Aar0sc Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Hmmm... Is it me; or are these pads different? I rang the supplier yesterday and the were certain they were correct; but they don't look it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ.Lintern Posted May 28, 2011 Share Posted May 28, 2011 Yes the one on the right is used and the one on the left is new You want some nice Mintex 1144 pads! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted May 28, 2011 Author Share Posted May 28, 2011 Yes the one on the right is used and the one on the left is new You want some nice Mintex 1144 pads! You're good! Which of these is new then? Anyway; to me at least the pads look different; the old ones just slide into the caliper and the new ones are too wide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark spit Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Bearing race removal tip from a mechanic friend of mine. You need a welder though. On a race inside a hub, run a bead of mig weld round the face, the race will shrink as it cools loosening the fit. Yours Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Prepare for some pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 OK, I'm braced.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Now: So; front anti-roll bar is off and is sitting in a bucket of Rust-Killing-Solution that I got at a 99p store ( :oops: ). Front wheel bearings coming along nicely now; just need to get the races out. Bought some red paint from my local-but-soon-to-be-closed Motor Factors; £2 a can you can't go wrong; especially when he matched the paint so well! I'll be back there tomorrow to grab the rest of his stock! Wheel arch is shite; to put it bluntly; the fillers just been slammed over rust and crapply painted. Filler has it's place; BUT WHY DIDN'T THEY SORT THE RUST FIRST?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Grrrr. Worse because I know this is a NOS rear wing that was fitted in 1994. And you can't get NOS wings anymore. :cry: Still; rather happy with my masking job at the back; I don't want amazing paint; but I want something to keep out the rust for a couple of years (spot the rusty spots where the previous owner didn't put rubber washers to prevent rubbing against the bumper mounting points. Actually; it probably wasn't him; I bet it was his local garage. I bet they bodged the exhaust too. But nevermind.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 rust likes to grow behind filler, if they ground down the rust and didnt treat it properly and just put filler over the top it will just come back under the filler. Its a quick and cheap bodge fix. I know i did it myself on my old nissan to get it through its MOT, 6 months later it was back coming out from under the filler. Remember the only real way to treat rust is to cut it out. However there are ways to prolongue it from apearing, get some bilt hamber de-ox gell, spread it over the bare metal surface and leave it for 12hrs to go hard and crusty, wire brush off the mess, and then use a decent etch primer and then paint on top, the secret is to seal the surface so as to not allow moisture in, no hard edges of paint. Paint the wheel arch and then paint the inner arch and lip with stonchip to make sure all edges are sealed. Youd be surprised with the finish you can get with spray cans, prep is the key, make sure the surface is well prepped, make sure it is well sanded with a very fine wet and dry wet. Use the same wet and dry over part of the excisting paint and spray 25% more than the edge of the repair moving the can away so it gets less and less coverage to blend in the colour. Apply 5 or 6 light coates. Then very light sand again especially over the blended area, then laquer again 20% further than the edge you blended too, 2 or 3 coates wet on wet allowing it to just go tacky. Leave all to dry and then wet sand the laquer blended area to smooth it in. Some cutting compound and some t-cut then a good polish and it will look as good as new. Bodywork is a labour of love, its an absoloute pain in the ring, but it pays to be patient and do it right. My car was done right by me with all the prep and then sprayed by a pro on top, it stands out from the crowd even to this day with an awesome shine and finish. The bonnet was bodged and just given a top coate and its already starting to rust after 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 My friend James is popped round (well I say popped round; technically I drove round to his then did a "road-trip" to Petersfield; Guildford then Haslemere to pick up car parts then back to my house; but whatever ) and we masked up the car (masking tape from the Chi pound store) and set about it with rust-killing stuff (pound store stuff is shit and I'm glad I only bought one packet). Cleaned up the anti-roll bar and painted it (Thank you James) then visited my local independent Volvo specialist to borrow a press to finish off the trunnion. Being the amazing bloke he is he popped it in in about a minute and then talked cars for about ten, showed off his 591bhp Volvo (that's now in print) and told me I had to visit him with a working Spit asap. (Bringing the list of people I need to visit to show off my car to to about one hundred!). Discovered that the drill has a grinding attachment and did a bit of grinding at the rear of the Spit; and hit the bearings a bit (as described above). Won't budge... Pictures: Aaron PS: the scratches I've photographed - how should I sort them out? Stopper or filler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Final pictures as there's a limit... Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 If any of you are TSSC members; my car is in the Young Members Section; page 18 of Courier 372 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Anti-rust stuff: Escpecially on the battery tray! EEP! *borrows a welder * And with some anti-ruster hammerite primer - which made me remember just how much I like beige; and also; how good would a beige Spitfire look? Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark spit Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 how good would a beige Spitfire look? [Aaron I think someones lying about their age now! Have you got a flat cap and some string back gloves????? Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Umm; I have some string back gloves that my Grandpa gave me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarv_77 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Aaron, Jumping in here, everything looks so familiar, brings back the memories... I notice you have replaced the front trunnions, did you take a look at the thread on the vertical link which screws into the trunnion? If it is the original component chances are it will be pretty worn. At worst they can snap as happened to me in my Reliant scimitar GTE which has almost identical front suspension. Plenty of other areas to investigate, how's the engine running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Yep; checked the thread and all was well Engine runs fine - or at least it did two months ago! http://www.youtube.com/user/hornby123me#p/u/6/1HC2qrnOl4I Annoyingly the paint I've just put on has crinkled up - same can; same conditions etc as yesterday; if a bit hotter. This is really annoying; begining to wish I'd just left the rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS :D :D :D I'VE GOT THE UPRIGHT OFF!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarv_77 Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Crinkly paint - sprayed on too thick maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 (edited) Crinkly paint - sprayed on too thick maybe? Yeah; that was why Edited June 3, 2011 by Aar0sc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 And sadly the upright is scrap due to the grease nipple being sheared off. Tried to get it out with an "easy-out"; but it broke the easy-out... Anyone got a spare? Also; why does this look different to mine? Also; the wheel bearings now just need to be packed with grease and I'll be off :D :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 And sadly the upright is scrap due to the grease nipple being sheared off. Tried to get it out with an "easy-out"; but it broke the easy-out... Anyone got a spare? Have you tried running a drill bit slightly smaller than the width of the sheared off nipple. This can allow the tube to collapse in from the threads, and make the easy-out job easier. (It's what I did in mine) C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Tried that; a old Triumph chap gave me a hand with that and the bearings - but it wouldn't budge; and there's also a bolt still jamming the heat shield in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark spit Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Aaron, Looks different cos it is. Probably off an early Herald or Spitfire. Make sure you get the right one. Well done (eventually) on getting the ball joint out. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 LHS Bearings in Sports Car Supplies reckon they'll have a good second hand one for £25; sound alright? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aar0sc Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Shmeg... SHould I have put the dust shield on before the hub/bearing/disc thing? And if I should have; are 1 1/2" X 1/8" Split pins the right ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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