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Had to go shopping for some bits needed for dinner.  Cant get much in the boot... Liking how she's looking now. Just need the summer to hurry up.

That is a very tidy car Richard by the way

Never really understood the apetite in the classic car market for the sex shop look, looks much better now to my eyes at least.

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Oh well, Santa came early in the form of a UPS man.  Stuck at home in self isolation having come into contact with someone who tested positive for Covid.  Thankfully feeling good, have tested negative but will continue to self isolate for the period required.  Quality garage time for me but I am missing getting out for a morning run over the hills.

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18 hours ago, Escadrille Ecosse said:

Oooh, lovely!

I think you could add a couple more shims to the bottom wishbones and get the font wheels just a touch more vertical/negative which would just be perfect.

But that's a personal choice and I think the car looks fabulous

Think I had better get the string out and have a measure up.  See where its at.

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1 hour ago, Radioactive Man said:

Fronts are 5 1/2", rears are 6".

Spits and GT6s seem to benefit from a stagger. Ours are 5” front 5.5” rear. Rears have more offset also.

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Looks terrific. Way better than mine did back in the day. As I get older, the Spit looks more and more like an attractive, practical and fun car...

Miles

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How many shims are to many shims on the lower wishbones?

One side has +.5 degree camber (no shims currently),

The other side around +1.8 degree camber (2 shims currently)

from what I have read the factory spec was +2 to +4 degree camber unladen.  Also that 1 shim = about 1 degree of camber.

Is it worth trying to get closer to vertical or a touch negative on the front camber?

I guess its better to do this with some weight in the car so its closer to conditions for driving.

Got a fair bit of toe out as well since lowering the suspension. About 3mm I would say from the quick measure up.

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No such thing as "too many shims"!

I run with -2.5 on the front, and have so many shims that A/ I've run out of length on the stud,   and B/ used solid alloy spacers instead of a whole stack of shims, which could come loose.

The original positive camber was for cross-ply tyres.    You're better off with some neagtive with Radials.

But that is far too much toe out.

John

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1 hour ago, JohnD said:

No such thing as "too many shims"!

There is such a thing as "not enough bolt" though :tongue:

Also bear in mind that these shims also influence caster - which is set by varying the number of shims front to rear - and you want that to be in the ballpark and the same side to side.

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1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Ian

               I came across some shims the other day(came with the Vitesse)

So if you want some I will sort them out.

Roger

Hi Roger, that would be great.  I need to get your spring compressor back to you so that would be perfect.

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You can pretty much keep adding shims until you run out of thread on the other side of the chassis. Far more than you need.

Not unusual to have different numbers each side to get the same camber angle!!

For a road car I'd recommend just a touch negative. No more than a degree. 

Go for zero toe with just the tiniest bit of in to keep things straight under braking.

While yo have the string out it's also worth checking the rear end for pointing the same direction as the front and with a bit of toe in too.

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22 hours ago, Nick Jones said:


 

Spits and GT6s seem to benefit from a stagger. Ours are 5” front 5.5” rear. Rears have more offset also.

Hello Nick

                 Surely if you have 5" at front and 5.5" at rear it make it almost equal (49" F  48" rear track)

Roger 

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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

There is such a thing as "not enough bolt" though :tongue:

It would appear that could very easily be the case. For some reason the stud on one of the lower wishbone mount brackets appears to have a much shorter stud length even allowing for the fact it has two shims fitted...  Think I might be pulling things apart a little more :confused:

The other three have got plenty of threads showing still.  Bugger.

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4 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

What do you reckon on caster? and how do you measure it?

@Nick JonesI've read a number of ways of trying to measure caster without having the proper gauge and they are all a bit of a ball ache. Which is probably why most of the commentary tends to avoid the issue other than saying that if you get it wrong the effect can be pretty bad. Mr Staniforth suggests starting with the recommended value.

As a result I haven't experimented with caster angles other than to get them equal on each side. And to be honest I did that indirectly as part of the suspension alignment.

Basically I've done all the setup on the car using string - or in my case thread as it gives a more defined line - down either side of the car and then measuring everything off that. Although I do have a homemade camber gauge.

My reasoning was that if the top and bottom of the outer ends of the wishbones are in the same place fore/aft either side then by definition the caster will be the same. Lowering the suspension and changing camber will obviously have an effect on caster in turns but my assumption is that for relatively small steering angles it's negligible and for large steering angles caster is not really an issue as you're either trying to park or on opposite lock :biggrin:

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The method I have used (on the Vitesse) some years ago now involved measuring camber angles at different steering angles and some maths. I doubt the actual angles resulting were exactly what I thought they were, but they were at least very similar side to side.....

It drove better afterwards anyway. Needs checking again since the trunnionless conversion scrambled everything.

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23 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:

The method I have used (on the Vitesse) some years ago now involved measuring camber angles at different steering angles and some maths. I doubt the actual angles resulting were exactly what I thought they were, but they were at least very similar side to side.....

It drove better afterwards anyway. Needs checking again since the trunnionless conversion scrambled everything.

I agree with all that Nick. Except I could never be bothered with that method. My logic was that there were so many variables introduced just by turning the steering wheel which moves everything on the car that the numbers produced would be meaningless. Never really occurred to me that they would at least be similarly wrong - or maybe I was just too lazy :confused:

Getting things similar either is probably the best improvement you can make. I remember the first time I tried setting everything up. I was appalled at how far out things were and amazed the difference it made to the car having everything pointing in about the same direction!

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3 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

It drove better afterwards anyway. Needs checking again since the trunnionless conversion scrambled everything.

Hello Nick

                I see you have gone trunnionless did you use Canley ones?

I am thinking(well decided really) because as far as I know the ones on Spitty could be 40 years old(they look ok when checked)

Plus I have sold some stuff off and hopefully the other Vitesse so it is only money and at my age and all the crap that is going on I thought sod it and it looks good.

Plus as you know I like to upgrade things(purists look away)

Roger 

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9 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

I see you have gone trunnionless did you use Canley ones?

Yes. No alternative that I know of?

Be aware that they do alter the geometry somewhat. Certainly more than I was expecting. Perhaps the most significant change is to the leverage ratios due to moving the suspension pivot point outwards. This reduces the effective spring rate.

I had not twigged this until someone on here pointed it out and was initially disbelieving as the change was such that I couldn’t believe the car wasn’t obviously lowered.  It is noticeable when driving though.  On balance I wish I’d left it as it was as I have yet to get the car back to where it was and it was better before.

Bottom line...? Your car your rules, but if there’s nothing wrong with your existing links (no corrosion, no cracks etc), might be best left?

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