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Everything posted by JMH

  1. Fine reporting and great pics. Thank you for taking the time! /Jens, Copenhagen :-)
  2. Very nice... :-) Read somewhere SNCF/Spanish Railway authorities where going to reopen the line?
  3. In theory straight, but in practice.... :-) Don't belive the jig used did have a griep on the lower flange.
  4. Richard - shouldn't be a problem as the sill strengthener will cover outer sill part. You can allways add a small strip of metal on the floor pan later. Should add that I have taken (or people have send me) measurements of how the outer sill to lower edge is forming along the lower inside edge on the body tub on original 'ontouched' cars - often there will be only 1/2 inch at the front, 3/4 at the middle (see drawing) - and - from memmory - more at the back (at the dog leg). So not always a straight line :-)
  5. How is the condition of the sill strengthener - and lower edge of the floor panel? When the door is overhanging the sill top, its often due to the position of the lower joint - as Nick states.
  6. Last weekend here in Denmark... :-( https://jv.dk/artikel/dårlig-afslutning-på-weekenden-veteranbil-opslugt-af-flammer-2022-3-20 No info about why.
  7. That part is a tricky place to do repairs - on early cars (mk 1-3) its a rust-trap due to the front screen boltet through. Re. the rear wing: I have only done body work on early cars, but dog-leg part often need some 'persuasion' to get right. Its possible to move the lower joint (floor) a few mm. both ways. Looking good btw. :-)
  8. Couldn't find a better one (...) still wonder why I did sell the car.
  9. Agree with Nick - do one side and you can always take measures of the other. And put the bonnet on too, as the entire bulkhead panel tends to drop back - you can still adjust this on the doors, but migt end up in a huge gap at the top / bonnet gap.
  10. Beware! I believe it needs about 19 mm from the inner edge - if not, you risk having the door sticking out, when you put on the door trim and seals :-)
  11. Lots of different suppliers of repro sill closing panels - your nos one is an early one - later cars had a small bend half way down. If you spot weld it before you fit the new outer sill, you must be sure the curvaton is correct (guess it was done in a jig at the factory). Would fit sill first and mig-weld.
  12. I am - still - here :-) Most common failure is due to trying to fit the outer sill too far up - especially if new (repro) floor panels are welded in too. Reason is the new floorpanels does not have the correct flange size. Best way of dealing with sills - and poor panel gaps - on these cars - are by starting with the best (original) doors you can find, and yes: Repro inner sills not that perfect, though not the biggest issue if trying to get a good result :-)
  13. Same here: One unmolested mk 3 door (was removed many years ago from a wrecked car: about 19 mm but varies between 19 and 20, and about 21-22 at the slotted part in both ends. Same on a NOS mk 3 door: 19 mm and 21-22 at the ends.
  14. From memory 19 mm (and slottet in both ends) - have a mk 3 nos door - will see if its different from Nick's :-)
  15. Had the same problem with an old Mazda once. Always funny standing at the petrol station filling up my car while - at the same time - draining lots of water out from the spare wheel well by removing a grommet there. When someone was pointing out the fuel was running out, I always just told it was normal on a Mazda :-)
  16. JMH


    No it's not. But Swedes have greatly adapted their behavior after covid, according to surveys from Novus: https://novus.se/novus-coronastatus/ (sorry, only in Swedish)
  17. JMH


    They stay home anyway - same result. And - remember its a huge country for 10 mio, so low population density esp. up north.
  18. Your panel is an early spitfire one (until 1970), so tooling might have been scrapped long before 1979.
  19. I did find live wires (no insulation!) direct under the wall paper in my old Copenhagen-flat. Some *** wanted a power outlet on the bathroom. Though most of the wiring was from 1920's, this 'addition' was quite new.
  20. Part no 903599 - and then the trim (glazing part): 613955 ? From my spare parts catalogue, 3. edition (all mk 3 spitfires)
  21. I have had several of those handles in my hands, all had the key-number stamped on the rod. I even managed to get a blank cut by asking a locksmith with the number only. He had them in the computer (in Denmark...) . I have only seen them with FS keys.
  22. Do you have a picture ? Agree with above! Then: I would open up the outrigger where its welded to the mail rail (underside) - although looking good from outside, I have never seen one without rust there.
  23. Probably all made by Taylor Pressform https://www.taylorpressform.co.uk/ Might even do the Heritage panels for BMH with BMH's own tooling... Have worked with both OE and Steel Craft outer sills, always go for OE...
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