1970 GT6 MK2

[Gt64fun]

52 minutes ago, Mark said:

love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Modern Revolutions use standard nuts, which are available as M12. I have 'acorn head' ones from MisteR Tee. 

[Escadrille Ecosse]

2 hours ago, Mark said:

Most of the things on your "to do list" could apply to my mk2, with the addition of body work, respray, etc. Your car looks great, love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Revolutions still use sleeve nuts. However if you give them a call they have lots of options available and very helpful. Sorted me out with replacements for the Scimitar recently.

[Speedysix]

13 hours ago, Mark said:

Most of the things on your "to do list" could apply to my mk2, with the addition of body work, respray, etc. Your car looks great, love the revolutions, always wanted a set for my car, fitted m12 studs so not sure if today's revo's use sleeved nuts, which would be a problem.

Thanks Mark, I think by time I eventually finish the list the car will have rusted away! The project never ends. I wish I had opted to go down the m12 route, I've always had it in the back of my mind that the standard ones are just going to break. I do have the extended imperial ones to fit my alloys

[Speedysix]

So it's official, the pictures I had from a good few of those jobs have gone rather annoyingly, switching phones they must have not been backed up.. bugger.

So on with the jobs!

The clutch pedal slop that all these cars seem to suffer with wasn't too bad on mine but figured I'd address it. Remove the pedal and simply Mark the hole position. Weld it up and then drill to correct size. Very easy and for a bit of extra strength you can weld flat washers wither side too. Upon refitting, I tiger sealed the pedal and around the holes as water accumulating on the bulkhead in the wet drips in from here.

The dash top recover turned out quite well

before this would have been the pictures of removing the old dashtop and vents and repairing it.

The dash top on mk2 gt6's are non existent anymore so I really had to be careful. DO NOT REMOVE THE VINYL ON THE DASHTOP. If you come to doing one of these don't mess with it, you'll pull all the foam off with it! First flatten any cracks of splits with sandpaper, then using some body filler, apply a smear and sand flat. 

The vinyl I used was supplied from Owen at park Lane classics. Lots of bulldog clips and a tin of evo stick, apply the glue, lay the vinyl and then stretch it out, clamp, stretch, repeat. Until you're left with no wrinkles and you can trim the edges. The demister vents just had a similar refurb. Smoothed out with filler, sanded and painted. Looks miles better than it did before!

A few little jobs fill the time in the evenings, like fitting a new chrome trim for the windscreen. I replaced the screen last year and the chrome trim had started delaminating itself in some spots and looked naff, so with some soapy water and about 15 minutes, I'd installed the new one

they just push in, without the soap forget it, you'll have no thumbs left. 

On the subject of screen, after doing some research, I settled on new wipers

these are NOS trico wiper blades. Brand new and the rubber looks it too! They are a tad sloppy on the arms, the diameter of the slot is slightly bigger than the arm as is the hole for the little dimple, I'll have a play around with getting them to a tighter fit when I fit them.

Now as with all of this the dashboard was gutted to remove the heater for refurb, again I'm quite annoyed I've lost the photos of this as it was quite a lot of work. I essentially eliminated any gaps in the box and made it quite air tight, that way there's minimal air lost before it gets to the vents. I also ended up upgrading the motor to that of a smart 4 2.

obviously this is the result. Its a Quality job, pun intended. So to fit the motor requres the old hamster wheel fan blade from the existing motor, drilled out to ever so slightly smaller than the shaft of the new motor, that way its a nice press fit. Now fitting it, you want as much of the fan inside the case as possible. Essentially just sit the motor and fan inside the case, measure the distance from the case to the motor and add a few mm to amount for the movement of the shaft, box being compressed against the bulkhead etc. Enough so it won't rub.

The rest is fairly straight foward, I purchased some aluminium tubing and bolts from b&q to space the motor out and to make a shroud, a quality street tin with some rubber seal either side. You may joke, but it's genuinely the perfect thickness and was pretty much spot on the right width and circumference. I have wired it to the existing resistor and on full power, it draws just over an amp less then the standard fan but produces over double the air flow I'd say. It's a bit more proud behind the dash and does require a bit of jiggling with the loom but it fits nicely.

I just want all these little jobs out of the way, then I can turn my attention to the engine. I think I'm going to go with the tr5 6 35 65 cam, just need to find a good source for new ones

Jacob

 

[RedRooster]

+1 for the TR5 cam. 

[Steve 13-60]

Fan motor off a Honda Jazz also fit nicely, but have to open up the hole diameter....and used the 4 speed controller. Had to replace the on/off switch with a 4 pole rotary tho.

Think I need to also open up the inlet hole diameter, seems to struggle on full speed.

[Speedysix]

On 4/19/2024 at 7:00 AM, RedRooster said:

+1 for the TR5 cam. 

Just got to find a good supplier to buy one from, not sure where the usual places like rimmer, canley and moss get their's from, or if it even matters....

It's definitely 307689 right?

 

[Nick Jones]

Newman will grind you one on a new blank if you ask.

 

[Escadrille Ecosse]

On 4/19/2024 at 7:39 AM, Steve 13-60 said:

Fan motor off a Honda Jazz also fit nicely, but have to open up the hole diameter....and used the 4 speed controller. Had to replace the on/off switch with a 4 pole rotary tho.

Think I need to also open up the inlet hole diameter, seems to struggle on full speed.

Steve, I have to ask what that other hydraulic cylinder under the steering rack is for??

[Steve 13-60]

It's for when I tow it on an A frame.....puts the brake on, on over run. Towed it all the way to Berlin and back, worked fine.

[Escadrille Ecosse]

9 minutes ago, Steve 13-60 said:

It's for when I tow it on an A frame.....puts the brake on, on over run. Towed it all the way to Berlin and back, worked fine.

Excellent

[JohnD]

Most ingenious!  May we see detail of the linkage, please?

John

[Steve 13-60]

I'll dig them out, think they are on the laptop.

Found this on the phone though..... This is the engine that lasted 150 miles due to the chocolate cam from Canleys......

I dragged the Herald back home to Berlin to fix the motor, left it there while I nipped back to blighty, then lockdown .....didn't see it again for 3 years!

 

[Steve 13-60]

[Steve 13-60]

It's a clutch master cylinder in-line with the main brake line, so when activated operates all 4 wheels.

And when you operate the normal brakes the fluid just passes through......old hydraulic handbrake trick from yonks ago.

[Steve 13-60]

Ha, the infamous chocolate camshaft on the left.......new from Canleys....lasted 150 ish miles.....they gave me a refund , but cost me around £300 as had to regrind the crank etc etc.

[Nick Jones]

Steve, you appear to be trying to directly post videos? Doesn’t work….

[Steve 13-60]

Yes, noticed that....what is the correct method ...or isn't it possible?

[Nick Jones]

Put them on YouTube, Vimeo or similar and link to that.  I’m going to delete those posts. Suggest maybe a separate thread for your Herald - seems worthy!