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Engine build help request . Please..


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If it fits I might have to swap over the dry sump system to keep chassis cross member clearance . 
Also I have an ally Davies Craig water pump and controller so OE pump will have vane removed . One less pulley to fit in if running with the new 124 block .

In fact I am not counting out running the alternator off the prop to help with clearance with reverse head situation .

i should have said , there are trigger wheels , TPS and other sensors coming out with the Omex .

Apart from a good spare Volumex or two I think that is the most of it . If I think of anything else or find anything else I will list it .

I will speak to dome builders around Brands Hatch tomorrow about testing the head . But no doubt that will take a week or two .

Any thoughts on anything now welcome even if it is negative . Thank you . Matt

 

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In fact this was his answer ,

Hi,
 
Yes, we had heard of Guy's post and decided to have the C&B cams independently tested for hardness when we originally received them.
 
At the same time we also had some stock and some Kent Cams tested.  They were all in the same range, the hardest one being the stock Fiat cam, then the C&B, and last the Kent (which Guy used to use, not sure about now).
 
Thus we are confident that they will perform well.  We've sold them for two years now we no problems.
 
 
Sincerely,
 
Csaba
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I just popped into F1 Moto opposite Brands .

Nev , the owner is clearly a very talented engine builder/fabricator looking at the four projects ongoing around his shop including the eastern fully caged racer you see in the pic and a very tasty fully worked 911 V8 on a spit in the shop .
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There were numerous laser cut/welded beautifully engineered chassis suspension and engine parts he was keen to show off many produced from some very impressive CAD drawings . 
He suggested just doing volume checks , leak check , removing valves just to check for any obvious flaws and then looking at valve clearances before using . Time to order a  burette . 
Oh and never would have guessed it but the guy he was talking to outside with his Porsche Boxterish type , it turned out he had just refitted It with a top spec Tesler system . Who would have thought ?!
Sadly the old Italian Porsche/Ferrari boy who lived in the next road to me , Tony Bianchi , previous owner of P/F dealerships/workshops , ( who did a lovely job on my FG top conversation to targa type ) who I last saw a month or so ago , when he told me he had a serious concern with a possible cancer issue passed away .

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Strange but having recently been watching out for any signs of him on passing his place , the only indicator was Debra telling me she had seen what appeared to be two guys clearing his garage out .
How odd then that on seeing the 911 v8 today I asked Nev if he happened to know Tony . He declared that he had known him for twenty years but that he had passed away two weeks ago ! 
On telling him that Tony had done my conversion he said that it was him and his son who had been clearing Tony’s garage out including a Porsche project of Tony’s and numerous moulds for Porsche racing wide body front and rear ends because Tony had sold his business on to him just prior to his passing . 
small world . Thank you Tony . generous man

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I can not help but think that the years of fibreglass dust and associated chemicals did not play a part in his demise . Nev agreed .

 

 

 

 

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On 8/7/2020 at 5:44 AM, Spit131 said:

I am only too happy to contribute for all the advice I shall hopefully receive but is that function actually working ? Did not seem to be but as I said IT is on a par with engine building for me .

I can confirm that the Donate buttony/linky thing does work!

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/donate/make-donation/

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Donation sorted hopefully . Thanks .

Yes BiTurbo , noticed his garage open this afternoon was expecting Nev but turned out to be some of Tony’s family ( Naples ) including his very similar looking brother so I just stopped to say ‘ sorry to hear ‘ .

I took a couple of valves out of the head this afternoon and so far all looks good to this amateur . Valves seem a very good fit to guides . Must be a nightmare to achieve . Anything of note from the pics would be appreciated but I guess until the burette and dial indicator turn up pics are not a lot to go on . All feels SMOOTH and balanced though .

please let me know if pics need to be of a certain size as I could not see anything suggesting so , thought may be your impressive system dealt with that ?

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If this is a good head I can count myself very lucky at £650.00  .

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1 hour ago, Spit131 said:

If once having buretted a cylinder on the head if I then remove the perspex cover plate and stick a hairdryer on the inlet port and then the exhaust port with the fluid present and watch for bubbles is that sufficient for a valve leak test please ?

Guess so? But to be honest, your kinda testing the wrong way, all that is proving is the strength of the spring.

Easier method is to ensure that exhaust and inlet ports are completely dry before buretting. After finish simply wait for 10-15 mins, should be no liquid coming through (a small leak will show up very easily!!).

Phil

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Hi Phil ,

You have made me think about this now .

presumably leakage is referring to power/exhaust strokes so on power stroke combustion helping to keep both valves shut whilst also testing the slightest gap remaining on either valve and on exhaust stroke testing any gaps on inlet valve ???? 

Edited by Spit131
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Hopefully it works in my favour , how lucky If I am right !

Designed to keep DCOEs clear of front block passenger side distributer but on reverse port I think it will put throttle bodies further away from bulkhead which is needed as rear of block sits behind bulkhead line .

It is confusing as I look at the thermostat housing and think front of block but of course it is at the rear of block on this . Relief !

Might need re-routing of brake clutch lines .

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Sorry Phil , I think you might have misunderstood me or more likely I did not explain well . I read that if you put the head upside down and fill a chamber which has both valves ‘ off cam ‘ or cams removed from head and then ideally use an airline to blow air up through the manifold ports towards the closed valves through first the Ex port then the In port whilst watching to check for any bubbles appearing from around the closed valve that should work ?  All though surely it would make more sense to turn the head the right way up/on its side so that you could fill the port up and then use your burette Perspex plate held against the head face and use the air line to force air into the empty chamber whilst watching down the water filled port for signs of bubbles escaping from the rear of the valve would make more sense ???

Edited by Spit131
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2 hours ago, Spit131 said:

Going back to leakage , if my thinking were correct I guess using the thinnest ( there is a word for it ? ) liquid possible  is best . Correct ? Any suggestions if so ? 

Paraffin is often used. And just fill the combustion chamber, leave it and see if any leaks past the valve seats. You could very lightly lap the valves, check the seat is narrow and consistent. But should be fine, all the engines look as if they have been worked on.

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I prefer to use "liquid paraffin", because 'real' paraffin gets everywhere, and I hate the smell, which lingers.

Liquid paraffin is a water soluble oil, that wets the metal, plastic or glass surfaces easily, so avoids trapped bubbles, is odourless and easily washed off the tools and work afterwards.    Also it is non-inflammable (it will burn, but not easily!) and non-toxic - it's main use is as a laxitive!   In fact the easiest place to get some, in 100ml bottles instead of 5L cans, is your pharmacist!

John

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