mattius Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Ahh shit, i only have one it would seem now, not sure if chick has more said he was running low couple of years ago. Might make a good template if you want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 Sure mate ill take it. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Gerard, Sorbs, thanks! There seem to be numbers of "intelligent/smart alternator controllers" that are designed to charge batteries in the optimum way, I think for marine use. The auto style design is described here: http://askpete-hella.com/2011/04/07/how-do-external-alternator-control-units-work/ and sesm to be a wholly electronic system that will increase the engine idle speed to prevent battery discharge with high loads. It does have an "Alternator switch-off when engine starts" mode, to reduce alternator drag and power loss on the engine, but I don't understand how that works. If a magnet is rotating in a coil, it does work in producing the EMF in the coil. Sure, an alternator uses an electromagnet, so that could be turned off to reduce the work of spinning, but I have n idea how that could be done. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 My little denso alternator has an idnition controlled supply, so I am guessing just put a switch in that circuit? It also has a battery sense terminal, maybe something attached there (currently unused) the car in question on the RBRR was an acclaim, IIRC it averaged over 50mpg over the 2000 miles. But the alternator fitted? I expect it was the original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Can't you just disconnect the field circuit? just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 I'll try and catch up with you at somepoint over the weekend chris, im back up to aberdeen on monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 (edited) Well I ordered some more bits today, Ive decided to give the stock brakes a try and see how they perform with the extra power but less weight. So Ive ordered a set of 1144 mintex pads and some Black diamond grooved discs. These should arrive by the end of the week. I'm waiting for a cheque to clear and then I'll be ordering new braided brake lines, new copper brake lines and also the Atpower throttle bodies and ECU kit. I'll probably order new rear lights and a new front windscreen too. Next Job to be done is the engine mounts but I need to check the throttle body clearance before the final design is made. Really looking forward to driving this now. Should only take a few more months depending on time. Chris. Edited May 14, 2012 by CHRIS211083 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I would advise that you get cunnifer brakelines, and not just cobber. Next I would recommend goodridge hioses, as these has been TUV approved, just so you know they aren't cheap tat that splits dfitst time you apply the brake hard..... Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Should only take a few more months depending on time. Chris. It's the details, custom and bespoke work that really sap time, alteast doing stuff well. Ordering stuff is easy. I noted you used the word "order or ordering" 4 times. Once the ordering and dreaming is over the real work starts; the real fun of piecing it all together; thats reality not the mania of all that consumerism and spending - which is - driving your expectations into overdrive. "Few" whats that? 3months. I'll take any bet you won't achieve that. Infact I'll double your bet to 6months and even them I'll side bet that you do what every other virgin of automotion does; build the car as fast as you can just to put it on the road, the universe is infinate, great things take time, time is a human trick of mind, time should play no factor in the car project as time is not a concept that a pile of elements needs to interact with on it's metamorphasis into a beautiful butterfly. After rushing to get a half built half finished project down the MOT station you'll then never quite finish it all off; your haste compremised large portions of the project through the fact many of your decisions where effected by haste, haste is best applied to the right situations, such as fighting or flighting being a factor for haste is generally ying to quality that the yang of control over ones natural urges brings to the projects. This is especially obvious in those projects done by mature and experienced workers who have long since lost haste or use it only when needed, the projects done by those of ample and well developed skills of patience and useful hindsights are the best ones. I never gave myself a target on my project, that's why it left the garage complete, never needed another thing making or adjusting and did it's 7000miles in 12months without even a spanner needing to be placed upon the new engine install, bar a wank clutch cylinder i "ordered" instead of making my own. I knew that it would be **king great and it was, the longer I took over things the better they were..... Wish you all the best of course, it's just I seen alot in my time with me all seeing eye. Aye Aye. I see all these projects happening now for years, they all take on "direction" based on the builders psychological make up. Generally every project follows a flavour and needs input to put it back on a most logical route now and then. We can all order and spend, it's time to start doing something now. That's where the grind starts. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Brue lee Enter the dragon??? Nice pic but confused I am. I think you need to cut down on the joints mate. This time Scale should not be a problem, I should have the car together and ready for paint in Three month. Then its down to Chic Doig to paint it Then I'll finish the reassembly of the last bits. The time frame is for the RBRR2012. However if I don't make it then it's not a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 There's a difference between assembling the car and finishing it This is in part the reason I have not completed my Spitfire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Well this will be a ever evolving car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 I would advise that you get cunnifer brakelines, and not just cobber. Next I would recommend goodridge hioses, as these has been TUV approved, just so you know they aren't cheap tat that splits dfitst time you apply the brake hard..... Cheers Nick Yeah Chris posted that on CT as well so I will copy and paste my answer on here as well. Please Chris do not use copper brake lines they are TOTAL SHITE !! There are so many specific reasons . Copper reacts with alloy cylinders I have seen one split a master cylinder at the fitting. It expands with the brake pressure causing spongey pedal then eventually expands jamming in the unions. It is very easily damaged by overtightening can actually fracture at the flare without you knowing. Overtightening can cause the flare to close over blocking the line. A MOT inspector can fail a car fitted with copper lines they used to do it over here regularly because there is no way of knowing the condition of the flare. Get them made up in Kunifer, fit and forget, also twice the burst pressure of copper. I sent an e-mail one time containing the above to a customer. He printed it out and took it to a MOT guy for a second opinion. Very soon after I got an e-mail back from him saying that he had taken it to MOT guy then "Thanks I did not know copper pipe was so bad". Laurence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 I'm perfectly happy in the real world Chris I used to live in the world you live in, over eager, knows it all but knows nothing etc Joints have nothing to do with it, it's called experience, experience is the basis of knowledge and knowledge is the basis of self discovery, my point; my projects became infinately better during my late 20's; when experience had taught me better and modified my behaviour to improve my end results, through a natural process - years or messing with fast engines - my experiences automatically adjusted my thinking, that's just maturity but it's a mechanical process, you can mature (in one of the hundreds of systems that makes you what you currently are) very quickly if you are exposed to hard lessons such as costly blowups and time wasted in this arena or any life event or action that causes some form of reaction from which there is a direct action upon yourself. So the less you exposue yourself to the slower your various "skills" mature. In essense the pursuit of the best job I could do caused automatic lost of bravado, haste and over eagerness and it was replaced with cool-calm-collected logical thinking as this was the most minimalistic and reliable form of action to fit in with my end desires which was minimalistic reliablity; acting without the cloud of my ego driving me to unrealistic targets that caused work to be rushed, a rushed job never being a good job I could really achieve perfection in somethings. Problem is some people have no idea or ability to actually sense what makes the difference between a good car and bad one. I'm glad I am "tuned" in cause I can't imagine being one of those people who gets out of a car I deem to be a total turd and claim "it's great!" They are in another world man. Simples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Enter the dragon? That's Roper. Roper likes a bet. http://youtu.be/bg7j1Jt1Lys Bet I only used full throttle for about 10seconds of this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wq1Ccc4nigI Things like getting the individual requirements for tracking and camber right take time. My car TOTALLY transformed from the stock engine to the VVC K-series. The first video is just after major surgery to the rear camber and tracking, the 2nd video is dire handling no ability to put power down even uphill in 3rd, this was just after I'd got it back on the road with the new engine, the suspension was on the old angles from the combe trackday before I blew the 1300 on the way home, it handled like absolute shit with the new engine yet it handled "well" on the trackday. Well for me it was too soft, too much roll, too much understeer, too much cross chassis yaw - all these big flaws in my reality, however they were not percieved or noted by most; these were actually little flaws to the average man: big flaws thought to me, constant annoyance at my cars lack of perfect balance, so to folks like GT or I who have 3D stereo senses the car is heavily flawed, To average joe it was easily the best and fastest spitfire or GT6 there and handled really quite well, probably be the best setup spitfire anyone would ever drive as a package, super for a swing axle car, yet to me it's a bag of flaws to be remedied. Anyway car went from too much understeer on the trackday with 1300 lump to having perverse oversteer, the rear end on ice and the front all washy with the K-series fitted, 6inches back and 60kilos saved. I can save you some time right now and tell you to ignore all the race ramblings on camber angles and such like and also rear camber and tracking. You'll have to go your own way. Be useful to have adjustable rear radius arms. You can accurately adjust these a few flats at a time and go back, it's a really good as it makes a huger difference to the extremes of the suspension when the car is about to develop an inbalance. You'll probably find if you retain the rear suspension that the extra power will distort the wheel movement alot, you'll want to run more rear toe-in than book figure as the toe angle changes alot under power and it causes a toe-out at the wheel or something and the rear steers alot, 2degrees of negative at the camber should put the ride hieght in the right place. On the front you'll no longer require higher levels of camber as the roll is all but gone on a light car. Try like 1.2degrees negative on the front and run with no toe in or out and 325lb springs will be about ideal for all round use. Spitfires want to sit even, they handle like shit with the front end lower than the rear end, best is the front-end to be a tad higher than the rear as then when the car squats into corners the whole thing doesn't load onto the front corner and the rear weight lightens excessively and the car becomes unhinged on the limit. You get loads of drive and stuff also over power as you can see in my videos, you need a decent set of dampers. I'm a fixer, detail man. I see "more". As a result I don't always like what I see, cause I see it all for what it is, as such I will give my opinion whether it's easy on the ego or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 Dave we are at two different ends of the spectrum. I appreciate all your imput but i dont think you would be happy with my car. We will see though. Ill do the best i can. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Ok So the Mintex 1144 pads arrived today as did the Black diamond discs. The discs really feel coarse. This should give me a decent braking combo. Ive also Ordered the goodridge brake lines and pipes too. Also an engine hoist tail lights, indicators and a hole cutter. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Brake hoses, you should have got a set of these Chris, Cross drilled brake hoses. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 what a great site,......i've ordered mine and a 'passenger noise reducer' for the missus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 what a great site,......i've ordered mine and a 'passenger noise reducer' for the missus I need a new 710 cap and a wiper blade sharpener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Here are the bits I got from front line for the type 9 conversion. Tomorrow it ifs nice and my engine hoist arrives then I will see if they need to be modified to fit now the engine has changed. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Engine Hoist arrived this evening. Bell housing was bolted to the type 9 gearbox. The holes needed reaming slightly but it went together fine. I then bolted the box to the engine and test fitted them in the car. After the test fitting I measured the amount of tunnel that was to be removed for the gearbox to fit. It also turns out that the mounting plate from front line will fit perfectly. I'm also hoping that the propshaft will fit as well but this I'll find out tomorrow. I'll be visiting Chic Doig tomorrow for more parts and hope to fit the front windscreen, new discs and the propshaft. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Ok so today I ground down the fins on the front of the sump. Then the engine was fitted and removed and fitted and removed. I really like this install, below you can see how good the ground clearance is. Here is how the engine fits around the front cross member. No chassis mods needed. Here is the engine fitted, you can see how low the engine sits however I will have to cut the front shelf of the new tub. Here is the other end of the setup. It fits really nice, the mounting plate from frontline mounts under the top lip on the chassis. Its set back a bit from the standard gear lever position but it looks good. Here is the reason I'll have to remove part of the front of the tub. The coil pack and water hose inlet and heater inlet are mounted here on the rear of the engine. I could probably get a custom part made but I think it would be cheaper and neater to use the original part and make a small alteration to the tub and gearbox tunnel. I'm also thinking of permanently sealing up the tunnel cover and just having just the rear part that comes away for removing the gear lever and mounting plate bolts. This will mean that the gearbox must come out with the engine. However the gearbox is a sealed unit and has no drain plug so should not need any attention unless I really increase the Hp of the engine. Finally the last shot of this evenings work just before the sun started to set. Unfortunately I tried to fit the propshaft and its a good 3-4 inch too long so this will need to go away to be re-sized and then re-balanced but all in all not a bad couple hours work. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 You'll need more brakes than that if you want to drive quick. Purely as they are just too small to let go of the heat and hold heat, they just melt. Arite for pottering about though. Light car is still a potentially 150mph car. It's the stopping time and time again over and over, fade resistance that will be lacking the first couple of brakes will be fine, talking about braking here, standing on them, from high speed. That's when it matters + that's when you need bigger brakes. Thats when you need reliable brakes cause it matters then. Prop angle is important. I lowered my engine delibrately as low as pos and set the gearbox lower than the stock position, depends how high the front is....Prop company could have just made you a prop to length...they'd only need the Triumph yoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 (edited) Well today I went to get the new propshaft from frontline shortened. However the propshaft guy informed me that the prop was not usable and the uj's had too much play!!! Very annoyed but he showed me what he meant. Basically it would vibrate and knock it's self to bits unless you drive like a granny. So he fitted two new joints and a new ford type nose end. He said next time go straight to him. It would have costed more than I paid initially but it would have been done properly the first time. So here is my re-rebuilt propshaft thats been shortened 3 1/2 " I then went home and finished the fitting and positioning of the engine. I also cut the gearbox tunnel too. Here is the tunnel not fitting And here it is after a wee cut. Its not a bad fit but I'll need to play with it and then fabricate the rest. After this I then decided to check bonnet clearance again just to make sure everything fits fine. So I placed the bonnet on and it has about 2" clearance and there is an inch block of wood under the engine at the mo. This setup would definitely fit under a round tail bonnet. Wow it looks good. Here is another clearance shot, loads of room Its at this point that I decided I'd done enough today as I have a new chain and sprocket set to fit to the Thruxton. So to finish on a high I lowered the car to the floor and placed the door on. Really looking forward to finishing this car. It looks STUNNING. Congrats again to Graham On building such a great Kit. Chris. Edited May 23, 2012 by CHRIS211083 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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