willcolumbine Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 I'd consider making my own loom but only because I'd want to do it in thinwall cable to save a few kgs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Interesting point james, would save alot of time if i was to buy a standard wiring loom from said company and get them to add the earth return wires. Then it wouldn't need to be reopened. A thought for the future. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 The looms I have seen from Autosparks are very very well made. I don't think anything you could ever want needs rewiring, just adapting- the basic system works fine with a few additions to it. But don't let me stop you from wasting your time and money Maybe you could ask them to make you a loom just not all wrapped up? That way everything is a perfect length and you can just add stuff where needed. 1. I am moving my battery into the boot. 2. Due to my revised fuse set up which will use at least 12 fuses, prob closer to 16, not least due to me seperating lighting circuits down, allowing for the addition of radio and amp, electric fan, washer pump etc etc I need the space to mount the boxes. This will not be on the front firewall, but moved a lot nearer to the batteries new position. Basic safety suggests this, then if you have a short the fuse will actually protect the majority of the wiring. Moving the battery to the back and leaving the fuses forward leaves nearly a car length of cabling completely unfused, which incidentally runs near enough your entire electrical system!! 3. EFI will at some point be installed, system needs to adapt for this. Now forgive me for not wanting to waste money, but why on earth would I want to buy a electrical loom that is completely inadequate for the task I have!! It is based upon a three fuse system, so I would need to adapt for that. It is designed for the fusebox at the front, so it will need adapting for that. It will need adapting for using relays on the lights etc. And not only that, it will still need adapting for a modern radio and amp, EFI, electric fan, washer pump, fuel pump. And you really reckon I will save money adapting a new harness?? Personally, by the time I have factored in all the additional wire/fasteners/terminals/etc required, plus cost of a new harness, I really do not think that I will be saving that much money!! Cheers, Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 battery to the boot is just 2m of cable and 2 £2 connectors, the rest of the mods your talking about phil are all just adding in new wires to the system, which is easy and cheap. There is at least 24 different coloured wires and in at least 5 different ratings in the loom add up the cost and the stress and it would be much cheaper to modify a new loom, thats the point. The power in these cars is mostly due to the lightweight nature, im concerned your doing up a fancy engine and then pilling the car full of heavy wiring and stereo components these must add at least 10kg to the car! i know its an everyday car, but there is a lot of un-nescessary stuff there. I ran mine everyday for a year with a sony stereo h/u and a couple of speakers and it was more than loud enough. At the end of the day its your car, good luck, but it aint something i would undertake lightly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 The power in these cars is mostly due to the lightweight nature, im concerned your doing up a fancy engine and then pilling the car full of heavy wiring and stereo components these must add at least 10kg to the car! I know I am adding extra weight, hence wanting the extra power!! I ran mine everyday for a year with a sony stereo h/u and a couple of speakers and it was more than loud enough. Your Spitfire you mean?? Good to know, the only reason I was factoring in an amp was because my previous attempt (with a ripspeed h/u right enough) was not powerful enough to combat the noise of a standard 1500!! I was goifn to do it as a tiered install, find a good quality h/u first, then add an amp if it became necessary. Mind you, these days amps do not have to be big clunky things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 tbh its like the stereo in the corvette for me, pointless i much preffer exhaust note to any music Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexC Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I had a stereo used it twice then chucked it to ditch the weight. Exhaust was to loud to ever hear it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 I kind of like not having a stereo. Less to distract and listen to the cars own music. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 you can't have a car with no tunes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Just been out for a late night drive to test out the new breaks Man its nice out there tonight with the top down 8) Well there's no doubt that the breaks work - think I may have to relearn a bit more subtlety with the pedal ;D IMO the pedal has too much travel at the mo. so may well swap the master cylinder at some point The only other thing is that the car is squirming a bit under heavy breaking, doi need to change the break balance? or shold I check the suspention set up first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Id just make sure the rears are adjusted and bleed the hole system again. Too much brake pedal movement is usually the rears need adjusting. As for the squirming, it could be down to road surface, tyre pressure(check it) or something looser than it should be on the suspension???? Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 A spongy break pedal is the brakes with an air bubble however too much pedal movement suggests what toby is thinking, the mastercylinder isnt able to pump enough fluid to the larger brakes. Might be worth a reblead and adjust, but i've never had to adjust my rears in 3 years or so, just once when fitted. Which master cylinder you using toby? if its the twin from the 1500 it should have more than enough preasure. As for squirmy brakes, what have you done to the rear to compensate for the larger front brakes? the tail end will go very light if you dont balance the breaking force. have you changed the rear wheel cylinders? there are three different types, might be worth a shot to balance the car, also someone a while back was suggesting better rear shoes with mintex coating on them or summit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Chic Doig recommends the mintex shoes for the spit. However id adjust the rears and pressure bleed the system. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Squirmy/wriggly under braking is probably because the front and /or rears are going slightly toe out under braking. This might be down to the basic settings or squashy bushes or some other marginal component. With better brakes it is being highlighted. Mine is a bit like this (would probably be horrible if the brakes were any good) and is as a result of me purposely setting the front tracking to parallel. This makes it very slightly toe out when driving which seems to help the turn in without making it too darty, but the extra load on the bushes when braking increases the toe out and makes it a bit wriggly under braking. Firmer bushes will reduce the effect. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Thanks for the info Re: the master cylinder its a standard single spitfire one. have got more used to the new feel today (system does not need bleeding) just has more travel than before. think I'll go for the bigger master cylinder at some point though re: the Squirmy/wriggly under braking - guess once I've changed my tyres I'll get the alignment checked (loads of new bits since it's was last done properly) cylinders and pads were replaced on the rear when i fitted the new breaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 I really do suspect your squirmyness will be more cause your breaks are unbalanced massively now, your fronts are so powerfull the rears arent able to stabilise. You should switch the rear cylinders out for the ones from a GT6, they are bigger bore and will give a bit more preasure to the rear. You may also need a proportioning valve or a ballance bar between two mastercylinders to sort it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 I did put in gt6 cylinders :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 If they are larger diameter bore I'd refit the smaller bore cyclinders. Drum brakes are SELF ENERGISING. They don't need extra force applied, you want a nice small bore cylinder so they are operated EARLIER. Larger cylinders need more fluid displacing to operate them, hense they give a spongey feel. You need to make sure they are adjusted well. ALL the time. A larger bore M/C will probably do little for the pedal travel. Just make the brakes heavier to use. I've got NO slack in my pedal I use a 0.750" M/C and stock spitfire cylinders. I find all the slack on the pedal was related to the rear brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveNotSoSideways Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Use Castrol Response Dot4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattius Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 ahh i remember now, sorry i got that the wrong way round, i messed lots with the rear to make the brakes have less pedal movement due to my leg being duff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 I've got NO slack in my pedal I use a 0.750" M/C and stock spitfire cylinders. . my M/C is only a 0.650" though, was thinking of moving to a 0,750" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Girling-Master-Cylinder-0-750-Rally-Race-Escort-etc-/160506850716?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255ef42d9c is this one going to fit ? not 100% on what I'm looking for! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurricane1500 Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 megajolt slowly coming along fitted the timing wheel and sensor today took hours mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Good effort, how did you attach the trigger wheel??? Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 megajolt slowly coming along fitted the timing wheel and sensor today took hours mind could you please post a few more pics of the bracket for the sensor? Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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