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Ex-Racer Spitfire Mk1 Rebuild


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Thursday's weather actually turned out better than the forecast, dry, light winds and even some occasional sunshine.

Having been bitten the previous attempt I decided to put the gazebo up anyway but wasn't needed.

Used up the last 1/2 litre of primer but at least I had enough to get a decent coat on, especially on the areas where I rubbed through the first coat and the sidelight. And realised that I had forgotten to form the dummy seam lines between the top panel and quarter panels.

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Got it rubbed down again today.

Pretty pleased with it. The area round the sidelights was within the thickness of the paint and most of the other areas flatted out nicely. Couple of areas on the wings both sides and on the top of the bonnet and a (hopefully) small amount of filler needed along the reconstructed 'crease' at on the passenger side.

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With any luck one more coat of filler primer will do the trick. I've ordered more and hopefully we'll get another break in the weather. Mostly dry and sunny in Weegie today, and weirdly warm too but pretty strong winds from storm Kathleen.

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Posted (edited)

Well I managed to do a 'Nick Jones' and put my back out on Monday. Been lots of medication, stretching and walks round the park trying to get it mobilised again.

Today it was actually possible to move about a bit and as long as I avoided bending seemed manageable. So as left it the bonnet was ready for another (last?) coat of the primer I had ordered at the weekend and arrived yesterday.

Paint time then... after I put in fake seam lines in the top panel.

Lot of thinking about how to do this as it's a 3D surface with variable hardness due to some being filler and some GRP and with the radius to the headlight. And the lines need to be 'straight' and of a uniform width and depth. And the two sides need to be visually similar.

In the end I decided to make up a double template from thin aluminium to form an inner and outer edge for the 'seam'

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These could then be stuck to the bonnet with double sided tape to to act as a guide for a needle file.

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Do one side, remove the guides, flip over and stick to the other side in mirror image.

Slightly scary but seemed to work. Difficult to be abslutely sure with the different shades and textures but once the paint is on it should be clearer.

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Now time for paint. Tomorrow is forecast dry but windy and anyway I think the back needs a bit more time before I'm humfing heavy stuff about.

Frustrating. :mad:

Edited by Escadrille Ecosse
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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the next coat of filler primer on and rubbed down and then needed a fourth (and final) coat.

And the final rubbing down.

Light all all over with the dry 320 grit on the long board to make sure it was all basically level. Then wet sanding with 400, 600, 800 and 1200 grit. A few very small areas where I've gone through the primer but we can cope with that.

Now I'm half way through finishing off with the DA polisher. It's primer so I'll never get a perfect finish but good enough to take the mould (and hopefully release properly afterwards) and I can get the final polish to full shine in that.

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Then I can start on applying the would release and wax.

Materials for making the mould all got delivered the other day. In those boxes by the bike. At last getting somewhere.

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I must say that after all the time, effort and expense (no doubt?) you have expended, I would be most reticent about taking it out of the garage to expose it to the ravages of the general 'motoring' public! :ohmy:

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This really is an inspirationally detailed and laborious job.

The effort going into this buck (or mould, or whatever it is) suggests some bitter memories of imperfections in previous work, perhaps? Or just a serious case of perfectionism :laugh:

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

This really is an inspirationally detailed and laborious job.

The effort going into this buck (or mould, or whatever it is) suggests some bitter memories of imperfections in previous work, perhaps? Or just a serious case of perfectionism :laugh:

Thanks Pete. There probably is an element of perfectionism there but the cost in time/money isn't that much greater to get a part at least as good as the factory than one that looks like a 'cheap glassfibre' copy.

Although time consuming it's much easier to get a decent finished article on the car starting from a good mould and it's much easier to get a good mould off a good buck.

Basic shape aside, getting things smooth and shiny also makes separation of the buck to mould and then mould to part considerably easier and less stressfull as well.

And unlike steel panels which can be finessed a bit afterwards to match sill lines, etc. GRP and to an even greater degree carbon fibre pretty much stay the shape you made them.

Some bitter experience with 'cheap glassfibre' copies probably contributes to this too.

8 hours ago, andymcp said:

I must say that after all the time, effort and expense (no doubt?) you have expended, I would be most reticent about taking it out of the garage to expose it to the ravages of the general 'motoring' public! :ohmy:

Yeah, always a concern but what can you do?

My first Spitfire, a 1972 Mk IV had a rather badly warped GRP bonnet. This was 40 years ago and I managed to acquire a good steel bonnet off a rear ended 1500 write-off, fitted it to the car and got the whole vehicle resprayed by my cousin's then boyfriend who ran a paint shop.

Two weeks later car was hit by a bus which took the new bonnet off the car. Fortunately everything above the front bumper was essentially untouched, so a pair of upper wishbones and a repaired radiator and the car was good to go again the next weekend once I refitted the hateful GRP bonnet.

C'est la vie :sad:

At least with this build I have the moulds to make replacements...

 

Edited by Escadrille Ecosse
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Two coats of chemical sealer and six coats of release wax. My arms hurt, but at last it's ready to start prepping for taking the mould.

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After much pondering I have come up with a plan for the mould. Essentially it will be one main section with a single split line all round the lower edges, wheel arches and grille panel. This gives maximum strength with minimum flash lines to deal with.

Slight concern that because of the returns round the front quarters it's not a straight vertical 'lift out' of the finished part but having done a reduced version of this in making the buck from the steel bonnet I'm 99% confident it will work. Removing the buck which is much more rigid than the final part will probably be the hardest but there are ways to deal with this.

First I need to turn the bonnet over to start adding the correx sheet mould flanges. Need to do this a couple of times making the mould without resting on edges or bumping the finish in any way so made up a poor man's rotisserie for the job.
 

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And started on the correx. Big area at the rear edge is where the infusion vacuum will be applied and gives plenty of space for the resin brake.

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Nice not to be rubbing down for a while...

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