Nick B.

Somehow my wife (ENT surgeon) was not to impressed either last week when I used the needleholder to hold a bullet while soldering. At the time it seemed like the perfect tool.

Report from the slowest install of Megajolt. After my first attempt at Megajolt failed some 12 years ago with a fried Megajolt box, I am now en route again! When the previous install was removed, one of the bulletjoints broke and had to be resoldered. Which was a slight problem with harness in situ in a garage without electricity! I got hold of a 12V soldering iron, and managed to get the bullet soldered in place while lying in the footwell on the drivers side. Now all was in place, and the green lights were bright (at least the two for power and RPM. No light at the adv. diode). I connected a laptop to the box and was met by 'couldn't open port'. Bollocks. After much messing about, I managed to update the drivers for the usb-ports, but no luck. With the old ignition still in place, I tried turning the car on, and for no apparent reason, the pressure from the manifold seemed to work, despite the no port issue, and I could read the manifold pressure. After a minute or two of idling, suddenly the no port issue solved itself, and the error message disappeared. Strange but nice. I could now sit in the garage and watch the manifold pressure on screen while revving the engine. However no reading of the RPM. I tried fiddling about with the wires, but no change. I decided to call it the day, and will get back and investigate the sensor at the trigger wheel next time I have a few hours with the spit. Perhaps the sensor needs some care after sitting in exposed in the engine bay with no use for the last 10 years. Cheers Nick

Winning suggestion! Thanks Roger. After trying with fire, I went home and ordered the 12V soldering iron. Now I just have to wait for it to appear at my doorstep. Meanwhile I better read the megavolt instructions. I have found a map for a spitfire with somewhat same configuration as mine on autosportslabs (attached) - that will have to do as a startingpoint: It is made for this US engine: Large crank. Lightened and balanced Crank. gas flowed head. Fast road cam. Twin HS4's carbs running AAA needles. Roller rockers. My engine differs on not having roller rockers and running a standard MK3 cam and standard crank. We will se what happens. Cheers Nick Robbaiscmap.mjlj

Started much to my own surprise! probably due to Doug Hansen tweaking the carbs and ignition at Rolduc. However there was some nasting hesitation when accelerating, and I hope it is down to the ignition and MJ will sort it out. Oooh, thanks John. It really is possible, but looks overly complicated. Meanwhile I have been donated a not to shabby Lenovo ideapad. It is an extremely slow and somewhat strange computer. I succesfully installed Megajolt software, and will test the thing later this week. For now I have to figure out how to solder a broken bulletconnector in a garage without eletricity. Plans are including a blowtorch to the bullet and hope there are enough solder left in the wire and indside bullet to get the two parts stuck back together. To be cont. Cheers Nick

Thanks. I had seen the thread, but hoped there had been some development since 2004. You might be right about purchasing a cheap secondhand laptop. Oh well, of to the facebook market or similar to find something that runs windows10. Just annoying that I only have the kids surplus macbook after my old trusty lenovo died. I just got back to the car yesterday after neglecting it since last 10 countries run. It is still dirty from the torrental rain in france. It started up after appr. 20 seconds of cranking. Pretty impressive considering the quality of fuel, and I had forgot to disconnect the battery. Cheers Nick

Hi, I am still trying to get my megajolt installation to work. Latest obstacle is, that my ancient laptop gave up the ghost, and now I only have a macbook available. Has anyone figured out if megajolt can be run from a macbook? Cheers Nick

we may need to bring this tool on the next 10cr

Thanks Pete. I had missed that one. Must go measure! Must go rummage around the pile of bits at the remote garage and measure those dipsticks as well! Cheers Nick

Seems like a sensible solution! Apart from spewing oil after top-ups on the 10CR there appeared no noticeable oilconsumption this time - which is a great difference from 10CR prior to fitting oilcooler. So I kind of approve of the oilcooler :-) Cheers Nick

Yes, this would be a method. However, slightly complicated by the oilcooler..... It is not a very big problem, just a tad annoying that the rear of my engine is qited messy af20 miles after an oilchange. Cheers Nick

Hello all, When I rebuild my engine some years ago, I had the choice between several oil-dipsticks with unknown origin. Conservatively I chose the on that fitted with the highest markings, thinking to much oil is better than to little. This have worked fine so far. However, whenever I fill the engine to half way between half and max, the engine vomits a fair bit of oil through the rockercover on the following run. have I fitted a dipstick meant for a car with a deeper sump? Does anyone have an original dipstick, and can measure the markings for me. I would like to affirm that I have somewhat correct markings on the dipstick. Cheers Nick

Thanks - were you driving the yellow spitfire? I think we had a brief chat on densos and waterpumps at Rolduc. It is difficut to put faces and names on these internet aliases :-) Needles and carbs are a bit strange. The car has tubular sports exhaust and raised compression with 1.5SU on a 1300 engine. I originally ran with AAQ needles, but melted a sparkplug. Then changed to AAA - emergency needles, which is OK, and judging from the plugs not to rich. I will probably do some more testing when I have the megajolt installed. It has really been waiting for to long. Thanks for helping with the math - I apparantly used the wrong internet converter It was indeed driven hard - and there was a fair bit of autobahn involved toget back and forth to Denmark. Car seemed happy just around 115-120 KMH/ 70-75 MPH with OD engaged. Cheers Nick

I would be the wrong one to point fingers at problems which should have been sorted, when I left home without extra points and condensors. In my defense - I have never had a problem with condensors. Still - now there is even more reason to fit the megajolt which have been rummaging round in the desk for more than 10 years. The event was brilliant as ever. I have just figured out that I covered 4517 KM /2806 miles with a fuel consumption of 309.7 liters which (according to the internet) makes 19.348 UK MPG. Not bad running 1.5 SU with AAA needles. Cheers Nick

SOLVED! What was wrong was that the car needed a flogging. Must have been a bad connection somewhere. Going up Stelvio it suddenly came on - and stayed alive. Was a nice 90 degrees when running on A-roads. Going hard uphill moved it to 115. Dropping back to 90 going downhill. All in all a succes. Time heals most wounds (unfortunately not big ends) Cheers Nick

Looking out the windows it appears to be first floor.

Is it not mostly a meter measuring how far you pres the accelerator pedal down? I have also seen them marketed as econometers. Helps you drive less fun. I would not bother (then on the other hand I have bothered about volts, oiltemp and aoipressure) I would fit it if I found pleasure in seing gauges operate :-) Cheers Nick

Are you tempted to fix it? It looks slightly better that you last project prior to restoration!

Covering up might work. And it does allready have a thermostat in the oilcooler circuit. But I believe it is the gauge or sensor that has died. Prior to the oilcooler being installed, it woked, Then followed by a lay-up and oilcooler, it does not work (or oil is really really cold). I believe it is the wiring that has gone awry - it is wireed over the voltage regulator, and something might have gone wrong. Cheers Nick

Putting the sensor in water is a very good suggestion. My problem is I need to find something to replace the hole for the sensor. Next I would need to remove the gauge. And 10CR being a week and a bit away, I believe the multimeter solution is the way to go. I would rather not temper to much with the car just before going on a longer journey . It runs fine for the time being, cold oil or not. I like the suggestion of taping the cooler up - might be able to trigger the oil into heating ? I will keep you posted. Cheers Nick

This could very well be the next step. However, I would probably go with smiths gauges and the sensor bell thingy on the sump. Not that I am a purist, but still. I do share your concern about hot oil delivery in the cabin being a bit suspicious. There is just something appealing about a mechanical gauge ..... Cheers Nick

There are certain small signs that warns me of on these scams. If we look at the japanese scam from Royal Mail, they have misspelled 'incorect' with a single 'r'. That is a certain way to get me to delete mails. The second one from Royal Mail also had troubles with spelling and wrote ' and u were away'. I doubt RM would replace 'you' with 'u'. The third one from amazon. They appear to use your email instead of your name. I never use mail for username - so I always know if people greets me with my mailname, it is definately a spam. However - they are getting better at it - perhaps they will even know how to spell some day! Cheers Nick

Well, the problems were twofold - psychological and mechanical. Psychology: I kept looking at the thing worrying about what appeared to be low pressure when running on extended trips. Especially coming to a stop - red lights for instance - looking at alarmingly low pressure. I changed oilpump, rummaged around the engine,changed the oilpressure relief valve and increased idle speed. All sorts of things, and all due to a low pressure which I would never see if I just relyed on the green light. So all in all, a more pleasant ride after the gauge was decommisioned. Perhaps I am killing my engine, but will be doing this with a smile instead of worrying about why I am killing my engine. Mechanical: The plastictube to the gauge splitted. Replacing the tube as to hard to bother, as I would have to remove the rubbergrommet in the firewall, where the hole was really to tight for the new plastictube with the broncefiting to pass through. (yes, I am a lazy sod). Perhaps I am just longing for uncomplicated motoring without having to observe all the gauges. I still have the voltmeter, which reliably informs me that my denso-alternator works perfectly ! Cheers Nick

Thanks for the replies. The temp sensor is in the sump, so should be independant of the cooler. I gues I need to find a multimeter. I have not used one in ages, and seem to have lost the one I was gifted a decade ago. Bit (much?) of a baffoon when it comes to electrickery. Usually ends up being electrocuted. If I survive the multimeter testing, and produces no good explanation, then on to the infrered :-) Must admit I have been contemplating just getting rid of the gauge and hope for the best. I have already gotten rid of the oilpressure gauge as it was an eternal source of worry. Cheers Nick

It is well known, that one should not change to many things at one time, as there will be no clue to what has gone wrong afterwards. However, that is what I just did. I used to have a problem of the oil getting very very hot when driving spirited on 10CR. The water temp was largely unaffected, but I do have a wide herald type radiator in the spitfire. After the car had been laid up for appr. 3 years, I decided to do something about it. And I had several things done: New exhaust, Carbs were overhauled - it appeared that I had a intake of false air from flanges between inlet manifold and carb housing. This was corrected. Ignition were replaced with a NOS Oilcooler (with thermostat) were fitted. So it appears my troubles are gone, as the oiltemp does not budge. And this to an extent were I doubt the gauge is working. It remains at the furhest left position (70). Now, would this be: 1: The oilcooler does its stuff? 2: The oil cooler does its stuff and was never needed as I ran hoot due to the carbs being lean? 3: Oil temp feeler or gauge is defective? And if 3: how do I test this? On the bright side : car drives superbly, and I am ready for 10CR in a few weeks time. Cheers Nick

Hi John, My search skills did not produce anything - I found the exact same thing. All out of stock. As a temporary solution, you could try something like this, until the OEM mount reappears. 360° Cycle Bicycle Light Lamp Torch LED Flashlight Mount Bracket Holder Clip+ | eBay Best wishes Nick