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Nick Jones

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Everything posted by Nick Jones

  1. A bit belated but Sunday, thanks to the generosity of John D donating his pit crew passes, Chris and I got to go to a race meeting. Travelled up to Thruxton in the GT6 in bright sunshine (was not warm though) and gained entry without question. We then did a couple of laps of the paddock area looking for a certain green Vitesse (which wasn't there because it was already in the assembly area) before parking up and trying again on foot. Didn't take long to track John down - useful things mobile phones! Atmosphere was nicely normal in many respects, though plenty of masks in evidence.
  2. Cracking line from Amit Chaudhuri in the Guardian today. He’s talking about India but..... seems more widely applicable! “there are hardly any leaders in India – there are mostly politicians, and some politicians are more empty, cowardly and shockingly apathetic than others.”
  3. Certainly you can buy a complete working MX5 for the price of those shafts...... ...... though probably not a a great one.
  4. I wouldn’t have thought you’ll need to go to these lengths. It was years ago now, but I swapped my ‘64 1200 Herald to diaphragm clutch in the late 80s. As I recall it was straight forward with not many parts involved. This may help https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/parts-list-to-convert-from-spring-to.1551416/
  5. All true.... but if you want to keep the original setup the original (or original pattern) parts are all available at a fraction of the cost and they do actually work reasonably well. Competition is a fair point but how many now out there racing Spitfires seriously now? I hope he does sell some - he's put the effort in. Maybe now values are climbing....
  6. Confirm the sleeve swap. We have an alloy bell housing on our Spit with a 4 synchros box abd lip seal. Only thing to add (not really relevant to the OP) is that there are three styles of original alloy bell housings with varying degrees of "ribbiness". The oldest are the lightest I think but so light I'd hesitate to use with a powerful engine. Ours is the middle one I think. There is also an aftermarket (Bastuck?) version which can also be used with single rail (and boy does a a 1500 Spitty OD box need the lightening) which is chunkier again - looks like the iron one but in ally.
  7. Yep, should have mentioned, I also bought a kit from Steve and it arrived in four days flat - from Melbourne (Australia). Looks very nicely done and I'm now on the fence as to which car gets it......
  8. Those CDD kits look nice. However, I do wonder how many he will sell at that price, considering you could do a roto-based CV set-up for not alot more.
  9. Like you, I expect it is, though I suspect there might be a bit of machining involved. The other thing though is that I’m pretty sure that I’ve seen them described as too weak even for a 1200? What are you planning?
  10. It’s a combination of things. Modern fuel vapour pressure is higher than back then so boils more easily. Anything that heats the fuel is a problem and the metal pump body, bolted to the hot metal block is one such built in feature, along with the block-hugging pump to carbs pipe work. The pump is a particular problem as the turbulence in it, especially the valves, further promotes boiling and the pump is much less effective at pumping vapour, which also displaces the fuel itself. An electric pump, mounted away from the heat of the engine, and pipes run away (as far as is possible) from t
  11. Don't ever remember having this problem. Dowels should be a transition or light interference fit so, if straight, it should go on with a light tap or two..... Not even sure they all have this - will have to check the single rail 1850 box I have in bits.....
  12. If you have a perfectly good mechanical pump and no issues with fuel vaporisation in hot weather..... why fix what is not broke? However.... if you do have fuel vaporisation problems the pump is quite a likely source of the troubles and an increasingly frequent problem with the repro mechanical pumps is excessive fuel pressure as they are sprung for 5 psi or so for far eastern carbs..... If wanting to go electric, Huco should also be on your list. Inertia switch on your ignition circuit would still have some purpose even without an electric pump but most manage without.
  13. True dat..... They’ve done ok though as many will be well outside their design life now. The related blob of weld is highly suggestive.....
  14. Guides look convincing. I’ll jack the GT6 up and crawl under with a tape measure if no one else pipes up......
  15. Company called Summers Brothers in the USA makes special shafts (or used to). Very expensive. We’re used mainly by the racers who were the ones shedding wheels most often. The Summers Bros ones were claimed in breakable..... inevitably some dedicated person then broke one (Mr Vowel where are you now?). Failures in road cars, especially standard road cars were extremely rare, but have become slightly more commonplace as the parts get older and more used. Typically there is a specific reason (as in your case). New parts are available. Care is needed as quality is.......variable. Roger
  16. Not to belittle your failure, which was undoubtedly more than exciting enough....... Especially for the Honda Jazz driver Usually they break on the other side of the bearing and the wheel comes right off along with the brake drum...... three wheels on your wagon and no brakes...... perfect..... Agree that the tack may well have started the failure though I've also seen it reported that they occasionally break where a groove has been worn by the oil seal lip and acted as stress raiser. The more common outer shaft failure as mentioned above seems to be caused by the rough edges aro
  17. It is. And absolutely necessary as you don’t want to be discovering problems after the paint is on!
  18. Fingers crossed...... At least as described as a set you can complain if they don’t work..... Paddocks generally quite good.
  19. Well, that's a (relatively unusual?)version of the OE one, but IIRC it needs a matching bowl to work which has a tab on it for a tension spring
  20. Yes, we had a very similar problem first with out Spit, which we got around by mixing and matching parts from two different kits, then again with the GT6. That time I think we overcame it with a pair of original rings, but both times it was a struggle. Kits sold are not fit for purpose.....
  21. Absolutely. But the asymptomatic, untested cases are how the bloody thing gets everywhere......
  22. Very good going John! Did it need much tweaking? Look forward to seeing you later
  23. Yes, he was a very interesting man. He had a reputation for being "difficult" which isn't a side of him I ever really saw. I think this mainly meant he didn't suffer fools and had a low bullshit tolerance. I also reckon he'd mellowed a bit by the time I met him. Very modest. The past was the past however glorious - he had fun doing it, plus he did like to do things properly and he did like to win, because winning proved you'd done it properly. He was a great expert on forced induction, especially superchargers of the Lysholm variety used with Laminova charge-coolers. We talked about
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