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Triumph T6 Spitfire Gt Build Chris Sherrington.


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It would not be a problem. All the internals are removed so I think I would be ok up to 80kg. However the bikes handling would suffer severely. Today is put the engine back together day and tie up loose ends. The crank should arrive to my home today and I'll be waiting. Then after that I'll head to Chic Doigs to get the Main and big ends.

 

I have a question........ I had some caliper paint (blue same as the mini) and mixed the paint and the hardener. I then applied it to the new calipers but didn't use all of it. I want to maybe use this again, will it keep with the lid sealed????

 

Chris.

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SH*T SH*T SH*T SH*T. I did the polybush kit today and changed the brake calipers but when it came to the engine.......The main bearings are all for the block and not for the caps!!!!!!!

 

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Am so annoyed. Here are some more photo's of my day.

 

Poly's

 

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Calipers

 

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Engine plate and cover painted.

 

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Exhaust de-rusted and painted.

 

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Old fuel tank out.

 

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Space left behind.

 

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New EFI/MPI fuel tank in.

 

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I also fitted the new fuel feed pipe to the car.

 

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I used 8mm copper pipe and cut short rubber pipe sections to cushion the pipe against the car. It is the secured to the original(now fuel return line) by cable tie but its also fixed with the factory tabs too.

 

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I intend to carry on and refurb everything else so all that needed is the bearings. I'll see what my options are but my current thought is to hit the motorway tomorrow morning and go and get a new set from Minisport. At 220miles each way I could be back home for 13.00hrs and then refit the bearings and put the engine back in the car. I could then finish the EFI fitting and then go to the charity due in the night time.

 

I'll have a think tomorrow.

 

Chris.

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Chris,

 

It's been a while since I had anything much to do with the infernal A series but I don't recall the plain lower bearing halves being standard fit. More a tuning mod for additional load bearing on a tuned engine and even then, sometimes only applied on the centre main?

 

Nick

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According to Vizards A series book which I've just looked in, the only standard BL version to use any plain (un-grooved) main bearing was the Metro Turbo, and then only in the bottom half of the centre main. He doesn't appear to consider even this necessary except for engines that are going produce big power at high rpm. There is also the comment that Metro turbo blocks have a beefier centre main cap and if you don't have one of these or the centre main support strap mod then the bearing probably won't help much anyway. As this a 998...... I reckon you have the right bearings. Not quite sure why having a plain half shell doesn't mess up the oil feed to the two centre big ends as that is what the groove is there for.

 

Nick

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Well i woke up yesterday and called round for a set of bearings. Unfortunately no one local had a set. so what was my next best option???? Buy a current runner to get me to the charity due. So i found an engine and box near by. "Recently removed" it said cool. So i hired a van from B&Q (£15 hr) for two hours and got the engine. I returned home at 1300hrs and by 1330 i was by the engine with spanners at the ready. Id just had two jacket potatos so was fully fuelled up and began the work.

 

I didnt make the charity due in the end as i had to change the clutch and fly wheel, the diff seals, the head, water pump and a few other bits too. What some people think is a good engine makes me laugh. I then started on the mounts etc and by midnight the engine was in and connected up and the drive shafts were in. Alot of work but this other engine does have a few benefits. It doesnt need running in so ill be able to map the car over the next month and then when the other engine goes in it will be very close as the ecu currently has a 1275 map. So today having missed the dead line ill be taking my time and hopefully finish today and get some mapping done.

Here is a pic of the engine. Once our original engines rebuilt then we will swap them over but this will do for now.

 

Chris.

20120831_190415.jpg

 

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Ok so after a week of spanner Wa*king, I was quite tired so slept in and then went for a breakfast at Dobbies garden center. Then when I arrived home I chilled for a wee bit and then at about 1300hrs I decided to carry on with the mini. Here is where I got to last night.

 

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Here is a pic of the poly bushes and also the quick release polyurethane engine mounts.

 

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Here is a closer view, they are a great idea and the made fitting the engine so much quicker and much more easy. They have a pin which slide out and an R clip to secure the pin. Really good idea.

 

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So after tidying the rest of the mechanical's up I then started the EFI built. Here is the Crank sensor.

 

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Here is the Throttle body fitted. The clearance is tight but should be fine.

 

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So I fitted the rubber Fuel lines, the fuel filter, the fuel regulator, the ignition leads and then coil pack. Next on the list was the wiring loom. I wanted to fit the ECU inside the car but couldn't find any holes large enough for the clips to go through so I made one. I then fed the loom through from the inside and will buy a gromet to seal the hole. I then secured the loom with cable ties and fitted all the connectors. I also fitted the throttle cable that came with the kit. It is a really nice piece of kit which has adjusters at both ends and is one of the really nice touches to the kit. Here is where I got to.

 

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Final things left to do is finish adjusting the throttle cable and fit the fuel pump feed, relay, and then wire up the two ECU feeds (switched /live). Then I'll load the mapping program onto the laptop and go for a drive. I'll let you know how I go on.

 

Chris.

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OK, today went well. I made up the Wiring, relay bits and bobs that were needed and.............The Fuel pump didn't kick in. Ok so I bypassed the relay and VVVRRRRRROOOOOOMMMM it started right up but the fuel pump is the wrong type and too lower pressure so the test drive was a bit lean and juddery but everything worked. Unfortunately after alot of testing I couldn't get the ECU to power the Fuel pump and as far as I can see it's the ECU that is at fault. I'll give SC a call tomorrow just incase I've got something not quite right. However a total Success and I'll be ordering the correct pump tomorrow for Tuesday and then Go and map the System. Initial feel is WOW boy does the car pull better, much better than the carb but it's also more noisy(induction). We will have to wait and see if it clears with the better pump and fuelling. I'm also going to order some new shocks all round as the poly bushes have made such a difference that the old tired shocks definitely need changing. Will let you know more tomorrow.

 

Chris.

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Well thats the fuel relay issue sorted, Ordered the new fuel pump today for the mini and also new shocks (kyb Super Gas), braided hoses, Heater tap, new Master cylinder and a fuel tank sender seal.

 

On the Spitfire front I bought the Fuel Pump from Webcon.

 

http://www.webcon.co.uk/shop/shopexd.asp?id=12808

 

I also bought the fuel piping (copper) and the Flush fit fuel filler cap and neck. Will let you know how the mini goes tomorrow after the pump change.

 

Chris.

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Ok, yesterday I fitted a new uprated fuel pump and changed the fuel pipe setup. I then sanded the boot floor (found a few holes), and painted the fuel tank where some petrol spillage had removed some paint. I then fitted new KYB shocks all round. Then replaced the Master cylinder, the rear wheel cylinders and upgraded to braided Hoses all round. Unfortunately Only the front brakes are working. I must have nipped the rears or maybe need to bleed the master cylinder or something as there is no fluid going to the rears. Bummer. However the fronts are rock solid :thumbsup: and the fuel pump is working. Here is a pic:

 

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For the Spitfire, the Fuel filler cap arrived as did the Fuel pump unit from Webcon. Here are some more pic's.

 

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The pump is a nice unit and good for up to 220hp. It also houses the swirl pot and fuel sender all in one. This pump will be sent down to be fitted to my custom alloy fuel tank. Really looking forward to getting started on the Spitfire but need to finish the Mini First. Will Update once I know more.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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These arrived with my Webcon pump. They are a little nice extra I thought would make things neat where the fuel pipes travel down the chassis. They were expensive but are very nice and reduce shock hardening of the copper pipes through the use of the rubber grommets.

 

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I got six which should be plenty.

 

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Tomorrow I'm going to link the Mini ECU directly to the LC1 and use it's auto mapping software. It's really time consuming trying to map as your wife drives the car and dangerous trying to map and drive on your own. This Program lets you set the target AFR and you simply hold the position and it changes the point. It sounds much more easy to get 13-1 this way. I can then lean off the Cruising parts myself. Then I'll be off to the dyno guy to sort the Ignition side of things.

 

Before I start that though I'm off to the local grit blasters to get my pedals and other bits blasted back to bare metal. I'll then paint them with a colour of my choice before fitting to the T6 body. After the mapping session is completed I'll head home and start on the Spitfire. I'll be looking at fitting the engine mounts, clutch, hydraulic conversion kit and rear shocks tomorrow but we will see how we are for time.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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Sent the fuel pump off to Bestquality today for fuel tank mock up. I also took this stuff to the blasters.

 

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They will be ready for Wednesday next week, I'll give them a paint and then start fitting them. I'm also going to call the wiring loom place to see if they can make a loom to suit the car. We shall see.

 

Chris.

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Wiring harness has been ordered today, normal lead time is FIVE WEEKS. At this point I had to explain that I only have three??? I told him that I'm a Royal Marine, Olympian and the event is for charity. He said he will see what he can do, link to the company below. Fingers crossed.

 

http://www.thewiringharness.co.uk/contactus.htm

 

Chris.

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I've just ordered a new light weight fly wheel for the Zetec SE engine. It was the choice between using a original type zetec se pressure plate(which I don't think would like the hydraulic type 9 conversion) or order the light weight flywheel which has be made to take the standard ford rear wheel drive clutch which will work perfectly with the hydraulic conversion to the gearbox. So I bit the bullet, will arrive before next weekend. I also fitted the stainless steel button head bolts to the bell housing to connect it to the engine. I chose the button head Allan key type as they have a low profile. I also chopped a wee bit out of the front bulkhead to give better clearance on the back of the block. I'm away for squad training and then to London for the Olympic parade on Monday. Will let you know more once it happens.

 

Chris.

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