Aar0sc Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) It runs; I can get all gears; everything that worked before this happened works now (bar the radio; but that's because it's not fitted ). So: Bonnet on Then fill up the radiator and reconnect the headlamps (rather hard as the bloc had rusted pretty much solid :? ). Then the gearbox tunnel (easy) piece of carpet (piece of cake) then the radio holding bit (which holds up the dashboard (which has sagged because I drove it thirty feet :roll: )) which was REALLY HARD (OOOOHHHH MAAATTTRRROOONNNN!!!!!). But seriously what a bastard of a job. And it ripped the carpet. And only one of the four bolts is actually in at the bottom :roll: So I moved onto the grill and underriders - which; inexplicably; is held on with two 7/16ths bolts and two 10mm bolts... And fitted the numberplate - which is totally straight; and as level as my ride height Also; whilst looking (with great anger) at the gearbox a frame thingy I shorted a wire with a spanner; in order to check if my "FASTEN BELT" light works - joy of joys it does! And fitted all the vinyl spongy bits and a seat; then went for a spin And stopped at the local garage (which was, oddly, open and being run by a rather attractive blonde) to investigate the odd noise I kept getting when I let off the throttle :? At this point it also went from running ok above 800rpm to not idling at all; no matter what choke or throttle it was giving it just stutters and doesn't do anything below 1,500rpm; then suddenly picks up and shoots off; so you release the throttle in an attempt to bring it back down again and you're below 1,500rpm and it won't pick up again and tends to stall. Good thing I stole the Toyota's battery or I would have been very stuffed! Aaron Edited September 10, 2011 by Aar0sc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Bit more work done tonight; need to buy some more lights - the one I've got needs to go back to it's owner now he's back from holiday! Anyway; mild lack of floor here; no flash and underlighting (thanks to light mentioned above) shows it rather well... Hmm... So I cunningly hid it with some carpet... Checked the seats weren't leaking too much.... And fitted a passenger seat Then I got some soapy water and some 1200 wet&dry, and set about my paintwork on the rear wings - far, far easier than I expected, a real difference took about five minutes and it feels so, so much better! Now I'll just need to borrow a mop and some G3 shizzle Aa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 Sorry if any of these are sideways, the laptop's on it's way out and under no circumstances am I buying a new one, so it's going to last! STOP OVERHEATING! Thank you! Anyway, whilst doing that inevitably bad repair to the honda, I whipped off the two rear shocks and popped one new one on Typical Spitfire pose, couldn't resist! Nice rear Ready to go on; it's rather tight! Other side, old one popped off after dad attacked it. Useful occasionally, dad Spot the difference? And hooked on :razz: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted November 15, 2011 Author Share Posted November 15, 2011 nice bit of success today, got the brake union off, along with that little bit of pipe that needs replacing... and a slightly longer bit of pipe that also needs replacing! Lovely union.... :? Cruddy little clip... need to get some more! Might end up replacing this aswell New union's different! feck Drilled through the bracket, didn't thing it was going to work, then spotted a little wiggle in it - stop drilling, whipped out the hammer and out it came! Then more good news came when the shock absorber slipped on and everything was good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Making progress Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted November 19, 2011 Author Share Posted November 19, 2011 Making progress Nick Wish I hadn't bloody started, quite frankly. Should have left that crappy brake hose on, where it was causing no problems, and just had it in the back of my mind as a "I'll replace that when I do something with the rear suspension" thing; instead of having to do so much as every single blasted thing it attached too was rusted solid. But anyway.... All on; tightened and clipped up Slightly worried about how well the long brake line is held onto the chassis; it looks secure but I don't trust it! Can't wait for the trackday on Monday though (although I hope someone's bringing a welder...!). Aa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Well; the piano's been a bit off sounding recently, so, utilising my 3/8ths ratchet and a smallish socket, I set about... wait, I mean: The Spitfire's been running pretty dreadfully recently, mainly because the carbs are HS4s, not the HS2s a 1300 normally has, and they're set up for a 1500, not a 1300. So, utilising MintyLamb (http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/?page=sutune.htm) I set about it. This required me to warm the car up, so I pootled up the lane, then back down, pulled into the garage and did all the stuff with the linkages, the idle rates, pieces of rubber tubing etc. Then, after checking it all again, I went up the lane to see if I'd made a difference - much improved. However, as I came back down the lane, a balding bloke was standing at the side of the road, staring and pointing at the front of my car - I stopped, and asked "Has something fallen off?" Him: "This is a private road you know" "yes, I know..." "Do you live here?" "Yes" "Well then you'll know that there are walkers and dogs here" "Yes...?" "Well you can't use it as a race track! Use the A3!" "I'm hardly racing, I've not done more than 20mph - I've just finished tuning it (engine cut out at this point, as if to emphasis it :razz: ) and I wanted to check it'd worked" "Don't try it with me sonny. I've got an Aston Martin, I know what speed's like" "Then you'll know that this car isn't exactly speedy?" Bitter look from the bloke. Me: "Sorry then", started up and drove off... Hmph. Lovely people down my lane. Same bloke asked similar questions to dad - the Toyota clearly isn't the kind of car for this area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Utilising Mintylamb Just realised yours is a 77 — like my first Spitfire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Utilising Mintylamb Just realised yours is a 77 — like my first Spitfire! Very useful, Mintylamb It's not running perfectly, but the plugs are the right colour and it's idling happily at 950rpm (any less than 850 and it'd start stuttering, and at 800 the oil lamp came on quite brightly...). And yep, November the 7th 1977! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Just after the first drive in ages last night: One bit of the carpet I was given, can you spot the difference? And after some cleaning READY TO RUMBLE! (Preferably without catching fire/breaking down/loosing brakes etc). And some freebies I've been given! Tuning will continue on Tuesday; warm it up with a drive to Haslemere, then ColourTune it, set the dynamic timing, then play about with the dwell meter. Any tips? Also need to get the fuel tank reasonably empty so I can sort out the fuel sender, as it must be bent; it only registers a full tank as half a tank, and half a tank as nothing... so the last half of the tank you don't know how much you've got! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 (edited) Got some tax ( ), tried to fit the hardtop, failed repeatedly, put the soft top back on, and went for a drive Sadly I think I've lost the trust I had in it, it's incredibly hesitant between 1000rpm and 2000rpm, to the point that, when I pulled out in front of a truck earlier (it was about 700 yards away) and put my foot down, I got absolutely nothing, for about four seconds, and had to slip the clutch, build up the revs and let it out again to go anywhere! (Which was scary!). Back home, after some very sidewaysiness due to leaves/Spitfire's shear pooowwwwwaaaa, I set about giving it a damned good tune. First I set the timing with this Neon timing lamp. Not very good, you can't actually see it, I turned off all the lights and then could see anything! Next up with the Gunson ColourTune: Started off looking too rich: Ended up with all four like this: Sadly, whilst I was fine tuning the rear carb the revs suddenly jumped to 5000rpm! ARGH! turned it off pronto, looked at all the connections - nothing jammed, so I started up again - straight to 5000! ARGH! Air filters off, disconnected the throttle linkages, wound the jet screws right up to the stop, marked the flat that faced me, then wound them down two and a half turns (factory settings). Started it up, fine again... So I dunno what happened, and I don't know how I fixed it, but it was blooming scary - rang Mark for advice, he reckoned I'd dislodged some crap in the jet? Balanced the carbs again with a piece of washer tubing, then came inside, as I didn't really feel I was getting anywhere. Also this kept happening: AH! Aaron Edited December 21, 2011 by Aar0sc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Try a new/different oil pressure switch before panicking. They can fail in this way. Oil pressure gauge would be good though - even just a temporary arrangement so you can see what is really happening. You want to see 10psi plus at HOT idle (though 5 or 6 psi when really hot on a well used engine is not a cause for immediate panic) and 40 - 60 psi at 2000 rpm hot. Idle is 750ish rpm not 1200..... if you've got less than 10 psi at 1200 rpm..... you've got a problem. Check and set points gap before doing the timing. Currently available points are crap with soft plastic and wear fast closing the gap up. Simon BBC or similar EI recommended. Regarding the revving - take a look at the various breathers and make sure they are secure. Fiddling with the jets can affect the choke linkage and the fast-idle cam. Some HS4 carbs have poppet valves in the butterflies which are supposed to prevent high vacuum in the manifold on the over-run but the springs get weak and don't hold them closed properly. Usually manifests as engine speed taking a while to come down to idle during normal driving and a lack of engine braking. Your patience is admirable btw! Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 It won't idle at much less than 900rpm though. Although when I was playing around after the sudden revving it was sitting at 800ishrpm with the oil lamp off :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 It won't idle at much less than 900rpm though. Although when I was playing around after the sudden revving it was sitting at 800ishrpm with the oil lamp off :/ Most likely the switch then - though the comment about the relief valve on CT is good also. That's really easy to check - no need to drain the oil. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Right, I've also got the old pressure switch from the previous engine (though still on that engine!). Would it be sensible to change one then the other, so I knew which one made a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Yes, swap the switch. If that doesn't help, try the relief valve. The apparently random nature of the light coming on does make me think it's one of these - truly low OP would mean it came on whenever the revs drop below a certain point. A gauge is really useful to have. I have one from an old mini picked up at an autojumble for £2. Had to buy a new pipe and adaptor though - that cost £4.50..... Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 I was given a Smiths one, in it's box, for nothing by a local TSSCer. Brought him a hand carved pipe back from Rwanda though (At the cost of several thousand Rwandan francs!). If it continues after the switch, I change the valve, after that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I was given a Smiths one, in it's box, for nothing by a local TSSCer. Brought him a hand carved pipe back from Rwanda though (At the cost of several thousand Rwandan francs!). So maybe you should connect the gauge? If it continues after the switch, I change the valve, after that? is probably about right...... You most likely get to practice removing the sump with the engine in situ so you can investigate the state of the oil pump and bearings. Lets hope it doesn't come to that! What was wrong with the original engine....? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark spit Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Remove the radiator cap. Lift it about 4 feet up. Drive a good car underneath. Fit the rad cap to that. Sorted. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) Don't have anywhere to put the gauge, need to cut a hole in the dash for it first! (Although my fuel gauge doesn't actually do much, so I could switch it for that...). I'm mid-way through swapping the valve and switch, so on the left is the old engine's valve, and on the right is the current engine's valve. The current engine's has a twisted and stretched spring, the old doesn't - but the old one's plunger is dirty, and the shaft is scored by the spring. Is that a problem? Could I swap plungers and pop the old spring and plug with the new plunger in? The switches: Left is new engine, right is old engine. The new engine's one is clearly older - or at least more bashed about! The original drank oil like there was no tomorrow, was on it's original bearings at well over 100000 miles, death rattle all the time, very little compression on three of the cylinders, and when I took it apart I discover the pistons were soaked in piston-seal, an enormous ridge at the top of the bores and pistons that I could move about with my finger... Edited December 22, 2011 by Aar0sc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Nowhere to put the gauge -pah! The one in my toledo was a temp fix soon after I got it so I could check the oil pressure. Still there, 2 cable ties hanging off a dash support. I keep thinking about fitting it properly, then get distracted Use the undamaged spring, clean the plunger and scoring on the shaft shouldn't be an issue unless it catches the spring, which is doubtful. The important bit is the face of the plunger, should be undamaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zetecspit Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) Doh, sneaky double post. BB a bit slow today......... Edited December 22, 2011 by zetecspit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Nowhere to put the gauge -pah! The one in my toledo was a temp fix soon after I got it so I could check the oil pressure. Still there, 2 cable ties hanging off a dash support. I keep thinking about fitting it properly, then get distracted Use the undamaged spring, clean the plunger and scoring on the shaft shouldn't be an issue unless it catches the spring, which is doubtful. The important bit is the face of the plunger, should be undamaged. Right, I'll pop it in the glove box and fit it properly in the future How tight should I do that up? Face of plunger is lovely, so that's all fitted now: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark spit Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Here's where my oil pressure gauge ended up, pipe fed via the ashtray opening. The dashtop recess is just the right size for 2 gauges. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ.Lintern Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 You want the Smiths dual coolant temp/oil pressure gauge - more accurate than the electrical temp gauge and a ready made hole in the dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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