michaeljf Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 Hello all, A couple of photos of the drive shaft "fix" attempt. Maybe I had better start a new thread for this bit ??? Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 This does look like a project in its own right! And an interesting one. Not sure there is a direct European equivalent to the Commodore. Possibly the Vauxhall/Opel Omega or the earlier Carlton. I’d be curious to see a few pics of the diff for comparison. Is this a known path in Oz? I’ve see the Japanese R200 used in the US (Goodparts) and also BMW, but not this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 Hello Nick, Will see how I go at starting a new thread for this part of the rebuild. The Commodore started out as an Opal. No as far as I know it's a first. My son is using the same set up for his Datsun 1600 rally car (with Datsun 4x4 front diff),his suggestion to use it on the Triumph. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Hello all, We are in "lock down" at present. The Commodore drive shafts won't work (2mm to large diameter in cv) so have gone for Nissan Silvia but because of "lock down" can't get all the parts and some of the machining at the moment. Have a small parcel from Rimmers just arrived with some diff seals,keys,rear brake bits and an oil filter adaptor so will be able to get back on to the front part of the car....when we get out of "lock down". The first two pictures are the two Nissan hubs/bearing carriers and Triumph hub and backing plate,the third is the Triumph hub (broken ,one of twins). Regards,Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 Hello, Well a bit of a re-start. The oil filter adaptor for the motor move back (I hope). the other two of the start of replacing the oil seals and keyways in the inner end of the drive-shafts. regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Hello, I have pulled the "diff axles" and found out why they have different part numbers! Also one needs a complete replacement, it become loose on it's keyway and worn the axle and the flange. I have a MK 2 2.5 P.I. diff that I will use a "set" from, just have to get them apart (my mates 20 ton press isn't interested) and put the new seal and keyway in. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 8 hours ago, michaeljf said: I have a MK 2 2.5 P.I. diff that I will use a "set" from, just have to get them apart (my mates 20 ton press isn't interested) 20 tonne ought to be enough….. normally takes about 12….. big scary bang! Hateful design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Nick Jones said: Hateful design. Excellent design for the bean counters, must have saved a farthing or two over the cost of a spline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Hello all, Can relate to the big bang. Going to run the Covid gauntlet and go to the mates place (other side of town) with the 2.5 ones (he has been trying one of the TR ones ) and see if we have any better luck with them. The reason for the different part no's is that they are different lengths! one is 73mm r h 95mm l h from the bearing face to the end of axle shaft. And all this for a seal. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 Hello, Well we got the big bang a blood. BIG bang (from the TR one and two little ones from the 2.5PI ones) all for the sake of a couple of seals. The sedan ones may have been OK....but that close so replace them anyway and will use those two in the TR. Have pictures but am still thinking about a separate thread for the drive shafts. Regards, Michael. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 Hello, Well finally back to the motor end. Have the motor back in AND the engine mounts done up! Now have to make some gearbox mount brackets and shorten the tail-shaft. Have taken some photos of the motor with the done up engine mounts but have to work out how to shift them from there to here. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 Hello, Well I finally got that to work. Maybe some more after tomorrows efforts. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 Hello, Well to fit the "spin" on oil filter and housing I have to move the clutch slave cylinder! Starter motor on,Slave cyl. on (then move to fit spin on filter) Radiator and hoses on, Alternator on. And finding some misplaced nuts and bolts (as it has been quite a while). Cut the tailshaft to shorten (as I have moved the motor back "about" 40 mm.and down äbout" 15mm. ) More soon. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 Hello, A picture of the cut tail-shaft and a couple of the L/H swing arm (note the crack, about 2" long). Had to heat the tail shaft to get it back together + welding. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Trailing arm crack is a worry…… replace or weld? Replace would be my preferred…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 Hello Nick, Yes replace might be the best but....Hard to come by in these parts and how much better would it be. Will see how it looks after some welding and plating. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 27, 2021 Author Share Posted October 27, 2021 Hello, Here is a photo of the shortened tail shaft. Hope to refit it tomorrow. Then some g/box mounts! Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 Hello, They say a picture tells a thousand words?.. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Hello, A couple of photos of the welded trailing arm and they found a second crack as in the second photo but $320 later... plus the new Superpro bushes. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Nice job that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 Hello, The $320 was for the welding, I did the bushes. Yes it is nice welding. First picture is of the second g/box mount (not very clear). modified mount (it is in a US spec. 4speed non OD car) now fitted with a sedan J type o.d. box and mount plus the motor/gearbox have been moved back 40mm and down 10mm. The second photo is of the new oil filter and it's very close (not very noticeable in the photo) association with the clutch slave cylinder. (have to move the slave cylinder to remove the oil filter!) The oil filter adaptor is fitted because of the rearwood move of the motor. Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Can you not rotate the oil filter adapter a little to move the filter away from the slave? Or is there something else preventing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljf Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 Hello Nick, I have rotated it a bit otherwise it wouldn't fit at all, and I imagine it is supposed to be vertical (which it isn't now) Regards, Michael. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escadrille Ecosse Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 Michael. The angle doesn't really matter from a functionality point of view. I have an adapter on the 6 cyl car. Filter is set horizontal and works fine. On the Spitfire of course the filter points up! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 I have the same adapter on Vitesse and GT6 where the chassis prevents the filter pointing downwards. They both have the filter roughly horizontal, even slightly upwards on the Vitesse. Works fine so long as a filter with non-return flap is used. In your case, anything with the filter pointed mostly down wards and missing all obstructions will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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