https://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk/516-x-18-bsw-thread-repair-kit.html Phil
    • Thank you, Biturbo!    Certainly, a hand held die grinder can act homicidally, so that the minutiae of workshop practice are a lesser concern.    It seems to me that a more human reason explains the difference when it cuts nicely on one side of a hole, but climbs out, or cuts in the wrong direction on the other, and it's our (my) muscles.    The hand and wrist is a complex tool, designed for grasping a tree branch and adapted to hold tools in a wide range of positions, but not very rigidly.    The reaction to the cutting action of the grinder comes in various directions, some of which are not those where the hand/wrist's strength is greatest.     So when I find this happening, I change my grip- sometimes it works! John
    • Nick, do you know what thread side is in the head for the heater valve take off pipe?
    • I must admit on my spitfire (OK, it is "only" 25 years old! 16V so a more modern design) I run 15.5 up to 3500rpm which is 80mph or so in 5th. I have been working on TPS readings, about 15% is where I start getting a bit more serious with the fuelling, setting to 12.5 at 80-100%  When I connected an AFR to my Vitesse, it runs at high 15's at about 60-70mph, I need to have another go at the needles with a file. It doesn't hitch though, nor pink. So who knows if that is OK?
    • Fiddly…. And all the more irritating when you thought you were there already. Still….. perfection has its price 
    • Meh! Taking far longer that it should. I got the pattern made, however plan A didn't work out as I had hoped so this first (yeah, there's more) was scrap. Needed to make another but before I could get that going I needed to order more polyester resin and chopped strand mat and get that delivered, which also took far longer than 'normal' to actually arrive on, I assume, account of Christmas All the stuff here I got another pattern off the mould and started on plan B. Essentially the 'lump' needs to be slightly flatter and slightly longer. But to try and maintain some sort of integrity I am doing it in steps. Here we are mid operation... To make it longer the back part cut off and re-set 5mm back. Middle piece then has a taper slot cut so the peak can be lowered about 5mm. And the front part cut off so it can be adjusted to match the middle bit once that has been set in place. Like I said, meh!  
    • Stoichiometric is for cars with CATs. You’ll probably find you get a much better idle in the high 13s or early 14s, and it will be easier to get it to pick up crisply from idle. Lower cruising speeds (40 to 60) try for late 14s to mid 15s. Higher cruise (60+) more like stoichiometric. Full bore you shouldn’t need less than 12.5. More than that is forced induction territory, more to stop things melting than anything else. 
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