Jump to content

JMH

Supporter!
  • Posts

    499
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

JMH's Achievements

Fast Driver!

Fast Driver! (6/10)

  1. Fine reporting and great pics. Thank you for taking the time! /Jens, Copenhagen :-)
  2. Very nice... :-) Read somewhere SNCF/Spanish Railway authorities where going to reopen the line?
  3. In theory straight, but in practice.... :-) Don't belive the jig used did have a griep on the lower flange.
  4. Richard - shouldn't be a problem as the sill strengthener will cover outer sill part. You can allways add a small strip of metal on the floor pan later. Should add that I have taken (or people have send me) measurements of how the outer sill to lower edge is forming along the lower inside edge on the body tub on original 'ontouched' cars - often there will be only 1/2 inch at the front, 3/4 at the middle (see drawing) - and - from memmory - more at the back (at the dog leg). So not always a straight line :-)
  5. How is the condition of the sill strengthener - and lower edge of the floor panel? When the door is overhanging the sill top, its often due to the position of the lower joint - as Nick states.
  6. Last weekend here in Denmark... :-( https://jv.dk/artikel/dårlig-afslutning-på-weekenden-veteranbil-opslugt-af-flammer-2022-3-20 No info about why.
  7. That part is a tricky place to do repairs - on early cars (mk 1-3) its a rust-trap due to the front screen boltet through. Re. the rear wing: I have only done body work on early cars, but dog-leg part often need some 'persuasion' to get right. Its possible to move the lower joint (floor) a few mm. both ways. Looking good btw. :-)
  8. Couldn't find a better one (...) still wonder why I did sell the car.
  9. Agree with Nick - do one side and you can always take measures of the other. And put the bonnet on too, as the entire bulkhead panel tends to drop back - you can still adjust this on the doors, but migt end up in a huge gap at the top / bonnet gap.
  10. Beware! I believe it needs about 19 mm from the inner edge - if not, you risk having the door sticking out, when you put on the door trim and seals :-)
  11. Lots of different suppliers of repro sill closing panels - your nos one is an early one - later cars had a small bend half way down. If you spot weld it before you fit the new outer sill, you must be sure the curvaton is correct (guess it was done in a jig at the factory). Would fit sill first and mig-weld.
  12. I am - still - here :-) Most common failure is due to trying to fit the outer sill too far up - especially if new (repro) floor panels are welded in too. Reason is the new floorpanels does not have the correct flange size. Best way of dealing with sills - and poor panel gaps - on these cars - are by starting with the best (original) doors you can find, and yes: Repro inner sills not that perfect, though not the biggest issue if trying to get a good result :-)
  13. Same here: One unmolested mk 3 door (was removed many years ago from a wrecked car: about 19 mm but varies between 19 and 20, and about 21-22 at the slotted part in both ends. Same on a NOS mk 3 door: 19 mm and 21-22 at the ends.
×
×
  • Create New...