JohnD Posted June 15, 2023 Author Share Posted June 15, 2023 Colin, "modifying the internal connections in the switch". That's easy for you to say! Flatter4, Yup fuses, my sketch was just that, not a specification! SofS runs hot on track, and I have just left the rad fan on all the time. I've invested in a 'more-rows' rad this time, and was interested to see if that allowed the fan some time off. I'm not about to monitor coolant temp and fiddle with the fan switch on track. And yes, it only shows that power is on, not fan moving. Rather like the speedo shows you how fast the propshaft is turning, not absolute velocity. Ian, yes, I'd noted that the fan switch would light up if turned off, as the it idled in the airflow. I suppose one could monitor that current instead of prop rotation as a measure of velocity. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted June 15, 2023 Share Posted June 15, 2023 14 minutes ago, JohnD said: Colin, "modifying the internal connections in the switch". That's easy for you to say! Yup. Hence my 'somehow'. But I was answering the question you asked. Basically I don't think you can do what you were originally asking which is to have the LED built into the dash switch operate based on the output of the relay, which is a separate device, without having an external link back that LED. Everything else that has been discussed afterwards ignored your question and assumes a separate LED off the relay supply. Which was specifically excluded from the original design brief . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt64fun Posted June 15, 2023 Share Posted June 15, 2023 11 hours ago, JohnD said: I suppose one could monitor that current instead of prop rotation as a measure of velocity. Probably not very reliable and an unwanted distraction on track. Do you even have a speedo on the race car? Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted June 16, 2023 Share Posted June 16, 2023 10 hours ago, Gt64fun said: Probably not very reliable and an unwanted distraction on track. Do you even have a speedo on the race car? Ian Fair point Ian. Why do you you need any indication at all? That's what the thermostat switch is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt64fun Posted June 16, 2023 Share Posted June 16, 2023 I often turn the fan on manually when approaching a 'delay' situation and the warning light just reminds me to turn it off. The thermostat switch works fine if I don't use the override. It just a 'control thing'. The fan does run on when the engine is off, but sometimes for an embarrassingly long time (without the water circulating), so I find it best to arrive at one's destination in the 'no fan required' part of the cycle. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted June 16, 2023 Author Share Posted June 16, 2023 14 hours ago, Gt64fun said: Do you even have a speedo on the race car? Ian Yes, it does have a speedo, I used to drive it on the road - twice to Le Mans - until recent developments made it less road usable. Anyway, what would I put in that enormous hole in the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt64fun Posted June 16, 2023 Share Posted June 16, 2023 2 minutes ago, JohnD said: Anyway, what would I put in that enormous hole in the dash? Ooooh!...I love a competition. Answers pending. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 On 6/16/2023 at 10:14 AM, Gt64fun said: I often turn the fan on manually when approaching a 'delay' situation and the warning light just reminds me to turn it off. The thermostat switch works fine if I don't use the override. It just a 'control thing'. The fan does run on when the engine is off, but sometimes for an embarrassingly long time (without the water circulating), so I find it best to arrive at one's destination in the 'no fan required' part of the cycle. Ian Fair enough. My OCD obviously resolves itself differently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 (edited) Returning to the original subject, I've repaired the chassis. Thinking on't, I got the message from the Boss at my local bodyshop, that A/ replacement was a better repair than unbending, and B/ really, they didn't want the work. So I set to and DiYed. First, I built my own jig, from an old pallet that would support the front end I had cut off from the old Silverback chassis in my lock-up. It clamps the bumper bar, allowing the part to be rotated or adjusted for height as required and held by tightening the clamp bolts. I plug welded small plates to the open ends of the extensions, to 'key' into those of the chassis rails: After careful adjustment and measurement, using the chassis dimensions chart in the WSM, I welded up the seams: Before getting to this point, I took off the front suspension and steering rack, to avoid heat damage, but I will replace all the wishbone and damper bushes while they are accessible. Have to wait now for them! John Edited July 24, 2023 by JohnD 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Very 'made at the makers' there John. Good job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Great progress John! That's why us Triumph nuts never throw anything away, you never know when you might need the odd chassis part etc. Looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 Thanks! Side issue: Quite a lot of welding there, which I did with the heat set high, for penetration. And my eyes! My eyes! I have a self-darkening welding helmet, which previously has been fine, but now it doesn't seem to go dark enough. After a line of welding, I have a patch of light were the weld pool was in my field of vision. The helmet has a control to set the degree of darkening, but it seems to have no effect. I fear I've had the helmet too long to claim a fault under guarantee. Has anyone else had this problem? What did you do about it? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Welding helmet may need batteries. Yes, they have batteries and are not arc-powered. Typical life 3 - 5 years. The catch is that many, especially at the cheaper end, have the batteries soldered to the board and may even be impossible to open the casing without spoiling it. Alternative is to just buy the actual insert with the workings to fit to the original helmet / and get a decent one which allows battery replacement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 Not for the first time, Nick, you prove that you are without doubt a steely-eyed engineering man! Yes, there is a battery. And yes, it's on the way out, nominal 3V only delivering 2.4V. It's socking big thing as these batteries go, 25 x 4mm, but clearly replacement is indicated. Thank you! I shall replace before I do any more welding - it's not nice or useful to have a blind spot. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 41 minutes ago, JohnD said: Not for the first time, Nick, you prove that you are without doubt a steely-eyed engineering man! Yes, there is a battery. And yes, it's on the way out, nominal 3V only delivering 2.4V. It's socking big thing as these batteries go, 25 x 4mm, but clearly replacement is indicated. Thank you! I shall replace before I do any more welding - it's not nice or useful to have a blind spot. John CR2032 is the common one, though not quite that big? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 This is a "2450". Oh, for days when it was either a PP3 or 9! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 1 hour ago, JohnD said: This is a "2450". Oh, for days when it was either a PP3 or 9! John. If it required a PP9 you would have all the additional cost and complications of the physiotherapy needed for your neck due to the weight of the thing... If we hadn't lived through the change, being presented with a modern battery would verge on Clarke's Third Law. Let alone the liquid crystal automatic screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 Everywhere else that I might normally buy a battery didn't stock them, but Screwfix does, which is logical, Captain, as that's where I bought the welding helmet. Back to work! JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 4 hours ago, JohnD said: This is a "2450". Oh….. not come across before. Everyday’s a school day Glad you are sorted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 29, 2023 Author Share Posted July 29, 2023 (edited) This is for Roger! His recent post about Castles made me ashamed that I hadn't made any more progress towards getting SofS back on track. But I plead Classic Le Mans and subsequent illness (better now!) In mitigation. Below is a pic of the bonnet that Roger gave me, that I have rubbed down through guide coats and filler, then repainted and mounted the frame. Ready to fit, then paint. And a quick coat of a Ford Grey nearly matches the rest of the chassis: G-sons 1&3 here this weekend. We went on a 20K bike ride this PM, they are in bed and I need mine! If they want they can help me fit new trunnion and damper bushes tomorrow, else we'll tour Lancaster Castle. GS 2 loved it last winter, especially the instruments of torture! John Edited July 29, 2023 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted July 29, 2023 Share Posted July 29, 2023 Hello John All looking good and you have done a good job on the bonnet. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 Moving on, but not very quickly - I'm waiting for my local TiG welder to add brackets to the side of the new radiator, as it's not an Triumph design -I've been working out how to wire in the electric fan controller that came with it. It's a simple system: At least it seems simple - when it arrived, the power lead to the switch was wired to the same earth wire as the fan! As I'm an electrical klutz, this threw me for a while, but the above diagram put me right. And it is a 'switch', not like the sensor for the temp gauge, a variable resistor. It switch from 'no circuit' to 'no resistance' at the prescribed temp, so that my klutzy idea to use it instead of the sensor wont work. Then I thought, the water pump housing has two ports where a sensor can be inserted, just below the thermostat housing: But then I found that the switch that can with the fan is too long, when the standard sensor is in place. The switch is 37mm long, while the sensor is 27, a total of 64mm, and the ports are 53mm apart. I fear that neither can be cut down to fit, and that a threaded sleeve to back off either from the other would be beyond my fabrication "skills". I may have to resort to an inserted housing in the Radiator hoses, perhaps either end of the U-hose? Just musing! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted August 5, 2023 Share Posted August 5, 2023 Hello John I could probably make you a sleeve Give the dimensions and I will have a look Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 5, 2023 Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 Gosh, Roger! You are the friend who keeps on giving! It occurs to me that spacing the switch away from the housing could falsify the temperature it was reading? An insert in the hose would be more accurate? John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeTRacted Posted August 5, 2023 Share Posted August 5, 2023 (edited) That is a very long bodied switch John - plenty of shorter alternatives available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=Radiator+Fan+Temperature+Switch+M16&_sacat=0 Edited August 5, 2023 by DeTRacted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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