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Triumph T6 Spitfire Gt Build Chris Sherrington.


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Well Gaz on CT forum found me the correct height and type nuts last week so I ordered a set and they are perfect:

 

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Now I just need to fit the studs to the new alloy hubs and shorten the freelander studs and we are good to go. Pimp My Ride style. Ha Ha.

 

This makes me think back the the beginning of this thread, I fancy a rear spoiler and front spoiler.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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  • 2 weeks later...

Went to the shed today when the wife was distracted. Just had a shoulder op so shouldn't be doing car stuff but I did manage to remove the studs from the alloy hubs and fitted the freelander studs.

 

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Studs fitted.... Alloy hub adapters bolted together.

 

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All bolted together and the freelander studs need trimming down 3 threads but I'll remove 5 threads as the short nuts will still be fully threaded by another 3 once the 5 are removed..

 

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Only a small step but something rather than nothing while my shoulder is recovering.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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Finished both front hubs off while the wife was at the gym. It was a covert mission as if she knew...... well it's too terrifying to mention!!!

 

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Used a hacksaw to remove 5 threads from each stud then used the hand file to touch up the threads.

 

So the dates are practically set in stone now. The car should arrive home on the 1st or 2nd of September. I've made a list of all the bits that need doing for the car to pass the mot and I'm trying to get as much done at home as possible hence the hubs. Fingers crossed it will be on the road for next month or October.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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As i'm currently recovering from my shoulder op, it's given me time to look at the Ecu Package a bit closer.

 

Specialist Components: Typhoon Engine management system.

 

Traction control: Cuts individual fuel injection cycle and advanced ignition reduction to reduce torque. For this there needs to be trigger wheels at all four wheels. This is in 2 wheel drive format only as it uses the non driven wheel speed to recognize wheel spin.

 

Launch Control: A launch control strategy to optimise acceleration from a standing start. This function operates by holding a set engine speed regardless of throttle position when stationary, this limiter is cancelled when the vehicle starts to move allowing the engine speed to increase.

 

Gear shift cut or Powershift Capability: This is when you can change gear with the throttles wide open. There is a switch mounted on the gear lever or clutch pedal. This acts like a rev limiter and cuts the ignition and the fuel when you shift gears with full acceleration giving you a quicker gear shift and quicker 0-60.

 

Once the Spitfire GT is on the road I will be looking at making these work on the spitfire. I think if I develop these functions then the £15,000-£25,000 price tag of a plastic spitfire will become even more desirable. After all the ecu will already be there so these functions will simply allow the car to put the power to the road that these cars will have. It will also make the car safer for those who drive all year round as we all get it wrong every now and again. Looking forward to trying these out as my Speedhut GPS speedo has 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer!!! So I'll be able to see by how much It makes the car faster.

 

Lots to come even when the car seems finished inside and out.

 

Chris.

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Buggar Buggar Buggar, upon doing some research it turns out that Gear shift cut or Powershifting should only be done with dog gear sets. General thoughts over the net say that the syncros will dissolve without the use of the clutch to slow the syncros. I suppose if I blow this gearbox up I could go for a dog set in my next box but it's all added expense so for now thats off the cards too. If anyone knows different please correct my findings.

 

Launch control can still be played with though so I suppose I better find a suitable big glowing "LAUNCH" control button. Ha Ha.

 

Chris.

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I have the full power shift cut activated on my EFI car. Used it once on a dry straight tarmac road from first to second. Rear tyres lit up, things got real sideways real quick. The most worrying thing was the VERY LOUD BANG from the transmission. A mate told me later not to use it first to second. That loud bang put me off using it at all, dont think transmission would be up to that punishment too often.

 

Laurence

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Gear shift cut or Powershift Capability: This is when you can change gear with the throttles wide open. There is a switch mounted on the gear lever or clutch pedal. This acts like a rev limiter and cuts the ignition and the fuel when you shift gears with full acceleration giving you a quicker gear shift and quicker 0-60

 

What happens when you want to change down though? Surely you'll want to blip the throttle as you change gear...?

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Hi Aj,

Its only for sequential gearboxes. Like motorcycle gearboxes, so when there is no drive i.e. overrun the gearbox will drop down easy. However this stuff is very expensive and as Nick says not for the road. I was just haveing a look at the features which my ECU can do.

 

Chris.

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I've made an expensive decision today. Once the LSD and uprated drive shafts have been payed for I will be buying the RACELOGIC Traction Control/launch control/powershift control unit with sensors etc. Will cost about £1000 but apparently for light weight performance cars that are used all year round it's the Mutts Nuts. It has some great features and everything is designed to work together where if you install these systems separately then they tend to trip each other up. Also the RACELOGIC Traction control makes driving in all hazardous conditions safer were high performance cars are concerned. It has a neat little settings knob for Wet(0%slip), Dry (5% slip) or for more fun 10% slip, 15% slip, 20% slip and OFF. I think this would also give me piece of mind when the wife drives or when anyone else has a go. There are quite a few people that have been caught out when driving plastic Spitfires and I think the price of the system will out way the heart break of an accident.

 

I'll need to fabricate some brackets and they need to be very sturdy. My thoughts for rear pickups will be mounted to the bottom of the diff and sensors counting the bolts on the output/ drive flange of the diff. The fronts will be a bit more tricky but I think a bracket off the back of the stub axle/upright counting the brake disc bolt heads. Just thoughts at the moment as I'm still recovering but I think it will be an easy install.

 

More when it happens.

 

Chris.

Edited by CHRIS211083
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One of the joys of driving a high powered classic is the pure driving experience devoid of any modern electronic gadgets. Having had a quick look at the Racelogic site and details of the traction control I just can't see how this will work with a LSD fitted as well. Drive the car first I say and then save your money.

 

Pete Richards

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The Wife and I went up to see Bobbyspit today. He took me out for a drive in his zetec mk4 spitfire and it was very nice,quiet and quick!!! Well done that man, just lots of little jobs left and finishing off. It was a nice preview of what my spitfire could be like.......except he has the heavier, larger cc Zetec(1.8 I think) with more torque and he also has the 3.63 diff as opposed to my 4.11 diff but we do both have type9's??? To be honest the to cars will be totally different but If it's half as quick as his I'll be happy. He has 130rwhp. My 1.6 Zetec se should have about 135 at the crank so more like110-120rwhp fingers crossed. Had a very good trip and I really can't wait to join in with the Club Runs. Not too long now..............

 

Chis.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Car came back today, this was suppose to be a good day. However the car still looks like crap!!!

 

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No front quarter valance fitted. Passenger side door fits worse than when it left.

 

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Bonnet gaps are still wrong and miles out.

 

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Drivers door fits just like i had fitted it, round the back but my problem was fitment round the front. This has not been fixed.

 

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Bonnet scoop is bolted on not bonded on and smoothed as I expected.

 

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Bonnet is physically to wide and Graham has just bunged the bits on and forced the cone into place destroying it. He says it's my fault and I stored the bonnet wrong and should have built the car earlier. He also says the bad fit on the doors is my fault to as they are twisted and i must have put heavy things on top of them for a long time.

 

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This has all really annoyed me. I payed £7,000 for the kit plus £4,100 for the work that he did. Just feel really flat about it. The annoying thing is I could have done all this myself and saved the £4,100 and still have the same finish.

 

Here for instance, he drilled the holes for the locks but didn't fit washers which would spread the load.

 

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The body tub side of the door catch or striker plate.

 

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I made plates for these so the area would be stiffer. He didn't use them or even cut down the bolts. The plates came back with the car.

 

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The spats were suppose to be fitted. In my opinion they are not and need blending in and attaching properly.

 

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The rear hatch was fitted and I'm happy with the handles but the bottom feet are crap and need redoing. In total I'm very unhappy and expected to have to do very little to get her on the road but I'm now looking at next year.

 

Sad day and hard lesson learned.

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Doesn't look too good to me. Also the excuse about the fit doesn't ring true to me based on my experience with fibreglass cars and panels. Generally if a panel is twisted it's the result of the mould not being stiff enough.

 

In my opinion you have two options. Spend longer and fix it yourself or alternatively resort to a legal remedy to at least get the cost of the work in addition to the kit costs. If you decide on the latter make sure you have plenty of evidence in the form of pictures showing the poor quality of workmanship. It would also be helpful to get a third party opinion from a suitably qualified person on the 'work' that you have paid for.

 

Pete Richards

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Chris, I've been following your build here in the states and that is a real downer. Especially after you've paid the expert and expect expert results. I've been in your shoes before having put my full faith and confidence into someone to get the job done right only be let down. Hope you get a succesful remedy for getting it straightened out to your level of expectations.

 

I've got a LeMans style bonnet (shown in pic) from Mark Field @ Jigsaw and I have been very pleased with their products and level of support. Just wished I didn't live on this side of the pond so to speak.

post-1123-0-72008000-1378386167_thumb.jpg

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