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Nick Jones

Plenum Manifold To Throttle Bodies?

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Hello Nick

                  All parts clean of course yes make a paste and paste the joints then when you are heating the job up heat the silver solder rod up(carefully!) and dip it in the flux and it will stick.

Then away you go

I just made it seem easy didn't I ?  but if you watch someone who can do it it does look easy!

The trick is enough heat in the job to melt the solder but not to much that it over heats and runs away or oxidizes!

Roger

ps nerves of steel required and practice on scrap it may seem a waste of money(I know that will hurt) but not easy to separate when done wrong

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The trick is to master JB-weld & cold weld.

Lasted two years and fell to bits. I leave brazing, welding & soldering to somebody else unless it means <60Watt electic and only copper. LOL.

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9 hours ago, spitfire6 said:

The trick is to master JB-weld & cold weld.

:huh: Not on a fuel rail holding back petrol at 3 Bar thanks...…..

I know that in this modern world adhesives are held as miracle technologies.  In my world though, disappointments outnumber their successes.

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9 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

:huh: Not on a fuel rail holding back petrol at 3 Bar thanks...…..

I know that in this modern world adhesives are held as miracle technologies.  In my world though, disappointments outnumber their successes.

JB weld & waterpump modification = help from AA two years later in December. In the rain. No heating. 10% battery on phone. Got to watch two young ladies so not all bad. 

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hello Nick,

silver soldering is one of the easiest processes to use as the solder flows so well once everything is up to temperature. I often use it to join dissimilar metals, eg, brass to stainless. (You can also braze them but that is harder as the brass is molten at the join.) I do have the benefit of oxy acetylene which is better than mapp as it is hotter and more concentrated.

A close fit of the mating parts is required but i'm sure you know that?

Alec

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Hello Nick,

 

just to clarify, better meaning easier in this case.

 

Alec

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Thanks Alec. I’ve made everything so it more or less “snaps” together and each joint has a crevice for the capillary action to work on.

Need to work up a couple of practice pieces.....

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Hey Nick,

Looking good. The last efi 6 I did the rail quite similar to yours except in aluminium as I have ac tig. It's a lot of work and I decided with the efi I am doing on this next one that I'd use a billet rail. I think I paid £20 including delivery from China (ebay). In my opinion it's the best option, mark out the injector locations, drill, csk, ream etc. Rail bore is 17.5ish so takes a 1/2 pipe thread tap so you have loads of end connection options.

The solid part of the rail is 1/2" thick so easy to drill and tap into that to make fixing points etc..

Anyway, just a thought. No reason why yours won't be perfect.

 

 

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That looks nice.  I did use that type of fuel rail when I did my PI conversion.  At that time it was only available from Ross Machine in the US.  The rail itself was quite fairly priced but the shipping was a bit of a shocker.  I bought several lengths and did a few of them to cover costs.  Was fortunate enough to have the use of a mill with digital read out and the proper Ross Machine injector pocket cutter, which made it very quick and easy to produce a perfect result.

inlets and fuel rails.jpg

PIe finished.jpg

Didn't realise there are more reasonably priced sources now.

My soldering test pieces didn't go that well..... but I've learned alot.  Actually having more trouble with too much heat/lack of controllability and cooking the flux.....

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44 minutes ago, mtrehy said:

I'm not sure what benefit the injector pocket cutter would give. I use a 13.5 reamer and basic chamfering tool

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/injectortool.html

A perfect pocket in about 10 seconds.  Repeatable every time.  I agree it's not essential for low volume work (one offs) and at the price they are now you'd need to be doing MANY to justify the purchase, but it was a very nice thing to use.

If the Chinese were to knock them out for £ 20 too, I'd buy one.  I dunno how they do the fuel rail for the price either.  Think I might buy one though - thanks for the link!

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Hello All

               I recon a half decent machine shop could grid a 15/16mm drill down to do that!

The drill would be cheap but how much they would charge for grinding?

Roger

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I would think that the material and extrusion cost for the 0.5m of rail would be in the order of a couple of quid in reality as they'll have the kit already and they're just covering the marginal cost of production and keeping people busy.

I don't have access to a machine shop any more, just the pillar drill in the garage so I'd be tempted to buy the cutter. Even at £20 a pocket if only making one rail, just to save the stress of that last operation after hours of work!

 

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Hello All

                I know this may be a daft question but cant you just make a fuel rail out of rectangular aluminium bar?

Other than looking pretty!

Roger

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you can produce a perfect hole in the rail with nothing more than a 13.5 reamer. 

 

My process

 

Mark out

Drill 7mm through to extrusion bore

Drill 13mm about 11mm - set a depth stop on your machine so all depths will be the same as the first one

Ream 13.5 to bottom of 13mm hole

Little chamfer

Rinse and repeat for the other 5 holes.

You could do it with a pillar drill no problem. i reckon at a push and with care you'd get it done with a cordless drill.

 

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I have previously made one from aluminium box and some turned bosses but it's a lot of work when you can get an extrusion for £20 and don't have to make and weld the bosses. I also don't claim to be great with the AC Tig so would rather not be tig welding fuel joints.

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