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Mark

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  1. My Dad bought me a Norbar torque wrench when I was 17, that was forty odd years ago, quality tool.
  2. Just to add, these are no good for cutting curves but are great for straight cuts, more in line with a guilotine cut, but I also have a pair of Wiss tin snips for cutting curves and smaller pieces. Wiss tin snips are on a different level to the cheapo ones and in my opinion well worth the extra cost.
  3. The ones I have cut clean and the edges stay flat. I have cut 4ft sheets of mild steel in half no problem, but used it lots lately cutting strips to repair spit floor edges. With practice it's pretty easy to follow a a scribed line to get an acceptable straight edge for a repair.
  4. I use an older version of this Clarke air shears, you lose an approximate 4mm strip of metal each cut, but works great. Still going strong after 15+ years https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cat140-professional-air-shear/
  5. When they go up they really go! Fortunately no one on board, dread to think if it was rush hour.
  6. You put me to shame, respect to both of you! Have a great adventure.
  7. Another nice little cash cow.
  8. Had a Mk3 Cortina catch on fire years ago. 18 years old, belting down the coast in a convoy, stopped at services and a mate said you've got smoke coming from under your bonnet. I was going to leave it to cool but got talked into having a look. As soon as I lifted the bonnet, whoosh instantly up in flames. Took my new sheepskin coat off and threw it over the engine. After the smoke had cleared, I had a closer look. Oil was coming out of the cam cover oil filler cap, and driping onto the exhaust manifold. Each drip would instantly ignite as it hit the exhaust. Made me appreciate how volatile hot oil is. I carry a hand held exstinguisher in the Vitesse, not sure how effective it would be. One advantage of the flip fronts on small chassis triumphs is good access.
  9. Think I copied the link from the wrong image, there are a few before the linked image if you scroll back. Poor TR, but could have been a lot worse.
  10. Just seen some good photos of the day over on Club Triumph https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/gallery/image/1319-castle-combe-may-2022/
  11. Yes please. Sounds like you all had a good time out there. Respect to you all for driving to the circuit, giving them a good thrashing and then driving them back home. Be great to see some photos.
  12. Thanks all. That's good, because that's where I think iam going to end up, based on the best position for the sill. Won't know for sure until I replace the rear wing and door skin.
  13. Hi all Been playing with this for a few days. I've replaced sills, wings and door skins a couple of times before, once on a 1500 Spit about 30 years ago and a mk3 about 15 years ago, but memories have faded. Looking more closely at the original drivers door there is a slight crease in the skin that has bowed the door out slightly at the bottom, which I think is contributing to the overhang of the sill. I repaired the very edge of the floor, along its length. There was some remaining flange left at the very front and rear of the floor pan which I used as a guide. I used a taught piece of string between the remnants as a straight edge to follow. I then welded in the new inner sill and diaphragm. The replacement sills have a bow along the bottom edge. I have seen Spitfires with this bow in the sill when fitted to the car, but think the bottom of the sill should be dead straight, whats your thoughts?. I checked the passenger side with the original sill fitted and although corroded does appear to be pretty straight. Another question. Should the swage line running from the rear wing and across the door line up with the front top part of the sill? Seen this aligning with the bottom of the front wing and between the wing and top of the sill, in various photos.
  14. Hi all Started replacing the sills rear wings door skins on my mk3 Spit. Car still has (had) all original panels, but very rusty so things have moved. Door Gaps are tight, rear lower bottom curve where it follows the sill, gap opening up towards the top of the door. Does anyone know what the original door gap to rear wing should be? Replacement sills have been up in the loft for close to 30 years, bought unused second hand, believe they were Austin Rover supplied, creamy grey in colour, so think they are original pressings. Started on drivers side. First problem, when the sill is self tapped in position, the door is overhanging the sill. Door is following the contour of the original rear wing, and the sill lines up. Dimensions of the original sill and the replacement appear identical so not sure what's going on here? Original door is rusty in places along the bottom edge but the frame is solid and holds its shape. Any thoughts?
  15. Several videos, goes and handles very well. https://youtu.be/Sz0m0gsvquE
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