Forums
-
General Chit Chat
-
- 368
- posts
-
Welcome and News
Let us know who you are and give us a link to your site. No linkbacks required i just like to be nosy
- 3.2k
- posts
-
- 34.6k
- posts
-
- 3.8k
- posts
-
- 22.6k
- posts
-
- 12.1k
- posts
-
- 3.3k
- posts
-
- 6k
- posts
-
- 2025 LeJog
- By Sprint95m,
-
- 820
- posts
-
-
Technical discussion boards
-
- 10.2k
- posts
-
- 3.6k
- posts
-
- Tools
- By BiTurbo228,
-
- 11.2k
- posts
-
- 3.2k
- posts
-
- 1.5k
- posts
-
- 7.3k
- posts
-
- 941
- posts
-
- 2.6k
- posts
-
- 6.2k
- posts
-
- 472
- posts
-
- Pistons for TR6
- By TRier,
-
- 547
- posts
-
- WTF?
- By RedRooster,
-
- 90
- posts
-
- 8.6k
- posts
-
-
General Car Discussions
-
- 1.8k
- posts
-
- 1.3k
- posts
-
- 928
- posts
-
- 227
- posts
-
- 4
- posts
-
- 206
- posts
-
- 1.3k
- posts
-
- 1.1k
- posts
-
-
Trading Area
-
- 3.3k
- posts
-
- 3k
- posts
-
- 25
- posts
-
.thumb.jpg.d7cf1326e7c9a4d2aa9e22a6a333c68d.jpg)
-
Forum Statistics
10.3k
Total Topics156.6k
Total Posts
-
Recent Posts
-
I must admit on my spitfire (OK, it is "only" 25 years old! 16V so a more modern design) I run 15.5 up to 3500rpm which is 80mph or so in 5th. I have been working on TPS readings, about 15% is where I start getting a bit more serious with the fuelling, setting to 12.5 at 80-100% When I connected an AFR to my Vitesse, it runs at high 15's at about 60-70mph, I need to have another go at the needles with a file. It doesn't hitch though, nor pink. So who knows if that is OK? -
By Nick Jones · Posted
Fiddly…. And all the more irritating when you thought you were there already. Still….. perfection has its price -
By Escadrille Ecosse · Posted
Meh! Taking far longer that it should. I got the pattern made, however plan A didn't work out as I had hoped so this first (yeah, there's more) was scrap. Needed to make another but before I could get that going I needed to order more polyester resin and chopped strand mat and get that delivered, which also took far longer than 'normal' to actually arrive on, I assume, account of Christmas All the stuff here I got another pattern off the mould and started on plan B. Essentially the 'lump' needs to be slightly flatter and slightly longer. But to try and maintain some sort of integrity I am doing it in steps. Here we are mid operation... To make it longer the back part cut off and re-set 5mm back. Middle piece then has a taper slot cut so the peak can be lowered about 5mm. And the front part cut off so it can be adjusted to match the middle bit once that has been set in place. Like I said, meh! -
-
By Nick Jones · Posted
Stoichiometric is for cars with CATs. You’ll probably find you get a much better idle in the high 13s or early 14s, and it will be easier to get it to pick up crisply from idle. Lower cruising speeds (40 to 60) try for late 14s to mid 15s. Higher cruise (60+) more like stoichiometric. Full bore you shouldn’t need less than 12.5. More than that is forced induction territory, more to stop things melting than anything else. -
By BiTurbo228 · Posted
Useful people! I've got two proper British-made Record vices (a 23 and a monstrous 25), and both have knackered jaws that previous owners have attempted to pigeon-poo weld back on as the screws have given up the ghost. -
By BiTurbo228 · Posted
That'll be to do with the direction you're cutting in. In one direction, the turning of the tool against the work will make it try to 'climb' out. You can control it, but as it generates more force in odd directions you'll need more force to steady it. Check out 'climb milling' for a fairly succinct explanation of it (I think This Old Tony does a video on it). Happens big time with wood routers for some reason. One direction is fine. Go the other direction and the thing will take every possible opportunity to try to kill you 🙃 -
We'll I've metaphorically burned the boats. My carbs have gone off to make another spitfire run better! I'm starting to improve a few of the things I threw together to get it running. I've improved the throttle connection but it's still not briliant. The more I fettle my setup the more I appreciate why others on here have done things the way they have. The car is running well and is improving all the time, but I'm convinved there's 20% or more performance and drivability left to find in the tune. I'm still learning about VE tables, my current thinking is broadly that you want stoiciometric at cruising set points (14.7:1), lean-ish at ilde (15+:1), and rich when accelerating (11-13:1). Accelleration enrichment and fuel cut on decceleration are another set of decisions to make, but the setup I'm currently operating is working ok for now (base accelleration enrichment slope, and an 80% leaning on decceleration, not fuel cut). I'll mess around with fuel cut at a future date. Also I can see why people use idle control valves. -
-
A friend of mine had a similar problem after selling car parts to a gentleman who only paid part of the money and kept ringing and texting my friend but never turning up. My mate finally told the bloke he couldn’t come and get the rest of the parts as he was going away on holiday for 2 weeks. 3 days later the bloke turned up thinking my mate was on holiday and started nosing round the back door when my mate set his Staffie bull terrier on him, that was 4 months ago and no calls texts or visits since
-
-
Topics
-
