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Posted

Car runs ok except that it pulls to the right when braking .... when the car was a heap of shit for 10 years I never had trouble with brakes, now 2 years after the restoration they start to make trouble  ::)

 

Will check tonight what the problem is, maybe scrap parts again ...

 

 

Cleaned the rear brakes tonight and readjusted them ... braking issue sorted  :)

 

Had a few test runs and enjoyed trashing the engine a bit before it gets replaced hopefully quite soon by the small crank 1300 .... and its damn cold outside brrrrrr

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Last weekend I replaced the wheelbarrow exhaust with this one, purchased direct from Bell without the silencer in the center section. The car is much quieter round town which is what I wanted, but it has lost a bit of performance :(. I'll leave it on for now, as I'm less inclined to thrash the car, and as I'll be fitting a new gearbox and diff next month I'm thinking that gentler driving is a good thing ::). Just need to check whether a change of needles is required.

After seeing some of the cars at Cadwell last week, I was surprised the single big bore exhaust didn't seem too noisy. I may be tempted by one in the future.

 

Andy

Posted

This poor sad thing really just needs scuff and paint, all there and nearly rust free. The PO stripped and painted the frame BRG, in UK vernacular I couldn't be arsed to change it back to Signal Red. This is one of the race projects. Doing some things to the street car that will apply to the others, kind of a trial and error method. When I find all the desirable things then they shall be repeated on the other 4 cars.

Weekends are now mostly going to be spent at the cottage so a little stalling on the projects is in order.

Posted

I just managed to lever the gearbox back in and I'm reasonably chuffed. Pleased to have found the enthusiasm to do so!

To reward the old nail I pushed it into the sun, washed it, photo'd it, and pushed it back into the garage.  :)

DSCN0608.jpg

Posted

Today I've been machining Saloon box output flanges to fit the GT6 size propshaft flange.  The register is done and the OD reduced, now need to get the mill clear to bore four new bolt holes in each.

 

I'd forgotten that mine was a bastard until I borrowed the stock Saloon box last season.  The bolt circle on the stock one was just slightly different.  Turns out all I did back in the dark ages was drill the output flange holes slightly oversize.  No register at all.  Worked fine but I want a bit more precision for the new trans.

 

I'll wager there's a part in the books where the factory did just this, TR box and herald sized propshaft.

 

Anybody got a drawing of the bolt circle, rectangle, layout to save me doing one? :)

Posted

Having taking advice from GT5R, I've taken an axe to the inlet manifolds to work on the manifold balance pipes. I'm looking to blank-off the existing 15mm items and work some-kind of Scrapyard Challenge special in 22mm via the tops of the inlet manifolds.

Also looking to drill and fit heating pipes to give the manifolds as much chance as possible of working correctly.

Pictures to follow in due course ;D!

 

Posted

Today I Rolled the GT6 out and gave it a wash, after getting pretty minging going over to Cadwell! :o

 

Cadwell de brief...

Throttle cable went stiff on way home , feels like the cable frayed a bit inside.

 

Roughly worked out the fuel mpg, to Cadwell,around the track day,and blasting home, overall average is about 21mpg ish!!   I usually average around 25mpg, so thats not that bad really as it did sit at 5k rpm for most of Cadwell ! :B

 

Used No water, and about a pint of oil ish, in the 460 mile round trip. :)

 

oh, both the rear speakers came loose ! hehe :B

 

Changing the lovely moto lita wooden rim steering wheel for a chunkier leather rim  mountney one (£15 ebay bargain) was a revalation! Soo much nicer to steer?drive! ;D

Best £15 ive spent on the car in years!!

 

And to make it even sweeter, the mota lita wheel has just sold on ebay for £96 !! lol

 

(clap)

Posted

Result Roy :).

I blanked off the old 15mm take-offs in the manifolds today and made a little jig to hold them whilst I drill the 25mm holes for the new take-offs.

Also stripped the rad of it's Kenlowe and temperature senders and drain-plug, in readiness to have it cleaned/brazed/fettled.

Posted

Played with my 2J1 Wideband controller...hooked up to the laptop using Air Fuel Ratio logging with RPM traced over it...

 

Looked in great detail at the tiny differences between some jets after taking 5minute logs on general driving.

 

145 / 150 main jets

160 / 155 air correctors

5 emulsion tube

 

Have found 150/5/160 best.

 

However I think 148/5/155 maybe better.

 

Getting there...

 

I need to jets to fix the pump issue, you can see that as I shift and get back on the gas the mixture goes weak then rich....

 

After this spike is another one, this is an emulsion tube issue....

 

From 5000-6000 if leans off a bit in the graph to 13.3:1. Ideally wants to be 12.8 or so here...

 

Then the mixture is excellent from 6000-7300 where it holds dead on 12.7 here, which is ideal at WOT for peak power...12.7 is PEAK power mixture.

 

I think maybe removing 0.005" from the outside of the emulsion type might sort this, making it a tad more active earlier without effecting the other rest...I also feel the "roll" on throttle delivery is a little late in the TPS, a small mod to the tubes could sort both these "minor" issues. Basically I have to get a little too far down on the pedal to get the main stack talking...The 7 tube is the next one down but this will be far too active as it's 0.019" thinner...Some progressive mods should sort it out.

 

Once the fuelling is PERFECT I shall go to the rolling road and optimise the ignition mapping...

 

Cars wants 12.9AFR @ idle...It idles like a turd at 14.7 (stoic), 12.9 is where the "best" IDLE SCREW setting leads you anyway, I have no interest in what the idle AFR is or leaning it out, just that the idle is optimised on each screw.

 

Likes 13:1 from 1000-2000 I think with some 57 jets to replace the 58 it might take 13.5here...

 

Seems happiest cruising at 13:5-13:8 in the mid ranges...likes 13:1 in mid range on light throttle pickup and up hills and likes 12.7-12.8 at WOT.

 

Not really any suprises, 14.7 maybe stoic but as with Triumph engine it doesnt optimised for carbs...probably go leaner with the spray pattern of an injector and better atomisation.

 

Graph shows 3rd gear from 5000-7200....

 

I need now to find a method of getting a constant 5Volts I can rig up one of the Renault MAP sensors I got on saturday and feed te MAP sensor data into the 2J1 and into the Laptop...I can see where my foot it then and load versus rpm and lambda...

 

Interesting stuff...

 

I ditched the 6 tubes, fine at cruise but they were going 11:1 or high ten's at WOT power and going way over-rich in the deeper throttle and rpm ranges....This was evident anyway by the horrible FART noise that came from the exhaust...No farting on the 5's.

 

I also did well in changing the BCPR6ES plugs for BCPR7ES, I think this has assisted...I was actually running the plugs that came in the engine, so these new ones feel the best of all 3.

 

So just the last few adjustments and then ignition and cam timing. I have adjusted the cams and found reasonable settings already.

 

Graph shows RPM running AT HALF SPEED !! so double it.

 

I need change some setting or right some code thing.

 

150/5/155 is just SLIGHTY too rich from 5900-7300, hitting 12.3-6 max WOT.

150/5/160 is just about perfect but due to the corrector is just slighty late on...

 

So 148/5/155 next.

 

Graph shows leanest 150/5/155 3rd gear WOT run...

 

 

Posted

150/5/160 perfect top-end from 6000-(7200)8000?! but still 5000-6000 lean off peaking at 13.6....All jetting has this mushroom lean out...

 

It does lean slightly at the very top to 13:1...

 

Hense I think 148/5/155 will be ideal :)

 

It minor and perfectly safe but it could be better....

 

Mixture is nice and flat at peak...

 

Wonder how 148/5/155 will shape up...

 

I'd be tempted to test 145/5/150 now...no 150 correctors though atm.

 

Fascinating to see in such detail the leftoffs from the combustion process!! These gauges are a great tool...First though you must also listen to the engine, no use setting this setup to be at 14.7 or stoic all the time, it runs like shit! needs more fuel than stoic, same as my 1300 that wanted 13:1 at cruise at all rpm! ...

 

I need to also do a long run from lower rpm, like 3rd gear from 1500rpm at WOT...to look at this lean mushroom 5000-6000 in more detail...I think I am past the pump jets at this phase of the acceleration.

 

After going from 2nd to 3rd the mixture has leaned off as my pumps need adjustment and come back in and then leaned out....but this could a 2ndary issue from the pump jet in some way effecting making the mains a bit jumpy. such as the fact the pump isnt big enough to support the sudden throttle opening, some backlash from this...Might just be the tubes as I said. The graph doesnt really show my pump jet issue too well, it's more profound at slightly lower rpm...

Posted

Dave, I'm not sure how anyone can follow that, so I'll just say that I've bunged my prop back on, and photographed my Azalea.

 

DSCN0614.jpg

Posted

Well appeared to have nearly nailed the carb jetting...

 

The probe has led to me somewhere I have been before but not in this combination..

rap

I mentioned it was always rich at cruise and seemingly needed to be...

 

Well I retested a much leaner idle jet holder 7850.8 or was that 9...The lean one anyway...

 

I was using 7850.1, the idle holder controls the light throttle airfeed for the idle/progression jet so effects the higher rpm progression mix... This 7850.1 was crap using a 55 idle giving me 14.7 AFR or so at cruise, I have been using 58 idle to get it to run nicely and progress ok, the end result is that the progression is ok but the cruise is too rich on the 7850.1 with 58 idle ......good here, bad there.

 

14.7 is what the new 7850.8 with the 58 idle is giving me but the new setting works...I can now cruise along at ranges from 14.5-15.7AFR at light throttle and motorway speeds...I expect a 20% fuel economy increase now...There is seemingly no downside to leaning it right out on this jet combo, it runs lovely and sweet...

 

What led me to test this idle holder was I revisted the 7 emulsion tube...I was using a 5, which is a later starter to the 7...I always use 7's in road going tuned spitfires...1300cc anyway. I use a half way modified 5 in the 1500, basically the 7 and 5 are the same thing but the lower section is thinner on the 7 so it wakes up the fuel part (lower feed) earlier than the 5...

 

I fitted 150/7/160 jet combo (main/tube/air) this was actually ok on the 7850.1 and 58 but it was evident it was well rich when you gently opened the throttle as the idle and main circuits were into too much overlap...power was ok but again a touch rich.

 

I fitted 145/7/160 and it was better at top-end as it leaned out but still overly rich at cruise going into mild acceleration.

 

So I then fitted the 7850.8 idle holder and 58 idle jet.

 

I logged this run as with all the others and studied the data..

 

I was aware instantly fromthe exhaust note than the acceleration was better and the overlap from circuit to circuit was improved.

 

I had a lean stumble from my persistant pump jet issue still but the overlying feeling was this worked and it leaned out the rich cruise to nicely lean levels and it ran well.

 

The 7850.8 is very holey and atomises alot, maybe this helps on the lean mix?

 

Anyway the 145/7/160 was perfect at the TOP rpm at WOT but still a tad rich when you got past the lean cruise and into a mild acceleration...

 

So I then tested 142/7/155, this proved the best and the marginally rich occasional areas of fuelling were improved and it was revving hard and mixture was sound all over really.

 

I have cruise from 1500rpm to 4000rpm in the 14.3-15.5 AFR. I have 13:1 when pegged at steady throttle from 5000 upwards. I have 12.7-12.9 at peak power...I have around 13:1 at mild accelerations.

 

To be continued....

 

BTW in laymans terms this means;

 

I had the main jet/power circuit setup "late", coming on late, relaxed....this needed a longer progression/idle phase to match.

 

I then used a more active emulsion tube to make the main circuit act earlier.

 

I then had to lean off the "longer" progression/idle phase to match.

 

So basically the "main jets" come on earlier in the throttle position now and the idle circuits shuts up earlier and as such the car is more RARR RARR and active to drive...(better)...

 

This worked well :)

Posted

I fixed the pump jet issue by refitting the original mechs/arms/rods...doh...

 

I needed a pump jet that was giving good release of fuel at lower rpm when moving the pedal moderately in speed to open on the throttle, this was to match my new leaner idle/progression setting and to match my more active mains (no great pump needed when mains are on), I needed NO pump jet active from 3500 upwards moving from steady/cruise TPS to light or heavy acceleration. I was just getting rich readings all over when accelerating from higher rpm...I was getting BOG from lower rpm.

 

I fitted some totally different arms and pump system cams before, these did the opposite of what I needed, they were lightly sprung and long movement, working up to 50% of the throttle, I knew these were giving me a rich condition when going along at high rpm in say, 4th gear. I'd be honking along with a light throttle opening, go to a big one and the exhaust note would go DEEP...On the new arms they can't really give any squirt there, there is no need anyway as the main and idle/progression is now good, the early 5 tube use was making it a bit too late, hense the need for a RICH idle setting .

 

I needed pumps with short hard sprung actiob with short throw...Basically so the pumps are nice and active in the first 1/8th of the throttle and not functional elsewhere once you've got past them. This way they assist my lean idle setting when just opening the throttle at lower rpm's etc but do not mess with the higher rpm areas when your open past the 1/8th throttle they work in...

 

Anyway I am on TINY 33 pumps now and they are STILL too rich, I can adjust down the quanity now I have no nose-dives going from closed to open throttle at any rpm...So the issue is fixed...33 pumps jets in 45mm carbs?! Shows there is a nice crossover and the circuits are nearly in harmony!

 

Car now rev's cleanly all over, feels much better at cruise for the lean setting, accelerates nicely from any rpm in any gear and even 5th from 1000rpm.

 

Not quite perfect, but near...

 

The setting is far more how I like it...The mains are nice and active and crisp, its nice to "dance" along A-roads, going from closed to open throttle and it's more what I have been looking for.  Gone is the roughish area I had been battling about 3000-3500, the area I put down to some exhaust harmonics or something...Exhaust tone is nice and even without any "rich farting". It's considerably improved. I'd hope for some good economy to come now...It's been a bit shit, but with 14.5-15.5AFR's at cruise it should be quite economical now!

 

There is tiny bit of richness here and there related to the emulsion tube.

 

I think ideally I need to mod some 5's...There is about 0.020" difference in the lower section of the 5 and 7. I think I could use a 5 with 0.015" off it or a 7 with 0.005" added, this would just shut up the slightly rich areas by deadening the signal a bit, the only rich areas are when you are going from a light throttle to a wider opening but not gaining rpm, consistantly trying to accelerate or hold power but not gaining revs?! Such as going up a hill when you go to a wider TPS to gain more torque...Past the pump jet, the mains are just a tiny bit too active on this 7 tube in a few areas...Its really meant for a 1800cc max really.

bly

I can't really fix this issue on the air or main jets...I think with a tube mod I can then find the perfect air and main jet settings...Being brutally honest the 142 main I forced into using could be very slightly richer at WOT...I can't use a 150 corrector inplace of the 155 as this effects not only the high end mix but the start point of the main jet stack...I am stuck on 155 to keep the mains quiet and I am stuck on the 142 main for a similar reason related to the immediate starting mixture when the main jet stack gets going...

 

So basically the tube is marginally too active and I am stuck in a jet window...By shutting the tube up a bit I can probably get more of a window....

 

Makes perfect sense?!

 

I can obviously swing the idle/progression around also...but to be frank thats all working well and it's nice and lean and still running nicely...

 

Engine likes the new grade of spark plug!

 

Actually I was pretty pleased with it all earlier, the engine has come on leaps and bounds by studying "telemetry"...I look forward just to tweaking out a few minor niggles, getting onto the ignition mapping, which I don't think is far out...Anyways, I drove it earlier and didn't actually think from a "driving" point of view it needed any further adjustment on the jets, bar the final pump jet adjustment to reduce the quanity a little, looking at the logging data I could clean up a few areas but I don't think they are causing any concern.

Posted

Useful thing a decent AFR gauge and a bit of logging...... :) Did all mine that way to the extent that little change was made on RR.  Took a bloody long time to get there mind - would have been fair quicker and easier to get straight on the RR I think but so much less fun and education along the way  ;D.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

Posted

With your EFI sure..easier on the rollers or quicker, Emerald quote 3hrs for a FULL map / ignition / fuelling!...

 

I honestly doubt I'd get anywhere near what I actually want from the carbs that way though?

 

Maybe in a couple of full days?....Most places won't even hold the bizarre idle holders I am using...I've never even seen an set of 7850.4 like I am considering testing!!

 

I want a specific feel from the engine and the throttle, thats just not something you can obtain on a rolling road (with carbs)! It's all about the part throttle delivery and cruise to power, the action of the acceleration/throttle and roll on acceleration...Any twonk can setup the WOT mixture, getting the transitions right is stuff to test the patience of even the most patient!

 

Dead useful, been looking at 3 traces just now pondering my next tiny tweaks!

 

Give you an idea of my quest for what I want?

 

(main jet/tube/air corrector)

 

I've tested...

 

138/6/155

138/6/160

138/6/170

142/6/155

142/6/160

142/6/170

145/6/155

145/6/160

145/6/170

145/6/180

145/6/190

148/6/155

148/6/160

148/6/170

148/6/180

148/6/190

150/6/155

150/6/160

150/6/170

150/6/180

150/6/190

150/6/200

 

142/5/155

145/5/155

145/5/160

145/5/170

148/5/155

148/5/160

148/5/170

150/5/155

150/5/160

150/5/170

150/5/180

150/5/190

150/5/200

152/5/180

152/5/200

 

138/7/155

138/7/160

142/7/155

142/7/160

145/7/155

145/7/160

148/7/160

150/7/160

 

Idle holders;

 

7850.10

7850.9

7850.1

7850.2

7850.8

 

Using 52-54-55-57-58 idle jets

 

;D

 

 

 

I wasn't really happy with any of the combo's above...  :-/ Till I changed stratergy and went into "odd" territory....

 

Posted

Re-wired underneath the bonnet to make it neater, re-fitted the painted hood frame and mounts. Re-wired the water temp sensor and fitted the new flasher unit.

 

God all these small things are such slow progress to getting the car back on the road.

 

Im not taxing it until everything is done.

Posted

I bunged my 'zorst manifolds and carbs back on last night, and I'll hang the pipes underneath her tonight. (The car that is).

Matt, I look forward to doing some small stuff mate! What's nagging me is the thought that at some point I'm in danger of having to put the soft top back on the frame. Ho hum. My Wisteria's coming out btw, but I'll resist posting a pic here, even though it's looking great.

Posted

Got another 12 months MOT on my car this morning :), its always a bit nerve wracking waiting for the test to end. I've now got to plan the gearbox and diff swap. Hopefully should all be done in a month or so. One of the rear wheel bearings has also started grinding away, so that is also on the list. Engine and gearbox getting hauled out in one, I seem to struggle these days if I try and pull the gearbox through the inside of the car.

 

Andy

Posted

New parts for the GT6s

New brake hoses for the Toyota 4-pot caliper conversion

Oilfeed lines X 2

Poly bush steering rack holders

Polybush rear A-arm rotoflex bushings

Valve springs for the new higher lift cam

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