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Hello Roger                     All that above my pay scale !! But I have two of your old! boxes one fitted to Spitty(which works perfectly )  the other waiting to fitted in the Vitesse !! (plus a good friend runs one as well!) but if you want me to send it back for the Super upgrade I will and fit it to Spitty for a good testing next year(Spain booked for June and hope to talk Memsahib into a second trip later!! I am a bugger for trying new bits like you do its bit like tweaking engines because you can it's not about the power(to me it's engineering type things Spitty seems to go well and can hold her own if in the right gear at the time(but does not have the flexibility of your sixes so requires skill??Luck? foot down in lower gears then she surprises them! roger

You can use the standard housing if you're running Webers/injection as the connection for the heated manifold is redundant and therefore available for the extra sensor. Use the heater return pipe to the back of the pump housing for the Mk1 Spitfire which only has a single connection at the back of the engine. Helps keep the hose count down!

Aaargh disaster Hamish!!! And when you said Sam Browne I was half expecting on the basis of all the people you seem to know  Nevertheless, bloody well done   

Looking really good, not far now! There's a thermostat housing you can get thats a direct fit without having to tap the hole for the sensor, I cant recall which Triumph it was from (I have 134681 written down somewhere which might be it). I put the gauge sensor in that and the new temp sensor in the water pump housing, so the ECU got an accurate cold reading for warmup enrichment.

Went to the awards dinner last night to pick up my 4th year running 2nd overall glass tankard. Great. From Sam Browne of Ridgard car seats   and my 3 times in 4 years greased weasel ( that is to be cancelled as an award) thus I was going to keep it   AND ITS BEEN LOST 😭  devastated as to me it has become more important than 2nd OA   the fastest accelerating Triumph in the championship  Trying to get over the Trauma as it was a one off bespoke trophy 😭

Not entirely sure who made the inlet manifolds for my Spitfire as they were s/h but I suspect Triumphtune. Had the same issue with fouling the tubular exhaust, which in my case is by Bell. Although in my case the front was the worst. My solution was to grind away a little metal from the inlets where they contacted the exhaust. After checking that there is a fair bit of wall thickness in that area. Because of the geometry it didn't take that much metal removal to get a lot of movement towards the head. I was also concerned about the air box proximity to the underside of the bonnet with the carbs angled upwards although in reality this isn't too much of an issue on the 4 cyclinder cars.  

Not easily.  They clash quite badly at the rear.  Photo above shows the issue.  For record the shims are going to be 7mm at the top and 12mm at the base.  I think that might be overkill, but overall manifold length is not going to be too long so I'm not overly worried.  I suspect it'll add a week or two to the project, but should end up a better job.  Dad's currently repairing a neighbour's grandfather clock, as far as I can tell he's replacing almost every contact point in the thing.  So lots of fine tolerance manufacturing.  The tricky part is persuading him I dont need that level of tolerance!

Can you not just bash some clearance flats on the offending bits of manifold?

Bit more progress over the weekend.  Things are never quite as neat as I'd like them, but I'm already very good at over thinking/complicating things and at some point you just have to get on and this is my price of progress. Anyway.  ECU now has all the connectors and wires needed for injection.  I'll need to upgrade a 2 pin connector to 4 for idle control, and something else if I want more (clutch swith for flat shift and 2 step rev limiter are highly tempting, but will lead to a broken drivetrain).  Loom has been made and wrapped for the injectors & TPS sensor.  Neatening up the rest of the wiring is a little more involved than I'd thought.  I've aspirations to get rid of the cheap halfords colours and replace with the lucas colouring system and mount the relays and fuses better, but that's currently on hold until I've got it running again. The fuel system is now up and running.  It takes up less boot space than I had feared.  The high pressure fuel filter location is what's letting it down.  I can't work out a better place to put it, maybe I'll work it out in the future.  But for now it all works, with no leaks (after redoing the ptfe on one of the filter connectors). The fuel pressure has been set at 43., and injectors tested as working - they seem to atomise the fuel well.  Looking down the runners they runner just turns white! After fighting with the rubber hoses and barbs I can see why AN fittings are so popular.  I've got a number of AN-hose barb fittings so theres an upgrade path to braided ptfe hose should the rubber hoses perish on me. I need to get Dad to make up some wedge shims for the bastuck manifolds to clear my unknown origin stainless tubular exhaust manifold.  This is more complicated than I'd like as the bastuck manifold openings are about 1mm larger diameter, and alligned with the inside faces of the head openings.  They are also definitely not round.  Plan is to sneak up on the correct shape with a file and some elbow grease.  We'll then bond the wedges to the bastuck manifold and possibly even countersink some screws to keep it all as one piece. I need to make som threaded holes in the maifolds for barbs to take vacuum hoses and I still need to mount the vacuum block.  I also need a hole tapping in the water pump housing for the ECU temp sensor, but from that point I think it's basically mechano.  Then it's just fighting with the software...   As always I'm happy for comments, constructive criticism, and happy to explain the thinking on why I've done something a particular way.

I like to dabble in electronics. It started in apprx 1968 and I've never got bored with not having a clue at what I'm doing. I was an engines/Airframe apprentice at BEA but soon found that dabbling in the unknown was fascinating. Some of you may know that I make an Overdrive Logic box for the TR A and J types. In this case logic is a poor name. Anyway it started as a simple 2x relay some wire and a diode (oooh technology) As members reported issues I would improve it to remove any weaknesses. My latest incarnation has a Thyristor ( a sort of solid state SPST relay). and this was used in conjunction with a small power TRansistor to turn on and OFF.  Turning off a Thyristor is not that easy ( honest ) Everything was huncky dory until I found that occasionally the device would not turn off - hmmmm  or perhaps ON. I then replaced the power tranny with a power MosFet. This is like a power TRanny but spelt differently.  It also has some rather miraculous characteristics that I will not bore you with.   This new device worked perfectly - except (oops)  when coming out of OD into another gear it would come back on by itself - aaarrrgghhh I scoured the interweb for an answer on how to turn OFF the Thyristor and kept getting the same answers that were no good for me. So thinking cap on.  With the Thyristor ON and you now disconnect the earthy end of the circuit it turns OFF. If you now reconnect the earthy end it turns back ON - This should not happen.   Basically The Thyristor is ticking over and not fully turned OFF. So when the earth is reconnected it bounces back to life without being told to do so. (little bu99er) What my head scratchjing came up with was to feed a 12V supply into the earthy side of the thyristor via a 1K resistor So now when you go into neutral from OD the earthy wire from the Thyristor jumps to +12v (only 0.012mA going through the resistor) This stops current flowing through the Thryristor because you have the same volts at both ends  of the Thyristor and it turns OFF. A simple little restistor sorted it.  But you won't find it on the InterWeb If any body has one of my boxes (I know of one member) and has any problems then you can exchange it for a super technological marvel I wonder what a normal life is like   Roger