Vitesse Mk2 Exhaust Manifold

[Mark]

Hi all

 

Finished the collector and secondaries just got to fit hangers and a pipe from the secondaries to the back box. Tight getting the secondaries threaded through the chassis to the collector but got there eventually.

 

Mark

[triumphlux]

Your secondaries go all the way to the diff !!??

That will be VERY tight in between the chassis rails.

Have to say that it all looks very proffessionally done :-)

[GT6Steve]

That looks somewhat familiar.................

 

http://s206.photobucket.com/user/GT6Steve/media/pipework/pipework045.jpg.html?sort=2&o=13

 

 

 

[Mark]

Did it make any difference to performance having long secondaries? I read the secondaries should run to the end of the gearbox but I've gone a bit further. I was going to run all three secondaries to the back box something I may try once the car is up and runing. 

[GT6Steve]

Let's just say I haven't put the other pipes back on....

[josh18]

It just keeps looking better and better!

[flatter4]

Lovely looking exhausts.

Steve, is yours ceramic coated?  If not what is the finish?

 

I'm looking for something firstly durable, and secondly thermally good (for keeping heat out of the carbs).  Any recommendations (and guidance for price)?

 

Will.

[JohnD]

Interesting thread on exhaust insulation over on CT.

I was sceptical about ceramics, Jonny-Jimbo has actually used some, AND measured the effects, which were significant.  We agreed that if you want to keep heat in the exhaust pipe for faster gas speed, it works where a heat shield might not (but Jaguar use one for this purpose),   and that unless you had F1 type money - or got the ceramics free like JJ did for his Formula Student car - the cost per degree of a shield is orders of magnitude less.

http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl?m-1463178497/s-27/#num27

John

[GT6Steve]

I did the ceramic coating to the pipes and the weber manifolds to keep out of the intake area.  I percieve that there is less heat but have no data.  Mine are looking a bit rough after twenty years so I'm going to redo them soon.  And the price seems to have gone up enormously!.

[Nick Jones]

Ceramic coating is effective.  It's also fiercely expensive (in the UK at least) and this apparently has alot to do with the cost of the basic powders.  My informant is a guy from a localish company (Poole) who developed the original process as used by Zircotech.  He was trying to sell me coating services for pump parts at the time.  Had another in on Wednesday but they don't do exhausts......

 

I'm resigned to not having it.  The EFI is less fussy about temperature anyway.

 

Nick

[Mark]

Hi all

Trying to pick up where I left off and makihg another 6-3-1 manifold for my Gt6 that will eventually get a 2.5 fitted. I originally intended to make three whilst I was in the swing of it, making consistently nice bends at the time. I had some pipes with initial bends already made from last time but instantly ruined them when I tried to add other bends. I had Lost whatever technique i  had developed, but starting to make progress now,  Definitely not like riding a bike, but gradually getting better results again.

One of the difficulties is getting the round tube squared off in exactly the correct position at the correct downward angle, a couple of mm out at the head means 10mm out at the end of the primary where it's intersecting with the other pipe. Trying to keep primary lengths the same, missing all the obstacles and getting them to thread between the chassis and sump is challenging.

After I finish this one I was going to use a slightly larger pipe for the primary and was considering keeping it round and welding it to the outside of the flange. I can't think why it should have any effect on flow, as long as it follows the same dowmward angle of the exhaust port.

What's your thoughts?

 

[Mark]

Something else I forgot to mention, I had some flanges cut out of 10mm mild steel, and made sure that the drawing was as accurate as I could. The position of the stud hole is crucial as it positions the flange over the exhaust port. When offering up the flange to different heads and different ports on the same head there is a deffinate descrepecy in how it marries up to the port or not. The studs are straight so the ports must be off and defiantly not semetrical. The closer I look the more different the ports look compared to each other. As the engine I am using is just being used as a jig, I will just tweak the flanges to suit, so should then fit any engine. When  I decide on the head I will be using on yhe 2.5 engine I will grind out the ports to  match the flanges on the next manifold.

[Mark]

Got side tracked, but over the past few months I've been finishing off the second manifold I started a while back. Decided to make it a bit more complicated as if it hadn't been tricky enough already, and add anti-reversion chambers to each primary.  I intend to fuel inject and use a different cam, and thought anti-reversion chambers would be beneficial.

Just got to add a piece onto the collector and decide on the diameter of the single pipe to the back box, on the last one I have 3 secondaries merging near the diff, and then clean up the welds.

 

 

 

Edited January 30, 2020 by Mark

[Mark]

Didn't realise the photo had disapeared when I tried to make the file size smaller. 

[Nick Jones]

Wow. I dread to think how long that took...... I still have set of flanges I made sat patiently....

[Mark]

Took a long time, not helped by stopping and starting to work on the Vitesse and remembering where I left off. The manifold was virtually finished when I decided to rewind, cut up the primaries and add anti-reversion chambers. This ended up being a remake, and not just a matter of splicing in the chambers as initially thought. Additional clearance was needed which threw out the spacing and angles. 

Reversion chambers have different size ends for the outside and inside diameter of the primaries, and hopefully shaped in a way to catch and trap any exhaust gases going the wrong way.

Not sure how effective this is going to be and won't know for a year or so as I am planning on using the Vitesse as much as possible this year.

 

[Mark]

Thought I would finish off the collector part of the new manifold I built a while back. Probably won't use it for a year or so as the one on the Vitesse fits and works well. Didn't fancy trying to bend 2 1/2 pipe that was only a foot or so long, so decided to have a go a pie or Lobster cuts to achieve the desired shape.   Pretty straight forward and easy to cut and tack together.

My mig welder is great but want neater welds and less cleaning up, so I bought a basic Tig welder a few months back, and intended on practicing on this,  but as I have nearly a full bottle of Argonsheild (BOC) to use,  this will be Mig welded. I may then order pure Argon bottle, which I can use with both the Mig and Tig welders. Not going to pay through the nose for a disposable bottle of Argon. Just need to fully weld it up and put it to one side until I eventually fuel inject the Vitesse.

[Nick Jones]

That came out well. Once again, I don’t want to think too hard about how long it took.

Pure argon and MIG welding is not a good combination for steel or stainless steel.

Have the same issue now as my Pure argon TIG bottle is empty and should go back to BOC...

[John I]

10 hours ago, Mark said:

 

That looks like a piece of art, very neat. Did you cut the segments with a band saw?

Came across a company called "hobbyweld" recently not used them( nor associated to them) but they appear to have plenty of agents around, not sure how they rate cost wise against  BOC. I should add having looked at when Mark posted that they are uk based.

Edited April 11, 2020 by John I

[Mark]

1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

Pure argon and MIG welding is not a good combination for steel or stainless steel.

That's a pain. I've rented an Argonsheild bottle from BOC for years for the Mig.  The refill lasts me probably 3 years, think its a size Y. Don't really fancy paying rent on another bottle, just for the Tig. May look into some larger disposable options for an Argon bottle, see how I get on with the Tig and go from there.

I watched a 'how to' video on YouTube, several on there. Pretty straight forward to make the cuts once everything is marked and set up correctly. I used an abrasive chop saw. Took longer to clean up th burs on the segments than to cut 10 peices. A metal cutting band saw is on my wish list. 

[JohnD]

11 hours ago, Mark said:

MOST impressive work, Mark!

But you can buy right angle bends off the shelf!

Save yourself a LOT of work!

Edited April 11, 2020 by JohnD

[Mark]

Hi John

Really quite easy to make the pie cuts and I have lots of offcuts of pipe to make use of. Took approximately 10 minuites to mark up the tube and cut. Cleaning up the burs took a bit longer.

I have bought bends in the past and a couple of 3" steel doughnuts more recently to cut various angles for my mx5 turbo project, but to be honest I could have saved £40.00 using this method. It's easy to mock up with single tacks and tweak the route by twisting the idividual segments.

Not sure if I like the appearance though, reminds me of the flexipipe I used to buy to repair rusty exhausts 30 odd years ago before I could weld.