You can even stick weld most grades of stainless, the biggest cause for issues with it is contamination so I follow the same protocols I do for aluminium. If your using co2 as your purge gas I find some dry ice inside the part and some tin foil over the ends works a treat as it gives a constant gas co2 supply as it heats up whilst being very very cheap.

Can you get old brewery type bottles refilled with co2 ?

This is useful info Nick thank you I have yet to buy any argon co2 mix gas, I could save myself 15 quid and just use the co2, got plenty of that  The thing is, I really, really, really hate rust I'll give it a go when the bits arrive. 

You can weld SS with standard steel wire and CO2. Obviously argoshield and SS wire will provide a more corrosion resistant result, but all of my SS exhaust welding over many yess as rs has been done with steel wire including some on the Vitesse which is 20+ years old and it’s holding up just fine!

I didn't want to take the manifold off againit's a bit tight for clearance! The issue was finding a collector with the right diameter inputs and output, but now I've decided to make one, I should be able to make something up!

I think after looking into it, it's definitely the way. For some reason I thought welding stainless required tig, I have no idea why I didn't think that mig can too! I've bought myself some 0.8 ss wire and just need some co2 argon mix hobby bottle size and I'm good to go! I doubted my ability when I see all these nice custom tig exhaust collectorshow hard can it be!  

Thank you for the heads up! I’m just using the ordinary free version. I’ll not worry if it disappears 🫣

Just given the Herald full service getting it ready for a trip to Scotland at the end of April. All seems good, nothing broken and nothing worn out. Cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes, surprised how much they had worn but I guess that's due to going  down in the Alps during last year 10CR! Never happy with the standard spanner for adjusting the rear brakes, always seem to hit the tyres (5.5J). Ihave made a new one from a couple of 1/4" sockets and a cut down Allen key, a bit of araldite to hold it together, and then use a 1/4" wrench to adjust it. The square 1/4" drive side of the socket fits the adjuster nicely Seems to work very well and much easy too use that the standard spanner.  

I have no idea how Marine traffic calculates the route, but the basic info comes from the AIS data the ship transmits. @Hamish be aware the ship is going to "disappear" most likely, U less you have paid for the satellite version of Marine traffic. Nothing sinister, just she will soon be out of range of the shore stations. She'll reappear around either Madagascar or S.A. Regarding Suez/Red Sea, the attacks had basically stopped during the period Israel had stopped bombing Gaza. They have resumed at the same time Israel resumed attacks. The "enhanced" attacks by the USA on the Houtis were already well underway, one of the first actions Trump did when he became President was too authorise a far stronger response.

I would not want the rad fitted when you are doing that. I did and my rad sprung a leak shortly after. You could probably rig a few gallon water container/bucket with a takeoff for the bottom rad hose, and feed the top hose in so it isn't pressurised. Getting the fluid hot is a good thing, every 10degreesC approx doubles the rate of reaction, so going from a nominat 20 to 80 will make things happen 60 times faster! Worth bypassing the heater for that operation too.... except maybe a very short blast and then flush with clean water.