DaveNotSoSideways Posted May 20, 2009 Posted May 20, 2009 Tried 7850.1 (2 steps richer) and a 55 idle (3 steps leaner) and it appears to work better than my beloved 7850.9 and 58 7850.1/55 was lean as piss on my previous 5 emulsion tube setup, now works well. Gotta love carbs! Ordered some 56 idles and 150 airs. I am very close now! Need to test this MIG wired holder also on a 56-57 jet. Need an afternoon of solid logging and studying on about 10 combos now. I think its a case of ignoring the Lambda now to a certain extent, alteast after just logging a few more jets and just using my very small window of jet options to just swap jets and drive on them to figure out which is better! The effects being very sutble indeed. I can get very very slightly deeper into the throttle on the 7850.1 and 55 jet as the idle holder is richer, so less gap before I get that lean moment as on the blog, so it's nearly cured!...mixture low down is identical so economy should be the same. Need to study the logs I made later on.
lordleonusa Posted May 20, 2009 Posted May 20, 2009 In my concern about fire in cars, I came across this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_fire Apparently there is a car fire in the USA every 96 seconds. L
lordleonusa Posted May 21, 2009 Posted May 21, 2009 I have decided that when I am reassembling under the bonnet, I will be using more of the products of Thermo Tec, the original company, and none of their imitators. http://www.thermotec.com/ I intend to insulate the Spark Plug Wires/High Tension Leads. Electrical Harness/Loom. Oil Cooler Hoses. Rest of the fuel line, where not already done. and properly seal the gap between the gearbox tunnel cover and front bulkhead, plus any other odd holes/gaps. (The new ABS gearbox cover is being shielded with fire retardant soundproofing, which I already have). I also like the look of their battery shielding, and gearlever cover. Then there's the 1.5kg Halon Fire Extinguisher. Of course, none of this will be 'cheap', but VERY worthwhile. Léon p.s. I spoke to Magnecor today, (nice people), and they will be more than happy to make up just to two high tension leads that I burned @ 15 USD each.
GT Posted May 21, 2009 Posted May 21, 2009 I hope your car gets better soon Leon. Me too, but it's not quite Christine, yet! L ;D ;D You should try fuel injection for a good sized fire.....yours was only about 7psi... Shooting balls of fire..there's nothing like 130psi for feeding a fire,- it happened to me JUST ONCE...after that never used anything else but steel pipes again.
lordleonusa Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 Mine was only from vapourised/spilled fuel while I was investigating where the blockage was happening. Ambient Temperature, 96 degrees Fahrenheit. Stray ignition spark from 42,000volt coil, and... Whoompf! The fuel for the fire quickly changed from spilled fuel to Vinyl wiring loom/harness wrap c/w the plastic around the wires, which melted the nylon? oil feed hose to the oil temperature gauge, and I am pretty sure that the oil previously contained in that hose also caught fire. The intense heat trapped within the space at the back of the LH engine valance began to melt part of the ABS battery case, (Boy I was lucky there). It also singed the rear two Magnecour HT leads/spark plug wires, and burned the powder coating on the back of the LH engine valance- both sides, and the LH lower bulkhead. The fact that the bonnet on our Triumphs opens fully put the 'expensive' paint job on the bonnet out of harms way, but allowed additional oxygen to feed the fire. Fuel apparently ran back along the chassis and burned the oil-fume-soaked compressed cardboard gearbox cover, and the flammable sound-proofing/heat shielding c/w old spray-on adhesive, this continued to smoulder and provide the ignition source for the secondary smaller whoompf, after I had emptied the first small fire extinguisher, but I put that one out with the second fire extinguisher. I then completely removed the gearbox cover to be on the safe side. I just ordered 2 replacement Magnecour HT leads and bought 3 more fire extinguishers on the way home. 2 for the house and one for the car. L
GT6_sleeper Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 there's nothing like 130psi for feeding a fire,- thats about 9 bar you crazy man what was you playing with at that fuel pressure I don't think I would trust most fuel fittings and hoses at that fuel pressure
SteveA Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 Gareth, normal Lucas PI pressure is around 110psi, so going up to 130 isn't too much of a frightener. Though it does make me a bit happier to know I am using fuel hose rated at 1000psi burst pressure for my PI setup. Anyway, I thought I'd check the tappets on the 2000 saloon last night as it was starting to get a bit noisy. Off with the rocker cover to find that the retaining screw for the rocker shaft was not in it's proper place. I found it though, wedged between a push rod and a cam follower, but could not remove it with the push rod in place. So off came the rocker shaft and carefully out with the push rod and the screw drops into the cam follower. The next two hours were spent with a variety of tools trying to extract the screw. In the end I managed to jam a couple of packing extractors in the follower and pull it up high enough to get a magnetic tipped screwdriver. So a twenty minute job ended up taking over two hours
Mother Teresa Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 After my recent adventures at Cadwell- on getting the car home, I whipped off the rocker assembly in readiness to lift the head, only to find mt little retaining screw had gone walkabout similarly: though this one is listed as MIA. Can't find it anywhere; now something did drop off when I lifted it off the engine (tinkle-tinkle-plooop?), but god knows what it was or where it went : This week: I have mostly been drilling mainfolds for breathers and heating pipes.
GT Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 Err...I used to run my PI at 160 psi. It was mandatory to try to get it to run full load at 130psi, (which it was really struggling to achieve) without which all sorts of gremlins arrived. All old Lucas F1/F2 systems ran at 160Psi, which was only maintainable with a belt driven pump. Fire I realised was such a hazard I always carried a proper race type Halon extinguiser, and the PI lines were steel ones right back to the gearbox area where they were armour plated all the way back to the boot area where there was a proper RAC blue book fire break. Having said that I did have a 160psi pressure gauge into the dashboard area which somehow made the precautions above rather pointless. :
GT6_sleeper Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 I did not know it was that high, im feeling rather pleased now that mine will be only running 3 bar
AndyGT6 Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 Just spent the day unbolting things from the engine, ready to pull the engine & gearbox out on Wednesday. I was planning on leaving the manifolds on, but I discovered that the std exhaust manifold obscures the bolts for the lifting eye so off they came too :(. The tubular manifold I used to have allowed me access to the bolts. Once the engine is out, I'll sort a few patches of flaky paint on the chassis, and next week I'm off down to Coventry to collect an uprated GT6 box with J-type O/D from Mike Papworth. Andy
spitNL Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 Ported the new cylinder head according to Neil's thread. I didn't know the short turn is that bad as standard, it really is a sharp 90degree angle. The Jaguar valve springs have arrived. ;D Apparently they only come in packs of five, ordered 16 so got 20springs. Measured both the old Triumph and new Jaguar springs, the Jaguar springs are slightly weaker. Fitted the Jaguar valve springs with a shim underneath. Put the cylinderhead on,with a new Payen gasket, adjusted the valves. The bores are in good shape, no scratches, no ridge, and the pistons are STD size. Also the headgasket looked like it was a NOS unit, it looked like one GT has shown, like a Payen, only grey. Working on putting the triggerwheel on the front pulley. I have decided to mount the triggerwheel on the back, as centering it will be much easier that way. Frederick
GT6Steve Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 The Jaguar valve springs have arrived. ;D Apparently they only come in packs of five, ordered 16 so got 20springs. OMG, That sounds so typical of our cars...What nitwit deduced that FIVE was the ideal standard package for ANY known automobile, GT5R's excepted of course ;D
GT6Steve Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 My car is getting the engine put back to running state. I put it back in last Sunday? and have been working on exhaust. Now waiting on bends... So, went to work on rear hubs for Chuck Gee's future GT6 dominator. He bought the rear hubs from a talented fellow in the eastern US that gave up on his GT6 project. Chuck may have bought the whole car?? Among the bits were these nicely drilled brake backing plates. I thought you'd enjoy seeing them
smithy Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 Ordered up a fuel line (to fuel pump from tank line at bulkhead) for my new fuel pump; got a 10mm fitment for a God-knows-what. Brakes, probably. Ordered an oil gallery stud too and got a threaded-both-ends something-or-other. Ordered oil gallery stud again and got something VAST. It was at least it was approximately OK in that it was a stud and did have an allen-key fitment, but it was big enough to fit your thumb in. Got to work on the Rad and hoses instead. Mowed the lawn and planted an acer.
lordleonusa Posted May 26, 2009 Posted May 26, 2009 Have been picking apart, studying and backward-engineering my wiring harness. Aside from the use of Lucas colour-codes, I do not have a wiring diagram specific to my custom made harness, nor do I presently have any Lucas colour coded cables. I have made copious notes and taken photos, and will this coming week be ordering replacement cables from Autosparks in the UK. Here are some photos. I also mowed the lawn, and am presently cooking a nice leg of lamb. L
lordleonusa Posted May 26, 2009 Posted May 26, 2009 last one main beam, dip beam & horn relays, not involved in fire, just recorded for information.
SpitmkIIICPH Posted May 26, 2009 Posted May 26, 2009 Project gearbox swap begins on the spit... Nick B flogged me a D-TYPE OD a while back, and since the current gearbox is buggered now is as good a time to change as ever... Decided to remove engine/gearbox together, gives me lots of room when trial fitting the OD-Box etc.. will also check the condition of the AVO bushes and troil my onions ;D plan is also to fit a 1500 roll-bar incl. rod-end links..
Nick B. Posted May 26, 2009 Posted May 26, 2009 Ace - that's really good. Hope the box is good ;D Cheers Nick
lordleonusa Posted May 28, 2009 Posted May 28, 2009 Pair of High Tension Leads/Spark Plug Wires arrived from Magnecor today. First class people to deal with, fast service, got my telephoned order right first time. Wire # 5 = 8½" between boots, plug boot 45 degrees - (to avoid distributor) Wire # 6 = 5" between boots, plug boot straight - this is the only one really fire damaged. Plug boots now black instead of red, but that's OK, I will replace the other 5 wires, later, when I have got the car running again and have spare money, whatever that is. I have also finished figuring out all the individual cable colours, and gauges that I need to order from Autosparks, faster and cheaper than dealing with British Wiring over here. 14 strand in UK = 18 gauge here. 24 different colour cables required. 28 strand in UK = 14 gauge here. 6 different colour cables required. 44 strand in UK = 12 gauge here. 2 different colour cables required. 65 strand in UK = 10 gauge here. 1 colour cable required. plus some grommets and loom wrapping tape. I will be ordering the cables tomorrow, meanwhile I have to remove the heater box to clean the fire extinguisher encrusted powder & soot from beneath it, then the LH engine surround to give me more access to the fire damaged area. Lots of fun. The work goes on. Léon
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