mpbarrett
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About mpbarrett
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The Penzoi was recommended in a mainly US based TR7 group and they claim to have tested it against MTF and found the change was much better with the Penzoil.. So will try it and report back. Mike
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Thats interesting, a few people have also suggested, strongly, Pennzoil Synchromesh oil rather than MTF94 . Not sure yet what's in it at the moment but will drain it and try some of the Pennzoil, I have enough to flush it..... Noticed today that the master cylinder is leaking so that something else to look at... It would have most sensible to have brought an MX5!
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went there last year, worth a visit. The stones are amazing, it was free to visit (I think they are going to charge this year) and you could walk around and touch the stones.
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Now I have sorted the electrics out (at least no more smoke...) I started to use the car and get used to it. Its very comfortable even with the hood down and feels quite modern. It starts well (Lumenition ignition on it, gosh they are expensive) and pulls well, and I am surprised how torquey the engine is (too much time driving the Herald). The gearbox is very notchy until its warm and then the change is quite good. I plan to change the oil as I am not sure what's in it. Lots of discussion about what oil to use... as BL changed from EP90 to ATF. Steering is heavy and the tyres are >9 years old. Brakes work but don't have much feel, the disks look almost new so I have got some Mintex 1144 pads to put in and a change of fluid. Will probably change the tyres to Rainmasters. As the car hasn't been used very much over the last few years there are lots of small jobs to be done. Cosmetically its had a very poor respray but I think its solid (Zieberted from new) but I am taking to my Triumph friendly MOT garage for them to have a look underneath. it is MOT'ed until August. I have fixed the fuel and temperature gauge which werent working (new dash gauges and replaced the mechanical temperature gauge with the correct electrical sensor) . I have regreased the steering rack to see if that would help the steering. Couldnt get the bolt out of the rack to fit a grease nipple, the bolt just turned round so had to take the damper nut out and drill the bolt out. Doesnt look like a normal triumph rack as it has an adjustable part to load the damper. So took it out to remove the bolt. So the nut is a locking nut and the grey part screws in to adjust the load on the damper. The spring looks like its been ground down or someone has lost the original and used whatever they had in the garage! Managed to drill the bolt out without damaging the thread so could put a grease nipple on it and add some grease. What was in the rack was very dry so it really needs stripping and cleaning. No idea how to set it correctly so put it back more or less int he same position and will try it. The side running lights in the boot were exposed so have had a first go at making some 3D printed covers, functional rather than elegant but do protect the connection! So lots of small jobs to be done in the next few weeks (I have a growing list) as its going to the lakes and borders for a run with Triumph friends in mid April! Having a new old car makes me appreciate how sorted my Herald is, but that is due for an MOT next week.... mike
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thats very effective camouflage on the tank. IS the shed full of future projects? If so that a lot of work!
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was this the IMP just appeared on FB.
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I have one very similar to that. Great idea but the controls are a pain badly designed so simple things like changing the trigger level can be difficult. And the battery life is poor when it is off. So when you want to use it you find the battery is flat! Shame because its a nice idea.
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EV charging introduces all sort of new problems. At the moment most electrical demand in houses is intermittent your oven draw 20A until its hot and then regulates the temperature by switching on and off. But charging a car is different as it will be drawing a constant high current for long periods. Even charging a car thru a 13A socket can cause problems as most 13A socket do not like full current for long periods of time in fact there are special 13A socket rated specifically for charging EV cars... As the growth of EV charging grows it will be interesting to see how the infrastructure feeding houses copes. It was all designed (diversity principle) on the assumption that the load would not be constant. It will be ok if you had smart charging controllers.... Smart meter can remotely switch of the supply to a house but thats a bit of a crud control method!
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yes, but not great quality but with decent fuses it should be ok!
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whoops sent that too early and dont seem to be able to edit it...? Maybe time for another donation Anyway brought a new switch to replace the damaged one. had to pull it apart as it had been assembled incorrectly... but all done and everything is working! Just need to make a mount for the fuse box and fit a radio and glove box.... And start to play with it! Mike
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all back together but a lot of work. Lots of strange wires, burnt wires and connections removed. Put everything together then found that the Lights witch had melted when the fault occured so had to replace the swithc with a new. one
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I refer you to King Charles ears, they are Royal ears!
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I have to add my Ferrari story. We used to live above my father TV shop next to a garage in Keston, Kent. the family that ran the garage were into cars in a big way (see pics below) and my father, uncle and grandfather were marshals at Brands hatch. happy memories of Boxing day racing at Brands... One day the was a Ferrari dumped at the garage, the story being that it was being tested by the motoring correspondent of the Daily Telegraph but the car lost the clutch and was left at the garage. The car was a 1959 Ferrari 250 GT Competizione Alloy Berlinett I managed to sit in the car and someone took my photo! I still have the stick out ears! the car was beautiful and I researched the car found that it ended up in the USA. The garage and owners used to close the garage in the evening and then race go carts around the pumps.. At the weekends there friends would meet up at the garage and talk cars... that is the Croydon road just after the junction with Westham road. No traffic and now looks very different now. Happy days! mike
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I had a similar problem with my GT6, convinced myself I had a fuel vaporisation problem. On the 10CR we even bodged a system so we could squirt water on the fuel pump. This went on for over a year. Fitted electrical fuel pump in the boot, rerouted pipes added heat shields and the problem was that I had fitted electronic ignition and forgot to replace the earth wire to the contact base! Most of the time it would earth thru the rotating parts of the vacuum advance but once it got hot it would start to fail. Once you opened the bonnet the temperature of the distributor would drop slightly and it worked perfectly!. Anyone lesson learnt but sometimes its difficult to tell the difference between fuel and ignition problems.
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Yes the alarm is going once I work what its wiring into... Agree its needs relays on the lights...
