michaeljf Posted February 25, 2021 Author Posted February 25, 2021 Hello Chris, Was a very long time ago. Used a shorter bolt and the crank damper was a two part bit. Will check when I go back to my sons w/shop. Sorry ,thanks for the comment about the thread. Hope it is useful to someone. Regards, Michael.
Nick Jones Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Chris, I’d think the fan extension delete could be done using parts from the 2.5 saloon or even Vitesse/GT6. The damper/pulley arrangement is modular. I think the basic pulley/damper is the same for all 2.5s then a selection of add-ons including additional pulley (for PAS), fan extension or plain fan bosses in various thicknesses.
Chris W Posted February 25, 2021 Posted February 25, 2021 Ha ha Nick, It's 40 years since I've had a Vitesse (stupidly, I chopped it in for a Mk1 Capri) but I've no idea whether the basic pulley is the same. However, I was looking at the one in the 2500 Megajolt thread and it appears different. on the TR6 the crank nose protrudes through the pulley so you need something to bridge that, for the bolt to have any clamping effect. The fallback would be to turn down the extension to leave just the base but I was just wondering on any other solution. As I say, there are kits offered by Goodparts and Patton Machine but both in the States. I imagine shipping would be quite pricey. Cheers Chris
michaeljf Posted February 26, 2021 Author Posted February 26, 2021 Hello, A couple of photo's might help. Regards, Michael.
Chris W Posted March 1, 2021 Posted March 1, 2021 Hi Michael, Thanks for the pictures. Your lump of metal looks like it might be an original Triumph part, along the lines Nick was suggesting but its hard to tell without seeing the outer face where the bolt inserts. I could achieve something similar by cutting the extension down and machining the outer flat but I think the resultant hole would be bigger than the bolt hole! Cheers Chris
Gt64fun Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 Chris I slimmed down the fan boss on my GT6 to make more space for a sucker fan. Material needs to be removed from the engine side of the boss to preserve the smaller hole. See attached. Ian CrankPully.pdf
Nick Jones Posted March 2, 2021 Posted March 2, 2021 On 2/26/2021 at 10:09 PM, michaeljf said: Hello, A couple of photo's might help. Regards, Michael. Yes. The pulley itself is the same for all 2.5 (2L has a smaller damper and the actual pulley is part of the hub, not the damper). Then the nosepiece which is interchangeable between 2L and 2.5L and comes in several thicknesses, plus at least one extended form for the TRs. There is also a second (PAS) pulley available that fits instead of the nosepiece which in turn comes in two forms depending on fixed or viscous fan.
michaeljf Posted March 7, 2021 Author Posted March 7, 2021 Hello, I did originally set the "spacer" pully up to photo both sides but on the second photo it fell over and when I re set it I put it around the wrong way. Will post another one tomorrow (they are all original Triumph parts 2500 PI?) Have got the " new" pushrods back and will fit them tomorrow.(had to make one complete new one) Regards, Michael. 1
michaeljf Posted March 9, 2021 Author Posted March 9, 2021 Hello, Have the pushrods fitted and adjusted, made and fitted a w/pump housing gasket (the sheet of gasket material was $46) and fitted housing /pump to motor. Making a big bore manifold gasket today. Have some photos (inc.crank pully)but am having a seniors moment trying to get them from that part of the computer to this part. Regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted March 10, 2021 Author Posted March 10, 2021 Hello, Well here is the picture of the "spacer bit with the other side showing". Regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted March 10, 2021 Author Posted March 10, 2021 Hello, finally managed to "find the photos" that I talked about above. Working on the manifold gasket. Regards, Michael.
Chris W Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 Hi Michael, thanks for posting. Your spacer looks like it's machined steel, rather than cast iron so I suspect it isn't Stanpart. By the way, your rocker assembly looks very smart. Shame to have to cover it up!!! Cheers Chris
michaeljf Posted March 11, 2021 Author Posted March 11, 2021 Hello Chris, I will do some more checking. It did come off a Mk2 2500 PI (that I bought to use the motor in the TR, The car had been rebuilt, but apart from the rear end and the rev counter +motor, is now land fill on my nephews property). Regards, Michael.
Nick Jones Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 7 hours ago, Chris W said: Your spacer looks like it's machined steel, rather than cast iron so I suspect it isn't Stanpart. They are machined though not sure whether cast iron or steel. 95% sure that is a standard saloon part. I will see if I can find one. I think the basic shape is used across the range and common to 2.0 and 2.5 but there are different thickness depending on model to set the fan/radiator distance.
michaeljf Posted March 11, 2021 Author Posted March 11, 2021 Hello, I was thinking along those lines also. Regards, Michael.
Chris W Posted March 11, 2021 Posted March 11, 2021 OK, thanks for the comments. You both are likely to have more experience of this than me........which is why I asked
Nick Jones Posted March 13, 2021 Posted March 13, 2021 Found some examples today THis is one my spare 2L, suffix ME from a late 2000 saloon. The boss is 25mm deep (probably 1.0") This is a spares box stray. Also 2L, but an early one with the smaller diameter pulley used on dynamo equipped cars. Vitesse I presume. The boss is 32mm deep (probably 1.25") GT6. This one is much thinner - probably 1/2". They all have the same bolt pattern in the front and are interchangeable, the only difference being thickness. 2L and 2.5 interchange but the pulleys don't. (well, they physically fit but the damper characteristic will be wrong and the timing pointer in the wrong place.
Chris W Posted March 15, 2021 Posted March 15, 2021 Thanks Nick, Useful info. The nose of my crank protrudes no more than 10mm. Let's make this the last post on this subject, I'm a bit embarrassed about hijacking Michael's thread! Cheers Chris
michaeljf Posted March 16, 2021 Author Posted March 16, 2021 Hello, Fine by me so long as someone learnt something! regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted March 18, 2021 Author Posted March 18, 2021 Hello, Well a bit more progress. The spacer cut out for the rocker cover and some bits to make the collector for the extractors. Regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted April 5, 2021 Author Posted April 5, 2021 Hello, Put a camera/light on a flexi arm in the back of the motor (near main bearing) to check clearance between big end and sump baffle as I thought I heard a little noise when turning motor over to adjust tappets, but all appears good (about 3mm clearance). Made a shaft to attach to drill to turn oil pump over to prime motor. Hopefully get welding done tomorrow on rocker cover spacer and collector on exhaust. Regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted April 6, 2021 Author Posted April 6, 2021 Hello, A couple of photos to add to the above comments. Regards, Michael.
michaeljf Posted April 19, 2021 Author Posted April 19, 2021 Hello, Finally got the rocker cover spacer finished (12mmX12mm square aluminium) .Just about ready for a bit of oil pump priming ! Regards, Michael.
PeteStupps Posted April 21, 2021 Posted April 21, 2021 Very nice, have you got a gasket underneath the spacer? When I came to fire up my first rebuild, I used the electric drill technique for priming. But half-way through I had the "genius" idea of spinning the engine over at the same time, to ensure oil would get distributed everywhere. Then of course no.1 piston was no longer at TDC when I came to refit the distributor, and I wasn't sure if it was on the compression stroke. Basically it took ages to get it ready to actually fire, and then when it didn't start easily I was convinced the timing was 180 degrees off...
michaeljf Posted April 21, 2021 Author Posted April 21, 2021 Hello, There will be, and a silicon one under the rocker cover. Hopefully some paint on things this morning then bolt on sump and then prime the oil system then..... regards, Michael.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now