If your doing a rebuild you won’t need the evapo rust, I steam clean the tractor blocks, I spend an hour with the jet steam cleaner at the farm getting into every little hole with it. You’ll be amazed how much crud comes out. Some engine shops will have their own cabinets for that. But yes lots of crud out with the evapo rust, Ed china has a few videos on it and even does whole chassis’s with it now! 

I have had a couple of engines that needed a good poke with pokey things to move hard crud, back of the black near the drain plug.  On my sprint engine I poked wires etc to get as much stuff out as possible, then used hydrochloric acid (brick acid) to shift stubborn leftovers. That works pretty well.  I made some "evaporust" at home quite cheaply. It really does work. (sodium carbonate is basic washing soda, very cheap from the supermarket. Citric acid from ebay, not quite as cheap but to make 10L cost me under a tenner) Per 1 litre of water. 1: 100 grams Citric Acid. 2: 40 grams Sodium Carbonate or 63 Grams Sodium Bicarbonate or 30 grams Sodium Hydroxide. After reaction has completed, add final ingredient. 3: Arbitrary amount of washing-up liquid.    

looks very nice. But does it have the wet belt engine?

Hello, Before I move to the back. You might have noticed in the first of the last pictures, the stabilizer bar and it's arm looks a bit "different". That is a Kastner modification to make the standard bar adjustable (at present in the standard adjustment, but will be"tightened" up before it leaves the garage again. Regards, Michael.

A few years after I bought the car a local radiator mechanic tested the original rad to help me fix the overheating. Set me up with a Honda radiator with much more cooling fin area and custom bracket to mount it in the car. Also added an extra electric fan in addition to the stock fan, heat problems continued. The GT6 radiator came with electric fan and welded fan mounts, setup did improve the overheating a little. I'm interested in the result of evapo rust on the block! Did you get lots of crud when you drained? I have a potential replacement 1300 motor that I will be doing a full rebuild on, soaking the water passages with rust remover will probably need to be added to the list.

Having recently cured a overheating 1300 engine that was in the hurricane there were a few things that I did. Its running a single thermostat controller electric fan on the original radiator. (I would have thought the stock radiator would do a better job than a gt6 one? I took the radiator to the shop that does all the tractor radiators for me for flow testing and cleaning. I had the timing and carbs adjusted on a rolling road as modern fuel requires different advance to the book for old 5 star fuel. I flushed the block and hoses, first with just the hose and then blocked the hoses off without the radiator on and pushed some evapo rust through the block.    Later that day I drained it and flushed it a few more times and it has ran cool ever since!    I hope that helps!    I can check the pulley size for you in a couple of days if that helps on the 1300. But similarly I can’t guarantee it’s the correct one on mine! 

Nick The engine is a 1300 with upgraded big valve (1500) head! I have 2 separate temperature sensors: 1st sensor/gauge is a cheap combo replacement of the dash OEM Smiths/Jaeger I switched years ago trying to resolve temp problem giving a little more info and accuracy. 2nd sensor goes to my microsquirt with custom LED display showing live CAN bus info I selected. Both gauges match (in-sync) while driving. Basic high temperature levels  have plagued me over the years and through upgrades of the ignition Points Distributor to electronic, now Ford EDIS unit hooked to microsquirt. Original carburetor switched to Weber DCOE, now throttle bodies!  As far as I can tell I have the timing on, and AFR gauge settling in at 14.7 on long drives. Water pump housing was also replaced years back due to a crack in the original near the thermostat, dummy (me) put the longer bolt in the wrong hole and cranked to hard! The pully size has always been the same OD of 5.25", however that does not mean that it had been switched from a smaller size before I bought the car! Can anyone verify what an original 72 MKIV pully size should be, could something that simple really be my problem.

The TRansit is dead - long live the TRansit! The diesel knock was treated by my local guru 'Deisel Bob'.    To cure would cost more than the van was worth, so he 'fixed' it but with only 30 days guarantee.  And I flogged it, quick! But I need a TRansit, and found another.  Needs work, but fitted by a cabinet maker with all the mod cons, except for a tow bar!  Which will ne corrected soon. Onwards!  En avant! John

Don’t know about the pulley hole sizes. Is this a 1300 or 1500?  1300 has a smaller pulley than a 1500 (to match the different respective crank pulley sizes)or should have. Some thoughts on the basic overheating problem.  - Is the gauge known to be accurate? How has it been verified? Could it be over-reading and reporting a problem that doesn’t exist? - Do you have any real overheat symptoms; ie boiling over  Assuming you have a real overheat problem, have you ever checked inside the water pump housing, specifically the flat internal ring behind where the impeller will sit. These sometimes corrode quite badly making the pump less efficient, though mainly a problem when sat in traffic at low rpm. When the revs are up a bit pumped flow should still be plenty. Also, lean running or regarded ignition timing can cause hot-running.

Questions before I send in a surplus pump for rebuild by a specialist to finally rule out the pump as the problem for my MKIV Spitfire running hot on long drives (195-205F), car has run hot since the day I bought it in 1990. Over the years I have tried larger radiators (Currently have a GT6 radiator retrofitted), Different Temperature thermostat values (160, 180), and currently a cheap non-serviceable pump replacement from online retailer. I also have a future project in mind to try and fit a serpentine belt requiring change of pully. Question 1: Do the newer Triumph non-serviceable pump pulleys have a standard press fit size center hole, or should I source for older pump that has removable pully I could purchase and send in for rebuild/upgrades (not sure it’s worth going that route)? Question 2: Is a smaller diameter pully available to move more water (pump fan has been deleted), is this an option, or would not make a difference (i.e. can only move so much water through the engine)? Andy