Nick Jones Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I'd been looking at the various Sieg resellers in Aus, but they all seem to want you to open your wallet pretty wide for what you get. C. That seems to be pretty universal for machine tool parts sellers, especially hobby sized stuff At least you got a pretty good head-start on the buying price though! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Ouch. 465 quid for a flywheel. Don't think I'll be going there. But I will need a flywheel for the 2.1 screamer. The donor motors a non recessed 2000 from a 71 MkiII 2000, and I suspect has a heavier flywheel than I want. There's no native GT6s or Vitesses natively in Aus, just special imports, so I'm unlikely to find a GT6 flywheel locally. I'm not trying to build a race motor. I'm trying to build an excellent fast street motor. Top speed isn't the aim, I live in a modern world with draconian penalties for speed. Acceleration is a big aim, there's no rule about how fast you get off the lights... So my flywheel options are: 1, Do nothing, stick the MkII flywheel in. 2, Lighten the existing MkII flywheel 3, Use something like This from TTV 275 Uk pounds, shipped to Aus, 3.8 kilos (thats 8.404 lbs) 4, Source a GT6 or Vitesse flywheel O/S, and wear the cost of shipping it to Aus then whack it straight in. 5, Source a GT6 or Vitesse flywheel O/S, have it lightened, then ship it to Aus. 6, Other... So I'm after the thoughts and help of the Sideways community on this one. Whats the best option for a high revving EFI 2.1 pushing a GT6 away from the lights? Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Don't think the saloon flywheel will fit in the GT6 bell housing - certainly an issue with some clutch makes. Also it effectively moves the whole clutch assembly back 1/2" so will mess up the release mechanism unless the thrust bearing carrier is shortened to match. The Vitesse/GT6 flywheel IS what you want. They are nice and light to begine with and will work with the transmission that you have. You could still lighten it a bit if you wanted but for a road car it's pretty much right anyway IMO. I think that a GT6 flywheel is pretty much the same as the GT6 one with 1/2" shaved off the clutch side...... and the clutch bolt holes deepened and retapped and the dowel holes deepened. I have a Vitesse one and 2.5PI (which is probably the same as the 2000 one) side by side in the garage so shout if you want pics or dimensions. The Vitesse one will be going on the PI as part of the W58 conversion at some point..... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Cheers Nick, I was mixing up my homeless engines, the 2000 comes from an auto, so doesn't have a flywheel! Dho. One question re the Vitesse one is what exactly does it weigh? Turned the 2000 engine from this to this Mostly good, except the rear crank bearing, which was u g l y ! Cam and block are at an old school shop recommended by a couple of friends, getting a good wash, old schools bath, and measure, and being prepped to be fluxed. If good, the crank will then be vibration tested. Bad news is the visual on the head showed a crack leading into one of the valves. More investigation needed. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofast2race Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Don't think the saloon flywheel will fit in the GT6 bell housing - certainly an issue with some clutch makes. Also it effectively moves the whole clutch assembly back 1/2" so will mess up the release mechanism unless the thrust bearing carrier is shortened to match. The Vitesse/GT6 flywheel IS what you want. They are nice and light to begine with and will work with the transmission that you have. You could still lighten it a bit if you wanted but for a road car it's pretty much right anyway IMO. I think that a GT6 flywheel is pretty much the same as the GT6 one with 1/2" shaved off the clutch side...... and the clutch bolt holes deepened and retapped and the dowel holes deepened. I have a Vitesse one and 2.5PI (which is probably the same as the 2000 one) side by side in the garage so shout if you want pics or dimensions. The Vitesse one will be going on the PI as part of the W58 conversion at some point..... Nick Hey Nick - can you remind me the difference in flywheel thickness between the Vitesse and 2000 flywheel - ie the amount I need to add to my saloon release bearing carrier. I know you told me but its been lost in the cyber space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 The last thing I need is another "oh shiny" distraction. But the Aussie peso is currently at a high that makes it hard to ignore parts for the future, and having got an offer too good refuse, I've sold some skydiving gear that used to be a cost centre, thus freeing up some cash... So. I've rebuilt and/or am rebuilding every part of the driveline from the fan to the wheel nuts except the diff. Lots of options in the "change it out for" camp, be it datsun, scooby etc. My insurance is already hurting bad from the "non-triumph" mods. So whats tempting me are this http://www.motorspor...l-p-269100.html and one of these http://http://www.ca...xsl=product.xsl I'm not looking for a race car, I want a good/great handling fast road car. The LSD should help get it off the line well. The quaife's main reported foible I can find is that if you break a driveshaft, you're stranded, crap on a racetrack, less so on the road. Losing weight is always good, but the front/rear weight ratio on a GT6 is a constant battle. I can't figure out if the weight loss is worth it given the ratio increase. Any thought/suggestions/warnings from the more experienced? C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteClan Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have a Quaife ATB diff fitted in my Clan. Whilst this is a race car it is also road registered and unlike when I had a plate LSD fitted it is a very smooth acting device with no snatch etc. It also performs on the circuits smoothly. Would recommend to anyone. Also has a very good guarantee. Pete Richards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHR630 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have a Quaife ATB diff fitted in my Clan. Whilst this is a race car it is also road registered and unlike when I had a plate LSD fitted it is a very smooth acting device with no snatch etc. It also performs on the circuits smoothly. Would recommend to anyone. Also has a very good guarantee. Pete Richards I have the same experience as Pete with the Quaife. "Experts" often claim it isn't really an LSD. I use my car for road and track and find it unoticable on the road and a real improvement on the track. It doesn't need rebuilding every five minutes either like a plate LSD. ANother point to note is that a plate LSD can turn a car into an understeering monster. They have to be set up with a ramp that suits the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Just make sure you aren't lifting wheels and the Quaife is fine, like the broken shaft. Quaife relies on two wheels being in contact with the road. Not a great issue really, bar super steep uphill hairpins or if you are driving like a total psycho over curbs and doing alot of flying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I bought one of those alloy cases for my Herald's new diff, and it is beautiful. The casting's nice, the cooling fins will be appreciated every time it goes up on a hoist and the machining is first class. The diff should be ready to pick up tomorrow fromGreg Tunstall's, with new crown wheel & pinion, bearings and seals to replace the one which died when the oil ran away! I thought about a Quaife diff, but with a Herald's horsepower it didn't seem necessary. No way will 80-odd horses start spinning wheels in a road car. My GT6 has a Subaru LSD though, which should make for an interesting comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Which sort of Subaru lsd is it? I believe they come in various flavours? That ally casing is machined ok is it? Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have the same experience as Pete with the Quaife. "Experts" often claim it isn't really an LSD. I use my car for road and track and find it unoticable on the road and a real improvement on the track. It doesn't need rebuilding every five minutes either like a plate LSD. ANother point to note is that a plate LSD can turn a car into an understeering monster. They have to be set up with a ramp that suits the car. I fitted a quaife diff to my EFI Gt6 in 2003 mainly to prevent eplosions I have to say it has been 100% reliable despite my efforts. I did notice a difference on the road though track use as well, she powers out of corners far better than the notoriously weak open diff. I have owned LSD equiped cars before and I much prefer the very progressive Quaife. Seriously contemplating buying another for my other Gt6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 My Subaru diff is a 3.7:1 LSD, apparently out of a Subaru Leone. I'd like a longer ratio for a Triumph 6 but that's as long as they go. To be honest I'm not sure what type of LSD it is, but it can't be too vicious if it came out of a road car. I hope... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSTEVEMKIII Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I'm pretty sure the bug eye Subaru WRX STI's use a 3.54 diff ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Yep, there is def a 3.5 ratio one. I keep nosing through the bay, but it is not easy finding out of the diff is an LSD or not, and the vast majority are 4.1 I think a 3.7 would be ideal for my car. I think. Or maybe a 3.9... off to play with mintylamb now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSTEVEMKIII Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Something like this would do the trick, though I think they can be found cheaper. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Impreza-rear-diff-lsd-models-wrx-2001-2008-3-5-1-ratio-/120857455285?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c23aa6ab5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 off to play with mintylamb now I really should put some advertising on that site if people actually use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Pop quiz for those more knowlegable than me. With the car on stands, I chocked one wheel, put it in forth gear, and pulled out the plugs. I then lined up some tape on the fender and the unchocked rear tyre, and turned the engine over by hand. I cant get my head aroud the numbers. Forth is 1:1, but if I turn the engine over 10 times, the single moving wheel goes around six and a bit (lets call it 6.15) times finishing here What diff ratio do these numbers represent??? Help! C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 one wheel will turn twice as many times as 2. So, 6.15/2 approx 3.07 10/3.07=3.25, so I would guess 3.27? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Turn the wheel round and count how many times the prop goes round for one turn of the wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Tried it again. This time I turned the crank till I'd rotated the wheel twice. 3 crank rotations, plus 97(ish) degrees. 97.2/360 = 0.27 So, dammit, confirmation it's a 3.27. Sooo... the search for 3.63 or 3.89 gizzards begins. C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Just spoke with Chic Doig - He's chasing down a possible 3.63 set for me. Fingers crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Chic is really good, top bloke and will try to help as best as possible. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 He certainly is. Chic's found me a "really, really nice" 3.89. He's trying to figure out what else I'll need with it. Planning on going with the CC alloy rear case, and the Quaife, so I guess it's bearings x 3, seals and gaskets, and a bucketload of shims? Anything else a first time builder needs other than directions to leave it to the pros? C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 IIRC the very late 3.89 had a stronger carrier, worth getting I would think? Or was it just some of the 3.63 that had that carrier? memory playing up again..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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