Nick Jones Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Ingenious. Probably be fine. Keep an eye on it though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted May 29, 2021 Share Posted May 29, 2021 Most ingenious. Impressed. I also like that clever beading tool from the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 I can report that I have just had a couple of hours spirited road test in the Derbyshire hills. the temps are all good. oil now typically 80c and coolant is 85 to 93c only rising to 97c (were the elec fan kicks in) when I need to wait at junction or lights ie not moving. And I have been “making progress” the oil pressure has altered a little only when oil warm now. above 1500/2000rpm it 50psi (was 70). above 3.5/4K rpm it’s 70psi. hot tick over it’s about 35/40 psi ( was 50) I attribute these hot drops to warmer oil thus not as thick. oil temps come up to working temps faster . and the pipes stayed on - bonus- so all in all as an experiment I’m happy . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 I’d call that a success Maybe I need to revisit this...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 Nick I believe I was in blissful ( literally) ignorance about low oil temps ever since I had the car and the PO had the car for 40 years before with an oil cooler and no stat. I fitted the Ali sump that had the temp sender boss. So fitted a temp sender and saw what I took to be low oil temps. can oil temp be too low ? I thought yes as it doesn’t drive off moisture. my breather (diy) was obviously capturing some evaporate as the sludge that came out was ‘orrid. i feel I can now actually remove the air/oil cooler from infront of the rad and let that have full flow. crazy but all this may change when I have my new even faster road spec engine and webers fitted. Shhh that bit is a secrete !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 3 hours ago, Hamish said: i feel I can now actually remove the air/oil cooler from infront of the rad and let that have full flow. I would be concerned about whether the CW system is capable of cooling both engine and oil now? Easiest way to check is to remove it, and watch your coolant temps. If they increase over a good drive, or you see the fan kicking in whilst under way then refitting the cooler with a thermostat may be required? Definitely a route I will be going down myself, I have a fair chunk of Alan's setup awaiting back at home! I am planning both heat exchanger and cooler together, I already have the cooler fitted so only need to plumb in the heat exchanger. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 Hi, I know nothing about hill climb. I guess it is Short term high HP with legal vehicle speeds? Fan assisted oil-cooler would not dump "High power" into the coolant. Always wanted to fit an oil-Coolant heat exchanger, but just for thinning the oil when cold. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 I can see why you are doing it but for a road car i wouldn't want to mix the two fluids like that. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 So far the oil doesn’t get to water temps so the net heat flow is from water to oil. My run today was intentionally high revs ie holding 2nd and 3rd top 4krpm for longer. and it wasn’t hotter than it usually is. iain You are right sort sharp power runs for sprints and hill climbs. And hopefully in excess of legal speeds. Red It seems to be standard procedure to use the heat exchanger method mine is a Jaguar XF gearbox oil cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Maybe I need to reset my thinking? Then again I don't do many short runs like you do and it's warmer here. Anyway nice clips, I like them a lot. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) Hi, What oil temperatures Are we getting during an event. 100c+? Peak? Duration? Interested in when heat is transferred to oil & water. I guess at high load its mostly oil to water which sounds good to me. Water to oil when cold. Cheers, Iain. Edited May 31, 2021 by spitfire6 added water to oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Iain even at sprint events I don’t see oil temps anything like 100c car is warming up for about 20mns off and on before each run. The coolant come up to temp reasonably quickly but not the oil. Then the run is less than 90s ! went for another run in the countryside yesterday. Glorious weather lots of country lanes thus not fast or Revvy and the coolant was predominantly 85/90c and oil about 70/80c so the net heat flow should still be from coolant to oil. there will be variants between the 2 gauges as one is 60year old capillary and the other 1 year old capillary but close enough when tested before fitting. fan only can on when we stopped for an ice cream (heat soak) I would have expected to see the fan on a few times on a run like that but no. the oil pressure characteristics have changed though and to me this is another indicator that the oil was too cold and thick ! it was 50 at idle and 70 over 1500/2000 rpm. That was it. as posted above I see a lot more variables now. I am hoping this is good flow which I think is better than just high pressures. but I will keep an eye on it. next sprint 3 sisters sprint at Wigan 13 June. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Why not try a lower viscosity oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Could have been a simple answer !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, Hamish said: Could have been a simple answer !! A3B3,A40? Edit. A3B4,A40? What I should have typed. Edited June 2, 2021 by spitfire6 edit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 I don’t need a massive oil spec as it’s probably changed annually with VERY low mileage i like my valvoline VR1 mineral. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 TRIPLE QX Fully Syn 5W-40 A3/B4 - 5Ltr is around £20. Less after any discount. Better than VR1 everywhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 1 hour ago, spitfire6 said: Better than VR1 everywhere? ZDDP content? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted June 2, 2021 Share Posted June 2, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: ZDDP content? "1000" Zinc (%) 0.110 Edited June 2, 2021 by spitfire6 added Zn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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