1970 GT6 MK2

[Speedysix]

10 minutes ago, RedRooster said:

I know how painters nowadays prefer 2K but I do like the patina of cellulose. 

This is true. Celly is quite forgiving too and quite easily saveable if it goes flat in my experience, 2k is a little harder. I wonder how long it will be until 2k gets outlawed anyway given its healthy fumes

[Martin]

1k that is an unbelievable good price.  

[Speedysix]

11 hours ago, Martin said:

1k that is an unbelievable good price.  

It really was, the paints lasted quite well. Admittedly it was more like 1.2 as I supplies the base coat and a few consumables but still very good.

[Speedysix]

The day of the shells return I began to start sound deadening it. The product is called dodo mat, basically the same as silent coat and dynamat. All that time worrying about weight reduction and muggins here goes and slaps 10kg of sound deadening inside. It does make a huge difference in the road noise and panel vibration.

Fitting the wondscreen frame came that evening too, which was extremely difficult. After paying through the roof for the top and bottom seals, i believe they where somthing silly like 60 quid at the time! It was tricky getting the frame to essentially pull the roof towards the scuttle, I think where it had contracted a bit over the months it meant the roof had to be pushed down with some force and the bulkhead area pulled up whilst I get a few bolts in place. Then it was smooth sailing!

The next day was spent refurbing the front hubs

not a timken kit this time as these are relatively easy to replace so we'll see how they get on after 10k or so. New studs also fitted, the normal thread bit just slightly longer.

the chassis was slowly getting there! Im a bit disapointed with the finish, it did go quite flat but never mind. Some of you will shake your head here but red polybushes used throughout!

i then test fitted my new alloys, dunlop d1's from JBW wheels. I really liked the original 5.5j's with the big black and chrome caps but these alloys just looked perfect, and they're period correct too!

 

[Martin]

Not shaking my head, I use red Polybush in my GT6 as well. 

[Speedysix]

3 hours ago, Martin said:

Not shaking my head, I use red Polybush in my GT6 as well. 

I think they work well on the car, does improve the handling somewhat. I did find some of them fitted really badly, especially the rear spring eye ones, even with a lot of fairy liquid and patience! I think the quality of the bushes on the market vary, I've had a few sets of various ones from canley, rimmers and ebay and found various differences in quality. 

[Speedysix]

Received the flywheel back from the machine shop, had a good amount shaved off it and down to 6.6kg

I think in the long term this was a good idea, I didn't notice any driveability issues or erratic nature in the past 2 years on a standard ish engine but maybe that's just my ignorance

this was the next shiny additoon to an already big bill. The car had no box to start with and wanting to future proof the car a bit I opted to go for a slightly stronger box. This is essentially a gt6 box with dolly sprint internals. I believe it has a larger mainsheet? I honestly can't remember. And the added bonus of a J type OD. If I had a box I probably would have rebuilt that and just stuck with it. The box was built by Mike Papworth so although I think he screwed me over a bit price wise it was still alright.

New shortened propshaft was provided too. Fitting the box was quite troublesome, but with lots of help from you guys on here and some more from Nick, it managed to fit. The issue is clearing the tunnel and chassis rails due to the increased length from the j type. It requires spacers under the mounting plate to get the clearance between the chassis rails and od output flange and also the tunnell.

 

[Speedysix]

As part of the upgrades on the six, I splashed put on a set of CV's from rimmers, s**t expensive but they had one of their big discounts on at the time so I did save a hundred or so on them which was nice. 

And thank god muggins here managed to get the right amount of shims by some miracle on each of the shafts which meant not having to wrestle them back out after torqueing them down.

this was confirmed with my dti. The bearings on these are not timken sadly, so I really hope they last as I'm not particularly fond of having to remove the hubs again. Not to mention trying to get the leaf spring back in place, my got that's a right pig of a job. Am I right in thinking there's a big tool that bolts to the spring allowing you to pull it down?

anyway, all of the rear conpleted. The fuel line rputing and brake line rputing seemed a bit sketchy but im told thats the way to do it!

Now the big part, with the help of a few mates we finally got the body back on!

Now the real work can begin!

[Nick Jones]

There is a spring lifter tool. Nothing fancy. I would post a pic but mine appears to be “on holiday” in The English Riviera at present. Nothing that can’t be improvised with a length of 1”box section and a big exhaust clamp. Problem them becomes that the car is too light and you lift it off the axle stands before the spring is where you need it!

Polybushes….. Superflex from CW. Not the cheapest but the best.

Mike Papworth is well regarded but I’ve seen other comment about cost. Difficult one, as although the box builds themselves are quite quick (especially when you are as expert and practiced as he is!), finding useable parts (used or new!), getting parts back into usable condition and generally managing that process is fairly costly and time consuming and getting ever harder.

[Speedysix]

I'm sure I've seen one once upon a time on ebay etc, but definitely a worthwhile investment, I'm sure I've got some box steel kicking about. I've definitely had that problem of lifting the sodding car up, it was after the spring had new buttons put into it, my god that was difficult with the body on.

I have experienced the C.W ones, and they are really good quality. I'd rather pay a little more and have them last longer. So many of the new parts today are absolutely rubbish.

I felt he was the sorta bloke that when he saw me coming, sort of clapped and rubbed his hands together, young lad, I'll charge him a fortune. Yes I mean I can't fault his work and he is very reputable but just not the cheapest. So far that box has done so much and has withstood a track day at high rpm too, somthing a standard gt6 box wouldn't have coped with.

[Speedysix]

more dodo mat on the inside and a spaghetti of wires to sort. Not fun. I started at the rear and got the rear loom all repaired with new connections and test fitted the lights. Yes they are LED number plate lights. Not to everyones liking but I think they work with the car, that original ish look with a bit of modern tech.

Turning attention to the quarter lights, the chrome cleaned up well but the seals between the glass and frame where completly dry and perished. Didn't look great. So after trying several U shaped glazing rubbers to no avail, I eventually done it very neatly with tiger seal. You honestly can't tell the difference.

[Speedysix]

With any of these projects, the first thing to go in is the headliner. A job some would not enjoy, but for me, a piece of cake. I learnt all the tricks doing them on about 3 minis prior and a friends gt6 mk3 so I wasn't too fussed. 

I did acidentally trim one of the pillars too short and unpick some stiches a tad to far but its hardly noticable. This was a newton kit, the only suppliers of then I believe. The trick is to just be patient, have a huge pile of those bulldog type stationary clips and little lengths of door seals as well. Then a good hairdryer.

I always get it most of the way and make sure it's clipped in all around, then leave it for a day or so as the material will try and move.  Then go back over it, just woek around the perimeter of the car, stretch and clamp. Then when all looks perfect go around, an glue small sections at a time.

Now the rear hatch could be fitted.

I never want to have to replace that glass again, took me hours to get it in, i think the seal was slightly the wrong size but made it more difficult.

quarter lights then riveted in place

with the mk2 windscreens, seal in place first, then get a suitable size cord and a spray bottle of soapy water. Sit the screen in place and then slowly pull the cord out and occasionally get out and push the screen in place, be patient and itll fit fine. I have had no leaks as of yet, some i think apply sealant but I've not found a need to. Glass is usually one of those things people outsource so I'm very pleased that I've self taught myself, saves a few quid!

[RedRooster]

Reading this makes me want another GT6, maybe.. 

 

[Nick Jones]

4 hours ago, Speedysix said:

the first thing to go in is the headliner. A job some would not enjoy, but for me, a piece of cake.

Mate….. if only I’d have known….. you could have done mine…..  

As much as you could drink (Afterwards)

The sound deadening is a good move too. I did put some in, but not that much …. And I should have. There’s definitely too much panel noise. May have to revisit.

1 hour ago, RedRooster said:

Reading this makes me want another GT6, maybe

Eh…? Pretty sure you’ve got one already….. unless something happened to it very recently?

[Speedysix]

3 hours ago, RedRooster said:

Reading this makes me want another GT6, maybe.. 

 

You can never have too manyjust don't let the other half find out

[Speedysix]

2 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

Mate….. if only I’d have known….. you could have done mine…..  

As much as you could drink (Afterwards)

The sound deadening is a good move too. I did put some in, but not that much …. And I should have. There’s definitely too much panel noise. May have to revisit.

Haha, a job you didn't enjoy I presume?

Yeah I think without it, the noise would have been unbearable. Especially with a more or less straight through exhaust. I've never know what a standard exhaust is like noise wise inside the car so I've no way of knowing how much ridiculously louder mine is over standard

[RedRooster]

14 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

 

Eh…? Pretty sure you’ve got one already….. unless something happened to it very recently?

I still have, but like the Mk 2's.

Nothing is going to happen until I finish the house off though. If a project turns up on a trailer there may be a murder involved shortly after....

[TimBancroft]

How many sheets of Dodo Mat did you buy?

[Speedysix]

2 hours ago, TimBancroft said:

How many sheets of Dodo Mat did you buy?

Too many to count Tim! I think it was around 40 or so to cover everything. They come in packs of 30 for around 40 quid. Expensive but not as pricey as silent coat or dynamat

[Speedysix]

Coming from the mini world, strombergs where simply not my cup of tea, and after talking many knowledgeable people I was swayed to go down the HS6 route. These were provided for some Beer money from an absolute Saint Called Carl that Tim put me in touch with. 

soaking, scrubbing and cleaned with hot soapy water, carb cleaner and some patience.

I opted to not go down the tt adapter route, instead elongating the mounting holes on the carb body's. Running a rough tungsten carbide burr on a rotary attachment, I matched the Manifolds to the carbs using the gaskets as templates, marking and then checking with the carbs before milling. 

the only downside with these carbs is that they do not have return springs on the bodies. Not sure why some do and some don't. Anyway, it just meant that I needed to mock up a bracket mounted to the vacuum take off on the manifold for some return springs for each carb spindle. I also have a return spring going from the centre of the throttle linkage to a small hole in the suspension turret.

 

[Speedysix]

It was around this time too, that in one of the Facebook groups, someone was looking for their late father's gt6, and guess what.

Just so happened to be mine! I had a good chat with him on message, I think it was a recent loss and he was going through all the memories. This photo was taken some time in the 80s at a lay-by in Lulworth Cove. I knew the car came from down south but this pieced the puzzle together. I have promised him a ride in it at some point, it's a lovley beach so maybe this summer. I want to recreate the photo but there is always cars parked there!

Now, eagle eyed readers will have noticed no mention of engines so far, I do not wish to revisit that emotional trauma as some of you may recall the utter pain I caused myself so this is essentially the engine that got the car going, a genuine gt6 mk2 unit

It needed a full rebuild which you'll see in due time. And then a little later another rebuild. It's honestly painful even to write about so I'll leave it there

[zetecspit]

8 hours ago, Speedysix said:

the only downside with these carbs is that they do not have return springs on the bodies. Not sure why some do and some don't. Anyway, it just meant that I needed to mock up a bracket mounted to the vacuum take off on the manifold for some return springs for each carb spindle. I also have a return spring going from the centre of the throttle linkage to a small hole in the suspension turret.

The seperate return spring are the earlier type. And I think the change was because these pull the spindle, and that can wear the carb body/spindle.

With later type the spring rotates the spindle, and they never seem to get seriously worn. 

I have never looked at if the early type can be converted, but if they are in decent shape, and you don't use too strong a return spring, they will last many thousands of miles. 

Edited April 3 by zetecspit
SPG

[Gt64fun]

9 hours ago, Speedysix said:

I opted to not go down the tt adapter route, instead elongating the mounting holes on the carb body's. Running a rough tungsten carbide burr on a rotary attachment, I matched the Manifolds to the carbs using the gaskets as templates, marking and then checking with the carbs before milling. 

Will you be fitting spacers between the manifold and carb to limit heat transfer. A heat sield bteen the carbs and the exhaust manifold is also worthwhile.

This is what I did on my Mk2 which uses 175 CD2 carbs and I also was keen to omit the TT adapters as they were a source of leaks - as previously posted on the TSSC forum.

Yes, isolators are there to limit heat transfer from the (heated) manifold.

I have taken a couple more photos of my set up and have attached some CAD drawings I did at the time I was working on it.

Basically the manifold flange needs to be built up with aluminium (approx 18mm thick) to match the profile of the HS6. The rear of the manifold is already almost the right profile, but the front one is the same lozenge shape as the standard 150 Strom. The existing holes need to be filled in and new holes drilled and tapped to suit the HS6 bolt pattern. Ideally the studs should have UNC threads in the aluminium and UNF for the nuts onto the carb flanges. I used a local fabricator that I knew through my former career as a Structural Engineer, but any good shop should be able to do it.

Next onto the manifold is the heat shield, which is made in two parts. The first part is made from 3m thick aluminium and is sandwiched between the isolator and the carburetor and has a small outstanding angled flange below the carb, onto which the main shield fixes.  I did it this way so I could more easily get behind the heat shield if required eg-starter motor and jet adjustment), rather than having to take the carbs off.  The removable lower part is made from carbon fibre faced with reflective aluminium foil, just because I had some spare carbon and epoxy left over from a boat project.  They could just as well be made in folded aluminium.

Then comes the black plastic isolator. Mine are 13mm thick and IIRC were sourced from Burlen Carburetor Services. (you will also need 6No. gaskets, 3 per carb).

I have used the K&N filters for many years, but am planning to fabricate a bespoke air box to allow a cold feed. I am hoping to use my existing filter elements within the new airbox.

One further mod has been to add stub stacks to aid the flow into the carbs. I had some turned up using Delrin, but I believe other options are available commercially. Fitting them immediately increased the idle speed, which suggested to me that flow had been improved.

Ian

[Speedysix]

2 hours ago, zetecspit said:

The seperate return spring are the earlier type. And I think the change was because these pull the spindle, and that can wear the carb body/spindle.

With later type the spring rotates the spindle, and they never seem to get seriously worn. 

I have never looked at if the early type can be converted, but if they are in decent shape, and you don't use too strong a return spring, they will last many thousands of miles. 

Ah that would explain it. I was worried about this at first and thought I could convert them but the castings are diffrent. This must be why the spindle holes on mine are perfect!

[Speedysix]

1 hour ago, Gt64fun said:

Will you be fitting spacers between the manifold and carb to limit heat transfer. A heat sield bteen the carbs and the exhaust manifold is also worthwhile.

This is what I did on my Mk2 which uses 175 CD2 carbs and I also was keen to omit the TT adapters as they were a source of leaks - as previously posted on the TSSC forum.

Yes, isolators are there to limit heat transfer from the (heated) manifold.

I have taken a couple more photos of my set up and have attached some CAD drawings I did at the time I was working on it.

Basically the manifold flange needs to be built up with aluminium (approx 18mm thick) to match the profile of the HS6. The rear of the manifold is already almost the right profile, but the front one is the same lozenge shape as the standard 150 Strom. The existing holes need to be filled in and new holes drilled and tapped to suit the HS6 bolt pattern. Ideally the studs should have UNC threads in the aluminium and UNF for the nuts onto the carb flanges. I used a local fabricator that I knew through my former career as a Structural Engineer, but any good shop should be able to do it.

Next onto the manifold is the heat shield, which is made in two parts. The first part is made from 3m thick aluminium and is sandwiched between the isolator and the carburetor and has a small outstanding angled flange below the carb, onto which the main shield fixes.  I did it this way so I could more easily get behind the heat shield if required eg-starter motor and jet adjustment), rather than having to take the carbs off.  The removable lower part is made from carbon fibre faced with reflective aluminium foil, just because I had some spare carbon and epoxy left over from a boat project.  They could just as well be made in folded aluminium.

Then comes the black plastic isolator. Mine are 13mm thick and IIRC were sourced from Burlen Carburetor Services. (you will also need 6No. gaskets, 3 per carb).

I have used the K&N filters for many years, but am planning to fabricate a bespoke air box to allow a cold feed. I am hoping to use my existing filter elements within the new airbox.

One further mod has been to add stub stacks to aid the flow into the carbs. I had some turned up using Delrin, but I believe other options are available commercially. Fitting them immediately increased the idle speed, which suggested to me that flow had been improved.

Ian

Ian, very interesting read thanks. I never fitted spacers but I understand the point of why. Heatshields are on the current to buy list for the overhaul. I will also be fitting stub stacks like the type MED sell for minis, providing I can find some that fit! And by fit I mean the filter assembly etc. I was going down the k&N route but honestly I prefer the MED style with stub stacks. May have to fabricate somthing but no biggy.

I will be further trying to keep the heat from dissipating in the engine bay this build. Once I get my hands on a tubular manifold I will be wrapping it and clearance dependant I will add some insulator spacers to the carbs but will need to measure the space once I have the air filters, stub stacks, heatshield etc.

Jacob