jackcarter71 Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hey Folks: Well, after a year of distraction playing around with a Pantera. I turned my attention back to my GT6. That said, I dropped in a rebuilt and re-curved Lucas distributor, checked that the fuel pump was pumping gas and that the needles where clean and likewise spark plugs and the list goes on. Well needless to say the car would crank, but never came close to firing! ???? I checked I was getting a spark, all good. I checked I was getting fuel pumped to the carbs.. all good. But still no joy, not even close. I have a triple Stromberg setup. I know folks don't like Strombergs, but it is what I have currently... So, my question is... you guys have any suggestions on what I might be missing? or what I might need to do to get the engine up and running? Please let me know. Cheers JC71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 If you are getting sparks and getting fuel and have changed dizzie then it will be your timing and you may have simply put the distributor in 180 degrees out....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerard Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Or even less. Move your leads clockwise 1/6th, see if it fires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hi Jack, Welcome back! Not even a single puff, I agree must be the timing. Do a static timing test, 10deg BTDC should be good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y If it still won't fire, change the plugs. Frederick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackcarter71 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hey Folks: Thanks for the info... I did set the crank pulley to 10 BTDC when I dropped in the dizzy. Plus I believe you can not got the dizzy 180 out, as the lower spline or dog tooth is offset, so it only fit one way, right? I have a pertronix ignitor, so I am not sure if I can really static set the ignition with a test lamp. I can try, but I did not think that was possible with those things. It is super weird, as the car was running fine, 8 months ago... I took the dizzy out, had it rebuilt, and dropped it back in the same way. That said, can there be any issues with those carbs? As I have 3 of them.. even if one was messed up, I know the car would start and run, it would sound terrible, but it would fire. But is there something missing there? I will say that the little facet fuel pump ticks away and I did pull the main line and it pump a jar full of fuel.. to the front. SO let me know if you guys have any other thoughts? I will be playing around with the car this weekend, once I charge the battery back up? Again the dizzy was rebuilt, is it possible that it was put back together wrong??? Cheers JC71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Yes you are right, the shaft has one fat and one thin tooth on the shafts bottom, so it will only fit one way! Forget that, you have got the dizy seated right! right! When you "time" it up check No1 is on a firing stroke and that the rota arm is pointing at that cylinder! As long as you check this, the spark will be on the right cylinder at around the right time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Plug leads in right order based on rotor arm pointing at no1 post with no1 cyl at TDC on the firing stroke (no 6 valves rocking). Actually, if they are 180º out you usually get some pops and bangs caused by lighting the mix when valves are open. How old is the fuel? Goes off pretty quick these days. Give it a blast of easy start, if it fires on that you've proved the ignition. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteClan Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Set the timing as normal with a test lamp with the ignitor. Pete Richards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motov8id Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 remove #1 spark plug, remove dist cap. place you finger tip over the plug opening and crank the engine in short bursts.the compression stroke will be obvious, note rotor arm position. does that correspond to #1 on the cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackcarter71 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 well what do you know, it was actually 180 degrees out. Which should be impossible, based on the offset dog tooth design. But I guess, when the dizzy got rebuilt, it somehow was put back together in a manner that required me to move all the leads by 180 degrees. So it runs, but now it is running extremely hot. It was suggested to set the timing to 10-14 BTDC... but once I set it there it revs out of control, with the idle screw set a slow as it will do. Let me know what you think? Running hot, really hot, dieseling / running on when trying to turn the thing off... need some more help and advice. Cheers JC71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Lean running?? No idea about the reving, however running hot and dieseling instantly suggests you are running lean to me. You mentioned needles in your OP, have you maybe disturbed the settings on your carbs?? I personally know nothing about Strombergs, but maybe re-setting them could be an option?? In fact, was it Strombergs that maybe had some sort of issue with a diaphragm rotting or something, or am I thinking of the wrong carbs completely?? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilnaz Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Running hot suggests timing is out and you are running advanced by some margin. Can you not get a timing gun (strobe) and set for around 10BTDC? It is running now you just need to adjust it to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 You've got a vacuum leak in the intake manifold. Suggest you tighten all bolts first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackcarter71 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hey Guys: When I set the timing dynamic (strobe) to 10-14 BTDC the engines literally revs up to 3000-3500 rpm and the idle screw is set as low as it can possibly go. The whole thing is odd, as I never had this issue before sending the dizzy off to get rebuilt (new shaft slip bearings, etc) I have also consulted with Joe Curto (Stromberg / SU specialist) on the needles for the triple set up. I actually do have slightly leaner needles. But when I run a color tune, or a exhaust gas analyzer it always ran rich. That and the spark plugs always look black and powdered. I was wondering if most folks block the breather ports? Mine are currently set up, as originally designed. To pull from the valve cover. But I think that is why it runs rich. I did put a oil separator on it and tried to restrict too. Anyhow, let me know if you have any further thoughts. If not, I will plug the breather ports at the carbs and see if that changes the air mixture to be more controlled by the adjustable needles and if it stops the dieseling along with allowing me to set to the right timing and get the idle down. Cheers JC71. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elsieolly Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Are your butterfly valves jamed open ? That can be the only way it should rev at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfire6 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Hi, The distributor turns at half engine speed; so even with keyed dizzy it is easy to be 360d wrong. This why everybody asked that you check rotor was pointing at #1 when it should fire.. Now it sounds like excess of air or retarded timing.. Sorry not much help. Good luck. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitNL Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Could it be that the carbs have been adjusted(richer) to counter the airleak. A leak has the most pronounced effect at low rpm/high vacuum, effect decrerases as revs rise and vacuum drops. Cheers, Frederick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackcarter71 Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Well finally had the time to sort out the GT6 this weekend and got it running somewhat well. Basically I plug the breather ports on the Strombergs, which I gather were sucking enough air through the oil separator, that the engine would not idle down and thus I could never set the timing correctly. So I disconnected the the tubes, plug the ports and then fired it up.. set the timing at around 10-14 BTDC and then adjust the idle screw and all good at 800rpm. It runs and does not overheat... def needs a tune up, adjust the needles, balance the carbs and so on... But hopefully will take it for a spin this coming weekend... That said, it does seem to be smoking rather a lot out the back. I think my valve guides are worn or piston rings... never ending fun, right. That said, this weekend it will have to take on my other ride, which is WELL sorted now, the 71 Pantera. Thanks for the help, as always! Cheers JC71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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