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Everything posted by flatter4

  1. Using a blowtorch on your steak isn't so daft - sorry a little off topic, and potentially upsetting to the non meat eaters (switch off now)..... Heston Blumenthal did a wonderful series some years back: "how to cook the perfect .........". Steak was the topic of one episode. As usual for him some of the specifics were impractical, but the principals are sound. I found these links to the highlights of the TV show. and part 2:
  2. Good luck Pete. Let us know how it goes. Be careful with your choice of top hose. I bought a brand new one and the first time the car got hot it ballooned out and sprang a leak: ..and it wasn't overpressurised. All is fine now with a NOS hose fitted.
  3. Here's a further recommendation for them (down near the bottom of the diary - Wednesday 10th July): https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/rallying-cry-liege-brescia-liege-classic-car-rally-diary/?WT.mc_id=tmg_share_fb
  4. I truely can't recommend Regency Autos enough. Peter Baldwin (Mini racer, SU guru) was going in 2 days a week to help / train on their rolling road - this was 2019, so phone and try and book a day he's in. Lee Deegan runs the rolling road and is damn good too - he's picked up plenty from Peter. I would (and did) trust him with my car. Their website doesn't give much detail, but if you scroll back through the facebook posts you'll see that plenty of classics pass over the rolling road. https://www.regency-autos.co.uk/contact-us 01223 324 050 enquiries@regency-autos.co.uk Regency Autos,120 Church End, Cherry Hinton, Cambridge, CB1 3LB
  5. It's a sport! We need to embrace it as mind exercise....... As you say Nick, you only need one. One person who you can mutually console to an agreeable price. You both feel comfortable. ...though I've made stupid money selling scrap through Ebay. Also struggled to sell genuinely good kit at bargain prices. Cheap car selling is a particular joy. My son is currently being educated in the art selling a 2010 BMW. Anyone interested.....
  6. I'm a lover of making a mechanical system work - that's art. EFI / megasquirt are beautiful too - but in a different way. You could always graft in a Honda VTEC engine - lots of screaming hp - but that's a different game. Decide what you're after. .......neither is wrong, it's what suits you.
  7. or.... take it to someone who knows how to set these carbs up. Mine was a revelation after a proper rolling road set up. Not much was changed but it meant (in order of priority): - I could run full throttle with no concerns on engine durability - the engine pulled throughout the rev. range - more hp....... It's a dying art setting up SUs - I have a great recommendation in Cambridge........
  8. Key is that you know it is safe to run - and not about to melt anything. .... and that torque curve is lovely. I'm with Nick on the timing - anything over about 32deg. (10:1 CR) caused a power drop on my 2.5 litre. The great Peter Baldwin set it up, and the first thing he said was that these engines won't want more than low 30's as max. advance. He was proved right after the first couple of runs. Maybe you guys with fully mappable fuel and ignition can run a bit more (and perhaps the 4 cyl can take a bit more?).
  9. Damn, driving myself nuts here. Just realised that 175/60R13 could be the tyre of choice - slightly reduced rolling radius over my old 185/60's and look at the price of these: https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Nankang/Ultra-Sport-NS-2/175-60-R13-77H/R-391113 only £45 for the Nankang NS 2. Not as radical looking as the NS 2Rs, but the Nankangs (as Michael says) seem to be thought as good (in the dry) - the MX5 drivers seemed to like them at Blyton trackday. Does anyone here have any experience.......?
  10. I don't think the Maxsport are available as 13". My shortlist with today's prices- please add / comment as you see fit. All 185/60R13 Avon CR28 sport £130 https://www.westwalesrallyspares.co.uk/avon-cr28-turbospeed-tyre Dunlop CR65 racing - no exact match, but I'm told they are beautifully progressive in handing - about £220 Yokohama A539 £78 fitted, blackcircles £72, my tyres Nankang NS 2R £65, Demon Tweeks £68, my tyres Toyo R888R £93, Demon Tweeks £95, my tyres
  11. I ended up with some very cheap Toyo NanoEnergy 175/70R13. They are OK, and have allowed me to shake the car down. While I like the tall sidewall look, and think it's appropriate for the car they did touch everything on the GT6. My fault as the car was set up around 185/60's - I should have kept with them. I'll be going back to this profile at some point. Not sure if the Toyo's are any good in the wet (never been out....), but they do squirm a little in the dry - probably the tall tread blocks. They survived a few laps at Blyton, but the fronts were certainly showing the stress. The diff gave up before my son managed to completely destroy the tyres......
  12. Not quite as exciting as the first start - but close! Send us a pic of it in, so we can all celebrate with you
  13. Cross drilled crank. Nice, but why? (I'm looking for a debate here....!) I think early production would use it because the accuracy of the long gun drilling would not necessarily be set up in a refined machining process. The cross drilling could allow some error (drill 2 ways: main into the big end journal 'well' and big end surface into the 'well'). I'm not sure it was done for performance reasons? ....but it does give some performance advantages. As I see it this would be nice perpendicular oil feed from a 'well' in the centre of the journal. Plus oil feed for the big end could be placed at the optimum radial position. Can't recall all the science here but you would feed the oil in just before the point of maximum pressure (a bit after TDC). Not sure that that is what has been done here? Perhaps the main oil drillings are one long straight drilling all the way from main to big end which trashes my theory...... Any other thoughts? It leaves you with a nightmare cleaning job though John! Cheers, Will.
  14. On a (trying to be) positive note, how many hp did you get from the engine? ....and what increase are you looking for from the new engine!
  15. Beautiful job on the thrust washers Roger. Well done John, what a shame. I feel for you, frustrating / time consuming / expensive. As Nick has indicated, and I'm sure you're on it, but understanding the root cause is vital. Did the BE lose clamp (bolt), bearing rotate, lose oil pressure...... Is there any indication on the bolts as to the failure? I can see one section in the pics with a slight bend, so that one was probably the second to fail (though could have bent from an impact when flying around) The fact you had 4 hot rods does tend to indicate a lubrication failure though - and No. 6 was hot too, so I don't think an oil 'balance' pipe would have made much difference. Thrust washer wouldn't have caused such a gross lubrication failure either. ...look at the pump and the filter. As with everyone else on here I'm happy to look at pics and comment, but I know receiving these comments is sometimes rather annoying - so sending sympathy. Will.
  16. I'd use the old clutch - they did make them well in the 'old days'. ...but do check the fingers for wear. Any step there will make smooth feeding in difficult. I'd also try and seak out a quality release bearing. I've seen lots of wear on a pattern part.
  17. As all have said: a real PITA. Chris Witor sells different size inner seals to try and manage this. I had my adaptor inner face re-machined to make sure it pulls up on the outer seal, with small clearance on the inner. As I recall the outer recess varyed in depth around the circumference too!
  18. ...and the plugs usually come out fine, you need a good allen key and a sharp tap with a copper / hide mallet helps.
  19. An air line is near essential in getting the block clean, clean, clean then clean again. Aerosols of carb / brake cleaner are good too. A great engineer I used to work with once said all should be clean enough to assemble on the kitchen table, with no negative comments from the other half..... Perhaps the test should be to scrub it down with your toothbrush before brushing your teeth with the same brush....
  20. Healthy looking cylinder pressures. It's perhaps worth looking at the oil seals. The inlets are the more critical as engine vacuum will suck oil down (you probably only have inlet seals?). A good test is the overtaking manoeuvre.... floor the throttle for a few seconds with the engine at high speed / high load, then back off the throttle completely. Spirals of blue smoke from the exhaust show the oil being drawn down the inlet guides. Have a friend follow behind to watch / film the behaviour It sounds like you'd have the advantage of seeing and comparing the results from front and rear cylinders with your exhaust arrangement. Oil seals can be changed without removing the head as I'm sure you're all aware. Nylon string stuffed into the cylinder will allow you to depress the valve cap to remove the collets with the valve reacting against the string.
  21. Try nipping the bolts up. The sump joint can relax and you loose the clamp on it. ....but be careful with the central ones, they go into the aluminium crank seal housing - and have a habit of stripping.
  22. Arrrrhhh, no that was just sent too early. See first message on this page for a retyped reply. I would guess that behind the car would be a negative pressure when you're running at speed. It would be an interesting science project to measure pressures in front of and behind the rad. to see what happens. Probably a simple U tube manometer would do it (though you need a pitot tube to measure properly) - but you'd need a passenger / lab assistant to take readings while you're driving! The rad. at the front of the car is better - lots of forced air feed. Perhaps someone on here could loan you a wind tunnel for half a day!
  23. ..that's for a fan to work, but what happens to the aerodynamics and the pressures in the car and in the 'wash' behind is beyond me - as GT6Steve says; getting a large delta P across the rad. (hence large air flow) is key. Both with fan switched on and at 155 mph......
  24. John, What have I committed to giving a reference for? Sorry, juggling too many things here! Push or pull shouldn't really matter. Key is to minimse radial tip clearance - so run the fan as close to the cowl as you dare diametrially. You're in a good position as there is no relative movement between fan and cowl (not like an engine rocking on its mounts with a rigid chassis mounted radiator and cowl). Only thermal expansion and a bit of vibration to deal with. With a puller fan (air from outside; across rad; then to fan) the rule of thumb is that 2/3 of the fan blade width should be inside the cowl: For a pusher fan (air going the other way) the rule is only 1/3 of the fan width to be inside the cowl. Sorry sketches are not to scale! I'm not an expert in fan design but practical experience shows these rules stand to reality and produce near optimum air flow (hence cooling).
  25. Fantastic. Ever heard of the method for unsticking: - Push car to solid wall and put soft tyres / brankets between car and wall - Jack up driven wheels - Start engine in gear and warm up - Push clutch down and apply brakes - If brakes aren't enough rev engine and have a friend drop the jack as quick as possible What could go wrong? Clutch will disengage or engine will stall. or........
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