Triumph T6 Spitfire Gt Build Chris Sherrington.

[GT6MK3]

Chris,

 

Knowing the swaet and blood you've put into your build, that's terrible.

 

Breath, suck it up, and use the qualities that make you a champion to produce a car that becomes you.

 

C.

[pomwah]

Bugger, had half considered going down your route, the expense of getting all that GRP out to Oz, not to mention the purchase price, was somewhat off-putting. Seeing the mess your car has been left in seals the deal, I wouldn't take the risk of spending that much on a product that may not fit and if the manufacturer can't get it right, well .........

 

I'm sure, given your motivation and attitude, you'll get there in the end. Good luck!

[motov8id]

sorry for the stress. The manufacture has shown his true colors. Only concerner with sales not completed projects.

You will have to add abd subtract grp and bondo to make every thing fit,

A skillled panel beater should be able to finish the body,

[CHRIS211083]

Hi Guys, its been a rough few weeks. The Wife crashed the mini last month and then the spitfire came back not done. However todaywe are off to look at a 911 1985 whale tail to replace the mini. Also the spitfire is fixable so things are looking up. Will start a new thread on the Porsche as im sure you will all be as excited as i am.

 

Chtis.

[GT6Steve]

Let's see....crash the mini, get a 911. Is that the formula? Now I wish I'd have wrecked the 1275 rather than selling it!

[CHRIS211083]

Well Steve, the 911 will have an agreed value and more safety systems. Also you only live once and it's been her dream car for 35 years. So get ready for another thread!!!!

 

Well got nothing done today, breaking the mini into parts is a bit emotional. So as a pick up I had a touch of fun.

 

 

 

 

 

Not everyones taste but I think they will look good.

 

New Door cards just held in place.

 

 

Exhaust placed under car.

 

 

 

Finally had a better look at stuff. Turns out graham spaced one side but not the other bonnet latch.

 

 

 

He also made the door skins too long and I think this is why the door hit the bonnet edge and sill. I'll be shortening these and sliding the bonnet further back to compensate. Also I fixed the airbox panel too high and the idea is to use thin foam instead of a seal to lower and seal the bonnet to the airbox panel. I've also decided that because I was so impressed with the late type plastic mini heater that I will remove the hole unit from the Mini into the spitfire. Very toasty and the hoses from the engine are 15mm as are the heater connections so no need to reduce the hose size. Next job will be engine out and fibre glass the bulkhead and gearbox tunnel properly and remove the Alloy sheet I fixed in place before. Fingers crossed I can get cracking and get this car on the road. Sooner rather than later.

 

Chris.

[triumphcorvair]

Chris I admire your postive attitude through all of this. Like I've always heard if you want something done right do it yourself. Too bad this always seems to happen after the fact.

[CHRIS211083]

Well today was not a bad day, finished training and got a couple of hours work done.

 

Jacked up the car and whipped the wheel off. Wanted to fit the Canleys trunionless uprights, hubs and uprated stub axles. If I fit these then I can fit my new wheels.

 

 

Was getting dark and the original trunion and upright where knackered here is a vid...Whats the reason to change????

 

 

So after a bit of angle grinder action it came off and the new bits went on.

 

 

 

 

Then i went and fitted the hub adapter. Torque setting 128 n/m

 

 

Then I fitted the wheel, whats the torque setting for the wheels??? I noticed the top ball joint rubber boot was split so the wheel will have to come off again to fit that but all done.

 

 

I still need to set the ride height and I will be fitting taller tyres as these are 45's but you get the idea.

 

Before I did this I thought I'd take some under body shots.

 

Here is the easy drain point for the hole coolant system.

 

 

Extra ground clearance so the exhaust can be fitted higher and the car can be lowered further.

 

 

Everything fits correctly and you dont have to move the front cross member as you do on most other engine swaps. The Zetec SE is short, light weight and powerful. It's also cheap to buy.

 

 

Here is another shot of the rad bottom hose pipe, ideal for draining the system without loosing coolant.

 

 

More once it happens, will get better wheel photo's tomorrow.

 

Chris.

[PeteClan]

That hose looks nicely placed to chafe on the chassis member and drain the coolant when it's not required.

 

Pete Richards

[CHRIS211083]

Not touching the chassis mate. Has clearance All round.

 

Chris.

[CHRIS211083]

Well I fitted the other side today so thats the fronts done. I also adjusted the ride height.

 

 

 

 

I then adjusted the ride height.

 

 

 

 

I love the new look of the wheels. Will try to get the rears done for the weekend.

 

Chris.

[CHRIS211083]

Crappy day today, raining heavy and a bit windy. The efi system on the mini sold so today is engine out day so I can remove and post the EFI system. However as I eat my lunch I can't help but look through the window.

 

 

More when it happens.

[CHRIS211083]

Wanted to put Spiddies chin back on today. So after a quick trial fit I decided to mod the mounting brackets and then cut the panel. Here is a pic of what I did.

 

 

I then spent ages messing round with it and trying to adjust it but the thing wouldn't fit right so I started bending brackets etc. And on it went.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final fitting and end brackets still need to be made but my bigger problem is the bonnet. It's not long enough!!!!

 

 

Another thing i did before it got too dark to work was remove the lip from the bulkhead where the seal goes. Graham said I had mounted it too high however I ground it down only to find the height and alighnment became corrected. I'll put a foam seal on here as it will sit lower. Unfortunately I will have to add some length to the bonnet as it currently lines up with the arches and the front valance ok so it's just the length thats out.

 

More when it happens.

 

Chris.

[Nick Jones]

Why can't you just move the bonnet back a bit?

 

Nick

[CHRIS211083]

If I move the bonnet back to close that gap then the front valance wont fit and the wheel arches wont line up. I can get the arches and the valance to line up as it is now. However even in this position the front valance is at it's most rearward position.

 

Chris.

[JMH]

Are gaps at door/bonnet parallel all way up? If not, it could improwe if you lifted the bonnet at the front?

[CHRIS211083]

The gaps at the front are correct, the wheel arches are correct and the bonnet to top of sill are lined up correct so the only thing that is out is the length of the bonnet. Pictures speak 1000 words.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The gap is actually 3/4 inch not one inch I just measured it.

 

Only other option would be to try a metal front valance to see if the fibreglass one is limiting the movement rearward as they have to be thicker. I'll look at the price for a new one. I'll also order some new mounting brackets. I modified mine as they were too thin and were cracking. Didn't realise rimmers do them new so will order a pair as well as the metal front valance to try. Only problem with moving the bonnet back if the metal front valance gives more rearward movement is the arches will not be lined up perfectly.

 

What is an exceptable gap on these panels on the bonnet to bulkhead and bonnet to door gap???

 

Chris.

Edited September 19, 2013 by CHRIS211083

[CHRIS211083]

I've just spoken with Ian at Chic Doig's place. Apparently the thing that has to line up is the bonnet rear edge to the bulkhead. This is the first thing to do and it needs to be a 5mm gap. Second point is the rear of the arches doesn't line up perfect, they never did. He also thinks that my problem is the thickness of the front valance. He says to shave the fibreglass to get it to fit correctly. So I'll order the new mounting brackets and then try shaving the rear of the valance.

 

Chris.

[JMH]

Hi Chris,

Looking at the two last pictures, I would expect the door to be about right - might be a little to much forward but difficult to see from picture (judging at the edge of the bulkhead top panel /upper front door corner) - and could go further inn. Is it possible to mount doors further back?

 

But it looks like the bonnet could go a little more backwards (upper sill closing panel at door) and that it should be lifted at the front (it's not parallel against door and against sill top) - but could be due to the picture, sorry.

 

I would wait with the front valance until the rest is lined up; as Chic Doig recommend. But I rarely see cars with only 5mm at the rear edge to the bulkhead/bonnet; often due to body-sag although I know this is not the question here

Edited September 19, 2013 by JMH

[PeteClan]

From the photo's, particularly the last one, the wheel is too far towards the back of the arch along with the overlarge gap between the rear of the bonnet and the main body. Therefore, I'd move the bonnet back to get a more acceptable gap and assist in correctly positioning the wheel in the arch. Although it souns as the valance need work to then make it fit it will be easier than attempting to lengthen the bonnet.

 

Pete Richards

[CHRIS211083]

Hi Pete, the wheels are not straight in that photo. I've also not taken into account that the arch spats bring the sill further forward so the bonnet does need to go back. Lots of work and very little time. Very busy this weekend so don't know if I'll get to it.

 

Chris.

[CHRIS211083]

Wanted to fit the wheels to the rear of the car today. So I got out the hub puller and popped off the rear hubs.

 

 

Both hubs came off with the help of a pipe wrench.

 

 

Unfortunately, one of the hubs bent as one of the old studs had worn threads. Once the pressure was applied with the puller it warped the hub before the taper let go. So a quick trip to Chic Doigs found me another one. I also picked up two new drums to replace the old ones which were corroded on the friction surface.

 

 

I also needed to remove 5 threads(same as the front studs) from the freelander studs to get them to fit inside the hub adaptors.

 

 

 

Here is the hubs fitted.

 

 

And the wheels on.

 

 

 

 

 

Really happy with the result and love the look. Also the wheels really look at home and have the correct offset with the adapters.

 

 

Wheel alignment needs sorting but everything looks good. I also started to fit the Pacesetter Exhaust but ran out of light.

 

Will let you know more when it happens.

 

Chris.

[spitfire6]

Looks nice Chris.

 

[pomwah]

Going strong big man.

[CHRIS211083]

Connected the two earth cables for the horn today. Still didn't work but its something.

 

 

 

Also did final fitting of the Monza tail pipes and mid section. I then used some flexible exhaust pipe to connect it to the motor. Sounded nice really nice.

 

 

Had enough so came in before the light started to fade.

 

Chris.