DeTRacted

If it isn't always happening simultaneously on both sides, surely it is unlikely to be the switch contact - assuming that's common to both circuits ? Is it always simultaneous front and rear on each side ? LEDs take considerably lower current than incandescents so should in theory be less susceptible to series resistance rather than being worse.

WD40 bought out 3-in-1 in 1995, so they have been the same group for a long time now.

As John says, WD40 is now the blanket title for a whole range of different products as well as the original de-watering stuff. I have the original type, switch-cleaner and general lubricant aerosols, all in cans with "WD40" on them. The switch-cleaner has isopropyl alcohol in it, so maybe that is the trigger for needing ID?

No cameras or internet connection in my 8-year-old daily driver. Yet another reason I am never going to buy anything newer - along with other things I don't want, like touch-screen controls, blacked-out windows, 'lane assist' and automatic speed limiting.

Fine as a snowplough....... I thought a Kamm tail had to be at the back.

The post I found is someone trying to fix one, and is in French - whether or not they succeeded is not clear but as you say it's worth a try Nick. Good luck !

Searching on the web gives R45 as a 100 Ohm 3Watt wirewound resistor. Others apparently have had to replace it. Of course if that is open circuit it might have taken other bits with it...........or vice versa of course.

You shouldn't increase the capacitor value arbitrarily as it changes the operating conditions of the motor and can cause it to overheat. To know the right value you need to know a lot more about the motor - It depends whether the capacitor is just a starting one or start-and-run ie. does the motor have a centrifugal switch or is the capacitor in circuit all the time . 60uF sounds as though it might be a start-and-run capacitor; as a rule of thumb a start capacitor would typically be more than double that value for a 3HP motor. Electrolytic capacitors are used for starting alone as they are physically small for a given value, cheaper, and are only passing current for a short time. Start-and-run capacitors are not usually electrolytic since they pass current all the time so need to be more robust and are larger. Metallised paper or Polypropylene types are common for that.

It sounds from your original post that the thing used to work OK without blowing the fuse and without sitting buzzing for a couple of seconds on startup, John. If the fuse-blowing behaviour is new, perhaps something still isn't right - either that new capacitor is faulty or could there be something mechanical stopping the motor from rotating easily?

Not quite right John A single-phase motor actually has two windings because it needs a field which is rotating relative to the rotor in order to start up. The 'run' winding is connected direct to the supply but if this alone is powered at start-up, the magnetic poles are alternating but are always in the same place so there is no force to pull the rotor round and It just sits there buzzing and drawing a large current due to the lack of back-emf. A second 'start' or "auxilliary" winding is connected to the supply through a capacitor. Since current in a capacitor leads applied voltage by 90 degrees it makes a second phase so there are two windings powered about 90 degrees apart and the rotor 'sees' a magnetic pole which is moving around every 1/4 cycle of the supply. The rotor wants to align with the pole so this starts the motor spinning. In some motors when the rotation reaches around 75% of synchronous speed, a centrifugal switch opens and the start winding is no longer powered. Other motors have no switch and so power the start winding all the time at a lower current; this gives lower starting torque but better efficiency when running by providing power-factor correction.

Are you sure the problem is at the steering rack? The TR6 has a rubber UJ in the column which is supposed to be bridged by a wire to provide continuity - is that wire intact? item 67 here: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600179

Be charitable. Probably parked out there so the street sweeper could deal with those leaves........

If it's damp tracking then electronic ignition won't help at all. Since the misfire goes away it probably is just damp which dries up when the engine heat gets to it.

That was intended to be a bit of banter prompted by the tinfoil reference and in the same vein. Obviously it didn't come across that way. Pity.

I think you may have the chin-strap done up too tight - it seems to be interfering with the blood flow to your cerebral region. Are you seriously suggesting that if a neighbouring country ( which has actually signed a treaty guaranteeing your autonomy ) unilaterally annexes part of yours and then tries to take the rest by a sudden military invasion, you should just sit down and negotiate with them? Exactly when has that ploy ever resulted in a satisfactory outcome - one that doesn't result in far worse happening down the line? I suggest you go to (say) Finland, Estonia or Latvia and try telling them your view. Their replies may be enlightening.