Jump to content

Triumph T6 Spitfire Gt Build Chris Sherrington.


Recommended Posts

Today I changed the IAT sensor and tidied up the engine wiring harness. I also fitted the correct coolant temperature sensor connector and connected the battery and turned the engine over with the starter motor. No bad noises yet so that is promising. Only things stopping me running the engine are coolant, ignition coil mounting bracket and car wiring.

 

Getting there.

 

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Small bit more progress today, fitted the heater hose coolant plumbing. Only thing left to do on the coolant system side is the header tank. I then started to look at the wiring again and it did my head in. Will need a whole day to sort it out properly, some wires just don't seem to sit the same way as before.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I had another think about the new wiring loom I've part fitted to the car. The rear half is fine but in the rush to make the RBRR the standard loom is just routed wrong for the New T6 and there are too many redundant wires. The headlamps are going to be relay fed as are many other items and so I think the best way to tackle this is to open up the loom and remove or shorten the bits that are not needed. This will take longer but will be the better long term option. I think I'll do this at the weekend if the weathers ok.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small bit more progress today, fitted the heater hose coolant plumbing. Only thing left to do on the coolant system side is the header tank. I then started to look at the wiring again and it did my head in. Will need a whole day to sort it out properly, some wires just don't seem to sit the same way as before.

 

Chris.

 

This header tank?

 

post-813-0-51527300-1359124969_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did most of the wiring today, Not finished it but I'm now one step closer. I also changed my mind about opening up the new loom and have just cut out the wires that are not needed and extended the wires that needed it. Will be calling Parklane classics on Monday to order the dash top cover kit. I'm also leaning towards buying the Monza Pacesetter exhaust. I bought the twin silencer tips thinking I'd make something similar but I'm now leaning back towards the idea of only needing to get the link pipe. Shouldn't be long till the first start up now.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Managed a wee bit today. I fitted the starter Solenoid and wired it up, I also hooked up the battery and connected a few earths. I also as can be see in the picture, created a earthing point inside the car using a stainless steel bolt connected to the spare earth lead that is usually connected to the body. This will allow easy fault finding and a desent point to connect all the earths too.

 

20130129_152230.jpg

 

I then mounted the main fuse box for the car followed by the headlamp relays and the headlamp fuse box.

 

20130129_152157.jpg

 

I then connected the headlamp relays signal power to the coloumn switches and the main power from the relays back to the current loom that connects to the head lamps. This way there is no need to alter the loom and the relays are kept inside.

 

Next job is to hook up the starter earth and test the starter circuit. Then I'll attach the rest of the car earths and finally connect the new gauges and wire up the fuel pump to the ECU. Then we will see if it starts. More when it happens.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it snowed, hailed, and then pissed it down. So after recovering my strength after training I decided I wanted to connect the gauges up to power and create some light in the darkness of failing to make the RBRR2012.

 

20130213_173607_zps596f57e0.jpg

 

It's hard to get a picture of the lights as the camera wants to flash so I took some more. Am so chuffed with these gauges. The hole lot connects with four wires. Earth, switched 12v,lighting 12v and constant 12v for the speedo. Next job is to connect the sensor ends up to their specific items. These are so easy to fit and get rid of the 10v standard gauges. This kit I bought also comes with a lighting dim switch so the best lighting brightness can be selected.

 

20130213_173710_zpscaa0c40f.jpg

 

20130213_173702_zpsd2ce4ecd.jpg

 

Will let you know more when it happens.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got home after training and did some shuffling on the bulkhead. Here is the finished arrangement.

 

20130215_175839_zps760f0990.jpg

 

I still have a couple of brackets to make but we are getting there. I've got more Earth wiring and the alternator wiring to do tomorrow and then I'll look at connecting the gauges to their sensors. Finally I hope to fill the coolant system and maybe... Just maybe start the engine.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok guys im struggling with the wiring on the alternator.

 

20130216_155351_zpsdf16f1e5.jpg

 

This is what i have. CHARGE comes from a massive wire above this connector. Then there are three wires. Ive connected red to the battery as the ford focus manual says but this leaves grey (1)and blue(2). One is a voltage sence(switched ignition) and the other is to the ignition warning lamp. Currently blue is switched and grey is lamp however.... is the lamp powered or does it go to earth. Ive tried both configs but neither give me what im after. Ive even tried another alternator but no luck. Any help much appreciated. Very frustrating as this is all thats stopping me starting the engine.

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris,

 

I think you have a bit of a problem here. Some googling suggests that most (if not all) Foci have "smart charge" alternators fitted and as well as their own internal default regulator they are externally controlled by the engine ECU using the three wires in your picture. There is no ignition light connection as such.

 

I've added some links below. Not sure how much help they are. Looks like if you just leave the 3 wires disconnected then it will run in default (limp home) mode at 13.5v. Whether this is safe long term is not really clear. I don't think it is possible to connect a conventional ignition light to this alternator - you could always fit a voltmeter.

 

I must admit that in spite of having had a Focus in the family for 3 years I was unaware of this system. I was happier not knowing TBH - looks like considerable extra complexity for fairly minimal gain!!

 

Not sure how easy it would be to find an alternative conventional alternator with the same mechanical fitment - but that would be the ideal long-term answer.

 

http://www.petercoop...rt_charging.htm

http://askpete-hella...rol-units-work/

 

Cheers

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so today was the big day, i wanted to start the engine on the T6 after a full days wiring yesterday Almost everything is connected. I've disconnected the alternator 3 pin plug and all seems fine once the engine finally started. I think it took a while to get the air out of the system but after that it starts straight away. First problem is the idle speed is too low, next the tacho wouldn't work but we got there in the end. Here is the first video of me trying to start it. These things take so long to upload. I have two more to add once they are ready.

 

th_20130217_134956_zps3b9edc75.jpg

 

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...