What i've done to my Car this week!

[Nick B.]

The problem was partly getting it down there - and partly getting it past the firewall. I ended up kicking the box past the firewall (in a fit of anger - but it worked). Kicked on the bellhousing - no harm done.

 

I had the mad welder lifting the bellhousing from the other side - so the last few inches wasn't a problem. Slided in nicely.  I was just really pissed of trying to get the box to get past the foirewallm and get the mainshaft to the clutch. Still - the story had a happy end

 

The studs idea is good - I used it when I removed the box. You mentioned it back then to. A very neat trick.

 

Cheers

Nick

[JohnD]

The studs idea is good - I used it when I removed the box. You mentioned it back then to. A very neat trick.

 

Cheers

Nick

 

Ooops!  You know you're getting old when you repeat yourself!

I knew I'd given that advice before but not that it was to you!

 

John

[Royboy66]

Ive just been in the garage and put Battery on charge! as its a bit flat due to me not starting the GT6 for a while! :B

Its been pretty neglected so far this year!  Bit busy selling house/buying house!

 

Plan to give it a run today in prep for Next weekends Triumph Fest! 8)

[Nick B.]

Last night in the garage:

 

Tightened the last bolts on the bellhousing - it's a bitch to get at the lowest bolt, but got it eventually

 

Connected prop. Was to lazy to raise the car so crawled around on the deadcold concretefloor. Not very pleasant.

 

Finally swapped the soft as rubber stanbdard front spring with lharder and lower spring along with the AVO which has been on the shelf for a year or so. Only got to do one side last night, do the other next thursday.

 

Still need to bolt up the exhaust - had onough of crawling the floor last night so didn't bother to do it.

 

Hopefully next week: Front spring and shock, Exhaust. Then remove rad so I can get the pulley of for machining and attaching triggerwheel!

 

No pics this week

 

Cheers

 

 

[mark spit]

Drove it out of the barn it's living in to get someones caravan out, put a new map on the megajolt. Drove it back into the barn.  Will dirve it out again Tuesday or wednesday to weld up the floor to sill hole and rear inner arch.

Would like to redo the underseal afterwards. Hoping for a quiet work week.

Mark

[Nick B.]

Surprising amount of progress last night.

 

Task one: fit shorter springs and adjustable shocks to drivers side - only managed passengerside last week before I ran out of time. Was easy. No complications. Undo lower shocker bolt and lower trunnion. Remove old shocker and spring. Relase spring. Steal top hat. Fit the new spring and shocker.  Admire  ;D

 

Impressed by myself I started to removed radiator for the next task: Undo pulleynyt in order to rectrieve pulley so I can put the triggerwheel on it. Radiator itself was pretty easy to bolt of. But the hoses was as glued on. After a fair amount of swearing it all came of  

 

Next, the pulleynut itself. Tried turning it - no luck. Stuck on tight. Well done when engine was assembled last year....  Next move - let the starterengine free it. Worked like a charm  ;D  A few good wack with the starter and it spun of.

 

As I was obvoiusly on a lucky streak I went to the rear of the car with a lowering block in mind. I had forgot the block itself at home, but thought I could undo the spring. Usually not a funny task. But - both spring bolts came out nice and I could undo the 4 nuts on top of differential.  Everything is ready for next week (where I better remember lowering block!!)

 

 

All in all a very good evening in the garage. Spring is coming - depression is taking off. Life is good (knock on wood)

 

Cheers

Nick

[Mother Teresa]

Good progress Nick

Today I attempted your swear-at-it-too-death method and 'enjoyed' the thrill that is purging the Silicon fluff-fluid and bleeding the brakes with the new Castrol Responce. It was indeed a swear-a-thon. I ####in' hate bleeding the rear brakes! Martha made a good job of being my willing assistant, so that was nice .

Drilled out the Mintex pads and fitted them. Renewed the steering column UJ bolts as they were the wrong thread pitch(too coarse).

Also fitted the new NGK plugs and am impressed with them. They certainly seem more keen to provide the spark when requested, and not when they feel like it(Unipart).

Also repacked the front wheel bearings with grease and oiled the trunnions.

Nice day once the swearing got out of the way.

[mark spit]

Got the first of my welding done, made a repair patch for the inner arch, then discovered a stress crack in the end of the axle tunnel so had to stick another in that,  :-/

 

Didn't realise that I'd got some grinding debris in my eye though.  Gpt round the safety specs and my own specs,

Went to hospital last night having noticed a black spec on the iris, cotton bud wouldn't shift it but the needle picked it out.  

Don't want that again.............

full goggles from now on.

Mark

[SpitmkIIICPH]

cleaned/painted all bits ready to back in the saloon engine compartment... everything is now rust and dirt free and painted up..

primed engine bay today...

 

 

 

[Royboy66]

Started my GT6 today,after 3weeks!  :B

 

popped to the garage, put some air in the tyres!  Had a quick blast round the block!

 

 

Good to go for Sunday Bradley! (rockon)(c00 d00d)

[Jony]

i errm cleaned the bmw........

[Nick B.]

I managed to install a rear lowering block on the spit last night. What I thought would be really simple (still that naive yes!) turned out te be a 4 hours task. The rear suspension being a swing spring does not make matter easier....

 

I loosened the spring - lifted it a bit and tried to place the lowering block on top of the diff. Then putting the spring back on. Fiddle with diff studs (long type). Hmmm, something was defo wrong...  Toiook me about one hour to figure this out. Thought I just had the studs misaligned.

 

First I found out that either the spring were to wide, or the recess in the lowering block were to narrow. Either way - they didn't match :-(   Fettled a bit with a file, and in some 15 minutes it was (theoretically) suitable to go on the spring.

 

Back to the car - try to put the #¤%#/ bock on again. Turns out that either the stud on the spring isn't properly centered - or the hole in the lowering block is to small.

 

Block out - find the file - enlarge hole. Another 15 minutes gone. Swear a bit. Drink a cup of coffee.

 

Back to car- hooray. Block fits on spring.  At this time I was easily distracted, so when a mate came by I took a break.

 

One hour later - back to block. Now the challenge were to get the studs past the block and down into the diff housing.Not easy as the block is shorter ythan the diff, so there is really nothing to go by.

 

Eventually I had the spring/block and diff holes lined up. Studs went in fairly easy. Then washer and a nylock. Voila - car is now half inch lower - in just 4 hours - which makes car going down at the terrifick speed of  0,00000197285353535 MPH. ;-)

 

Cheers

Nick

[Jony]

ok that makes everyone i know whos fitted the lowering block have to flie the bastard out! : youd have thought something as simple as that you couldnt get wrong eh? lol just imagine what more tricky part are like  : ::)lol

[Nick B.]

ok that makes everyone i know whos fitted the lowering block have to flie the bastard out! : youd have thought something as simple as that you couldnt get wrong eh? lol just imagine what more tricky part are like  : ::)lol

 

 

My thoughts exactly! They did manage to get the studholes right though (abit surprised to be honest!!)

 

Cheers

Nick

 

[GHR630]

yep, i bought mine some years ago from Jiggery-Pokery and i had to drill the centre hole (there wasn't one) and file the relief channel for the spring so it would all seat properly. My point always about this stuff from most of the usual culprits is that they never have a continuous improvement programme or fix issues. We Beta test the stuff and they never incorporate the changes. It's just not professional.

[Nick B.]

I have two blocks - a 1inch block from jiggery. And a half inch block from CC. The cc block is significantly cheaper.

 

Both suffered from the same faults. The jiggery block was machined - I cannot tell whether the cc block was machined or cast??

 

Cheers

Nick

[Nick B.]

In defense of the blocks - I woulds say I prefer the relief channel to be to narrow. It is easy to remove material - you cannot add material. And the springs probably are not that precise either. Still - it is a bit annoying to have to midfy all the stuff that is alledgely a "bolt on" thing

 

Cheers

Nick

[mark spit]

Fixed the hole I found just before the RBRR in the vertical sill side ubder the floor, started out at 2 inches and ended up at 15, shame it's only rust can do that  

 

Next job, refit the seat, do some underseal / waxoyl underneath and get it MOT'd (after March 20th).

 

Mark

 

ps no injuries this time, though welding upside down is a bugger.....

[mark spit]

Had to weld the tube that the bolt from the outer footwell corner goes down through the outrigger onto a new bit of plate and back to the rest of the outrigger,  :-/

Shutzed the rear arches, black waxoyled all the underneath, clear waxoyled everything else and sent it for an MOT yesterday, which she passed.

Next job, make the exhaust quieter, thanks to GT6_Sleeper on that front... (thumbsup) and fit some of GTs plasma plugs...

 

 

Next next job, give it some welly............. 8)

Mark

[DaveNotSoSideways]

Lifted out the bleeding engine! I did find my gearbox tunnel can remain in situ when the engine and box are removed, which was a relief (although I did make it so that would be ok ;D ), also that the engine bay valances can stay put and no need to remove to the radiator ducting.

[GT6_sleeper]

good work dave

[Royboy66]

great pic !

[SpitmkIIICPH]

Saloon aka Big T aka The Ferry now has a brand new MOT ;D back at the welders for final repairs- rear corners and center rear edge of roof..

yesterday removed trim and pulled back headlining...

 

planning the rest of the rebuild... have all the parts for a rear susp overhaul incl new harder springs and dampers / poly bushes...

[Nick B.]

In an attempt to improve braking I have fitted Mintex brakepads to the front of the Spit. To avoid glazing of the pads I decided to bust the surface of the disc.

 

So caliber of, and start rubbing with rough sandpaper. The disc have a slight blueish/brownish tint which dissapperar after a little rubbing with grit150 sandpaper.

 

 

 

Ideally disc should be machined, but time is short, havent got the hardware for it and really didn't want to disturb the bearings.

 

After a while (10 minutes each side of disc) disc had got the right slightly rough surface, and all the miscoloration had gone - clear silver!

Next find pads - mintex at the left, Countys finest at the right (500 miles wear on them)

 

 

 

 

I fitted the anti squeel shims, and slammed the entire bit together.

 

 

 

 

Job done.

 

 

Daniel R. (aka SpitmkIIICPH) came by and dropped off a much needed lift. It is more rusty than rysty, but will hopefyllu clean up nice and work. A lift is defo needed. I can't get under the car anymore. I say it's because car has been lowered - some says it's because I am getting old and fat!

 

 

Anyway - here is the solution. Just needs a lot of care and grease/paint/slight repair

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Operating thingy

 

 

 

Cheers

Nick

 

[PeteClan]

Work continues on the new race Clan.  This weekend the wiring was done from scratch for me by a former forum member.  She certainly knows her car electrics and a lot more!

 

Pete Richards