GT6MK3 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Very long day. Lotsa this Post coming. Too tired to think. For now, EFI ready fuel tank Reverse view In situ And eventually, http://youtu.be/Ijk0GFYz0Dg Off to bed, gotta work tomorrow - three cars to chose from to get there! C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pomwah Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Only one choice! Whoo-hoo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Oh boy, well done! That was a Saturday well spent. But talk about déja vous! As you panned across the dust layers I was reminded of one of your first posts here, where you exhumed a dusty GT6 and drove her to the car wash. And so, once again, off she goes for a nice bath. I am, of course, incredibly jealous. Mine probably hasn't moved under its own steam in fifteen years or more. Did you take her to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Good to see Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Made a promise to myself that Saturday - for a month I'd just pick nice days to go out and drive without worrying about what needs doing Fun month. I remember why I put in all the work. I've got some interesting moves coming, so I thought it would be good to get a baseline and keep track of the improvments as they come. So went here to get a warts and all baseline. Running on 98 octane, Strombergs oiled but untouched since before Clinton became president, dizzy bumped back a little in 2010 when it pinged going up hill. Otherwise dead bog standard No niceties, no tuning to make her look better. Stock 40 year old enging, stock exhaust. 50.7 kilowatts. That's about 20 ponies gone since she left the showroom, or 0.5 a year. It's a start... C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Thats about 70bhp I think. Is that at the wheels or the crank???? If its the crank then you will have gearbox losses to acount for too. chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 68 bhp. Not too disgraceful if at the wheels. If that is corrected to flywheel power....... well, the only way is up! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Now that is interesting. I haven't seen the torque curve of a standard GT6. And it isn't much of a curve really, it's damned near flat. Once again, I suspect Triumph knew what they were doing. How does she feel on the road? All the torque curves I've seen for Triumph sixes have a dip around 3500. I'd assumed that was characteristic of the species but maybe it's a result of resonance in an equal length header. Well done, sir! And good on you for just driving her. They're only alive when being driven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 ... and a Phoenix 6-3-1 in the boot Really flat torque curve. What is the max torque figure? And right, mine has the torque dip around 3500 . Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 A Phoenix 6-3-1 will produce a really flat torque curve. When it's in the boot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 PI has a really flat torque curve and pulled like a train as a consequence. (2.5L. Std 132 PI cam, TR6 manifold some head work) The Vitesse doesn't and peaks really high for some reason - though this isn't really reflected in the way it drives. It is 2L, has the same "132" cam, Pheonix 631 (though with an oddball collector arrangement which may be the reason for the torque oddities), similar headwork and one-off fabricated inlet manifold. Suspect that Craigs RR plot is actually pessimistic. Even so, the early power drop-off shows that it is a later engine with the 18/58 cam - good torque but no top end. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Nick, Thread on TRR about the benefits of 6--3-1. Do you have a dyno report with and without a scavenge manifold? JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofast2race Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 (edited) At the wheels I'd assume? All the dyno dynamic type I have used just measure rwhp or kW - what other sort of horsepower is there? Edited November 29, 2014 by toofast2race Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Better post coming, but here's an update https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YvjlPLgIOo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Nice! It seems you can still get into Toyo Spares......... (using a lift is cheating of course ) Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 (edited) I love these Sunday morning updates! And doing it by video shows the Phoenix phit issues very well. She sounds like she's running a bit lean when you blip the throttle, too. The wheelbarrow is impressive. She sounds like a proper Triumph now, with a six cylinder rumble at idle, and a very nice howl when the other bloke took her up the street. How loud is she inside? And I see it doesn't have the pipe ends rolled in like some, which apparently reduces flow. What diameter is the main pipe? So what's next? A trip to the dyno to compare the exhausts, or to the header shop? Or am I spoiling the surprise? Edited December 6, 2014 by V8 Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 I do love Fiverr.com C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hanging the exhaust was fun - mostly because the new owner of Toyospares is a genuinely nice guy, and has left me with my set of keys and weekend hoist privileges. Probably helped that I was able to sort out the computer reconfiguration needed for the changeover of management. My original plan was to just fit the headers and the exhaust hangers then have the guys who did the Bogan Hiace custom exhaust fit the rest. But the wind was blowing, and the dropzone was closed, so I soldiered on. This lot have been waiting a while to go on. Took me hours to safely remove everything when I did it with jack-stands and a roller. Took less than 50 minutes with a hoist, a transmission jack and a Y winder. Took quite a few goes to get the headers and carbs to agree to share the same space. In all just the header and carbs took me about 7 hors before they were on right. The Steering rod is stupidly tight. and doing up these two very nearly defeated me.(serenity now...) Getting the Z pipe right made for an interesting 3 dimentional puzzle - it absolutely sets up the fit of the exhaust, and can be moved in, out, up down, along,and back. Getting it right was also lots of "fun". For the first attempt, I added a thin smear of exhaust sealant to the collector tubes. Sadly, one of my "nuts and bolt" clamps didn't seal despite being tighted down to "fish's arse" kinda tightness, so I had to pull it all off from the collector back, (oh joy, there goes 7 hours) and go again. Inspection later showed how badly I'd under done it. 2nd time around, I followed a mates advice . I won't repeat his advice in polite company, but it ensured lots of goo went into the places goo needed to be. 2nd times a charm. Lesson learned. Lotsa goop. That led me to replacing the fuel tank I'd removed to put in the new muffler hangers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pomwah Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) Hors? #FitzroySt.,St.Kilda Edited December 18, 2014 by pomwah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 Nick Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Mm mm. As I don't have a hoist, I think I'll get an exhaust shop to fit my headers. They will have heat and bending bars at hand if tweaking is needed, and can make up the rest of the system as well. I think, having seen your goop, that I'd prefer to weld my primaries to the secondaries, assuming of course that the whole assembly can then be fitted without removing the engine. That will eliminate a source of leaks. So what's your plan now? Drive her into the New Year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Good work - once again! Just got to love the fit of the Pheonix........ I never had to battle those nuts as there was no possible way that my Pheonix was going to fit with my carb manifold so I had to wait until the EFI manifold was made and that leaves easy access. I had to do away with the Z pipe when I fitted the W58 - guess the T50 is not so fat....... Strongly suggest adding at least one support bracket off the bellhousing and/or the gearbox. This will limit the amount of flexing and fretting that goes on at the 3 way joint and the seal should hold better. Two problems with the welding idea. One is that I don't think you'll fit or remove the manifold with the engine in and two, you won't be able to get at more that about 2/3 of the joint to weld so it'll probably blow anyway - and be unfixable. Split and clamp as Craig has done with plenty of paste. Add support brackets to bellhousing and gearbox. If feeling really keen, add a flexi-joint around the back of the gearbox area. That should sort it. Stopping the joint flexing is the key I think. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Cheers Nick, I'll have a look at a support at the bellhousing or adapter plate. Pulling the fueltank in and out saw me develop a leak. I'd always been a little suss of the tank to fuel line join, but had only ever nipped it up tighter when upside down on a roller, not looked closely on a hoist. Turns out the join was a very unusual, and currently unobtainable type of, well, not quite an olive join. And it was mangled, and dripping. Not good news with the previous exhaust, but really bad when a muffler is directly below the dripping joint. I'm convinced she refused to start when I first tried because she knew I hadn't noticed the problem, and she'd go up in flames. Trying the two readily available types of 1/4 inch olives just led to more leaks, so I ended up pulling the tank (yet again) and heading off to the local hydraulic specialist franchise. 3 guys spent an hour on a stinking hot day trawling through fittings. Eventually, we turned down one fitting, added a fibre deal, added an adapter, and added another normal olive connector. It was so hot the cashier went out and bought a box of icy poles, and offered them round to all. This franchise are know for being good but expensive - in the past I've paid 4 times the price there for stuff I now know I can get from the Bearing Wholesalers less than a mile away if I wear a Toyospares shirt, so I was a little scared when it came time to pay. 1 hour, 3 guys, 4 parts, lathe, "That was fun, call it 10 bucks for the parts. Make sure you bring it round when it's running." I will, and there will be a carton of beer in the back. The finished non leaking lash up. Leak free and functional, Thanks Enzed , At this point I thought long and hard, and realised I need a christmas present... This tank's been patched before. It's internals have some surface rust, and the baffle design rules out having both a fuel pot and an effective gauge sender, The work I had done to it a couple of years ago to set it up for EFI has turned out to be leaky and sub standard. Time to re think? So I pulled it out, got a steel rule or three, some cardboard and a stout pencil. After some seriously tricky measuring, cutting and imaganeering, I had 8 pages of drawings and a detailed description. I sent that of to someone on fiverr.com, and 24 hours and $15 later I had this I took that and the paperwork to these guys http://www.canfredengineering.com.au Today, they gave me this. Fits in nicely. Just can't beet C.A.D C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 That's artwork....... does the CAD drawing tell you what it's volume is? Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 I'm interested in the volume too. I originally went for the fuel tank (36L) up against the rear axle but as its a road car i could really do with some extra space for the camping gear and was thinking of getting another made to sit in the stock position. Looks Good too. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 My schoolboy maths came up with about 34 -35 liters, and I'm expecting to lose anything up to a liter for the pump and pot. I could be wrong though, there's a deceptive number of odd angles on this . I could have gone wider or more aggressive, nut I wanted it to fit without too much fettling. If I can fill it over 30 liters I'll be happy. My old tank wouldn't take more than 32-33 from bone dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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