Mark

It clicks in all four gears. I did think the inhibitor switch at first, as the click noise sounds similar to the solenoid switching, but after checking the switch and wiring, OD is working as it should in 3rd and 4th. Drove the car this evening, pulling in any gear, If I depress the clutch I hear the click. Coasting in neutral, depress the clutch no click. Its when the gearbox is under load, dip the clutch and it clicks. Not tried dipping the clutch whilst in overdrive, but will try it. Think I will remove the tunnel cover and take it for a drive to try and pin point where the click is comming from, and disconect the live from the solenoid to rule it out.

Thanks Ian Few things to think about there.

Hi all Took my mk2 Gt6 for an MOT last Tuesday, which it passed with no issue. Using it daily, after Mothballing my mk1 Eunos until the outcome of the ULEZ judicial review is known. Owned the Gt6 since 2003, and I do remember replacing the OD, D type gearbox early on with a spare from a Vitesse. Always felt tight selecting gears but no noises or grating. Almost got home from the MOT when suddenly I could only get 3rd, and the gear stick became floppy. Suspected the linkage, but it turned out the grey ball joint on the end of the gear stick had disappeared, just lots of grey crums over the gearbox, so it had been slowly disintegrating until the remnents fell out. I'am sure I replaced all of the linkage several years ago with a rebuild kit, but it may have been on a different car. New complete linkage and ball joint fitted, gear selecting is precise and direct, with no sloppiness, but still quite tight. The gearbox has for a long time made a click when depressing the clutch and changing up through the gears. No noise if you just depress the clutch, which was replaced along with thrust race a few years back, only when a gear is being selected. I always thought it was when going into 3rd and 4th, and thought the OD solenoid was clicking, thinking a fault with the inhibitor switch or wiring, but after testing, it all works fine, only activating the solenoid in 3rd and 4th when OD is switched. I've never had carpet fitted, so you do hear every little noise, but after driving the car for the past week it has become more noticeable. I can fill the click through the gearstick. I'am sure it's caused by wear to something inside the gearbox. Just woundering what part, and if the tight gear selection caused the gearstick ball joint to fail. The click maybe a pointer to what's failing inside the box. Other than the click and tightish gear selection, it works well along with the overdrive. Probably live with it, and get some carpet sound deadening, but any thoughts of what could be the cause of the click and tight gear selection?

Thanks Hamish A TSSC member suggested their webchat service and I was about to make contact at 8am this morning, then thought I would give their online SORN application another go, and it worked. Wasted last night, trying several times, double checking the V5c reference number and reg, on two different computer operating systems Mac and android, and on the phone with no joy. Maybe there was a problem with the DVLA system? I did do a search and couldn't find anything saying there was a problem. Frustrating and worrying when its so easy for them to issue a penalty for none compliance, and every thing is automated, feels like your hands are tied behind your back. Anyway, got an email confirmation that it's now SORN, which I printed off and filed away, not that I don't trust their system?

Hi all I have a Mk1 Eunos (mx5) ran as a daily for last 10 years. Insurance runs out 22/06 and as I live in the proposed ULEZ extension area and the judicial review is not until the 4 July, I thought I would take the car off the road for a few Months to see how things pan out and use the Vitesse and gt6 as daily runner's. Went online to try and SORN the car using the V5c document reference and Reg number which is the other option you have if you don't have a tax reminder. I pay by direct debit so don't get a paper reminder, it just automatically sets up a DD each year. Have tried several times online using the V5c Doc reference number and reg and just get an error message, that something went wrong try again or register SORN by phone. Tried the phone option but get a recorded message saying something went wrong? Not sure what to do next, the worry is it says you need to declare SORN if not insured. I have already cancelled the Insurance renewal for the Mx5 which expires midnight tomorrow, just renewing the vitesse and gt6 insurance. Any thoughts, advice?

Someone just posted a reminder of this event on the Club Triumph site. Lydden is great circuit for spectators. Watched club racing there for years, and several car shows, but always seem to miss the shows. This looks like a great event, with discounted entry for pre 90's classics. I will try and get along. https://lyddenhill.co.uk/events/historics-on-the-hill-2/

I have a trailer that rarely gets used, renewed all four tyres about 5 years ago, 8 ply trailer tyres. I did occasionally move the trailer so the tyres weren't loaded on the same spot, but after a couple of years they started to crack between the treads. Covered less than 100 miles, still look brand new, but all need replacing before it is ever used. Same experience when I restored the Vitesse, bought new tyres used a few times before starting on a few jobs which turned into a full restoration. Despite being kept in a lock-up after a couple of years all four tyres showed signs of hairline cracks between the treads, and that was on a rolling chassis minus engine etc. Seems to me that if tyres aren't used they do degrade quicker for some reason. But the amount of shite rubber components I have fitted to the Vittese, that have needed to be replaced after a very short time it dosent surprise me. Even face masks elasticated straps turn into goo after a few days.

Great news Colin!

Looks like a great day, Wish I could have been there. Some very nice cars. Interesting Hurricane.

Great work! That's going to be a very quick Spitfire. Iam halfway through a mk3 Spit restoration, starting to think about engine gearbox, both tired. I am thinking of a modern engine swap, possibly mx5 engine and box combo, but the zetec and mx5 box is a sweet set up. My mk1 eunos has probably got to be mothballed in August depending on the outcome of the ULEZ court case, and need something to takes its place.

Like your wheels Nick, what make are they? Cars looking good.

I was on the M25, M40, M42, M5, Tuesday, collecting a hard top, post later, average speed cameras,(never ending road works) variable speeds from 40 to 60 mph heavy traffic most of the way, estimated journey time of 3hr 15 ended up 4.5 hrs, both ways

Had a couple of parking tickets over the years, one at a local council gym, parked the motorbike next to the cycle sheds along with a couple of other motorbikes, out of the way, not causing any obstructions, same place I had for a several years. Then out of the blue ticketed for 'Parking outside a designated parking area' a cover all term generally used, no common sense, negotiation, thats it! Could have taken up a whole car parking space for free, but didnt have the gawl to take up a scarce car parking space with a single motorcycle, when mums are driving around in circles looking for a space when taking there kids swimming. Spoke to a traffic warden, several days later, and she said it was a 'jobs worth' who ticketed me. Took it up with the local council who agreed there should be a marked space for motorcycles, and where would I like it? Months went by apparently lots of red tape. Gave up in the end and changed gyms.

Hi Collin, it was a plaster cast taken from a wooden pattern. I used a small blow gun to blow air around the join, and it made a pop, and separated. It was smaller than a shoe box, and a basic cylindrical shape, so nowhere near the size and complexity of your project. I was surprised how quickly and easily if worked, but I can imagine it could be potentially dangerous and easy to damage a peice using compressed air if not careful. Seen this on youtube, and shows the same priciple towards thd end. https://youtu.be/m9zvRpFpKN0

I used compressesed air blown between the two halves to help release a mould, think it was when I was making a mould for a core mould for an inlet manifold. That was using plaster, and on a much much smaller scale.

Thanks for this Nick. My Gt6 mk2 of 20 years has always struggled to start first thing, a squirt of easy start and it fires up instantly. I did see this on the tssc forum, and this afternoon had the bonnet up about to strip the valve down to make sure there were no blockages, then the rain started. Closed the bonnet and went indoors. I've seen that screw and never new what it actually did, so I will be out first thing to to what setting it's on. You saved me just in time.

That's one solid well maintained Spitfire!

Excellent job.

Nice Bike! Sold this in 2020, Triumph Tiger 800XC Triple, around 94 bhp, that felt quick enough, heavier and a lot less aerodynamic than your Honda. I am 60 this years, and on the lookout for another Bike, wont be for a while, and still undecided on make or model, an older BMW r100 needing work restoration would be nice.

I do have a mk1 spring, a de-cambered mk2 and this one I had made. As I am stuck on the coil spring rate, min 100lb, I think I'll try what you suggest.

Hi John Its a Mk2 Vitesse with TLD sliding spline drive shafts. Originally I used this flattened 3 leaved leaf spring 1.5'' high at the centre unloaded, with avo shocks, with 2 additional helper coil springs rated at 150lb per side. Now I know the leaf spring rate is around 267lb, with the additional combined rate of the 2 coil springs of 300lb, the combined rear end spring rate was around 567lb, Courier van territory. Now I know why the ride was so harsh on the road. I used 2.25 ID 5'', 150lb springs. The lowest rate I can find at that length is 100lb, which would mean a combined rate of 467lb which is probably still to firm for road use.

Hi all I want to find the spring rate of a leaf spring I had made a several years ago, initially fitted to my Vitesse. I used avo shocks, assisted with coil springs. It worked well but with speed humps, and other traffic calming obstacles introduced at the time, it was to much, the rear set up was to hard. I reverted to a de-cambered rear spring and spax shocks. I liked being able to set the ride height with the adjustable spring seats. The coil springs I opted for were rated at 150lb per side. I want to try 100lb coil springs but first should establish the rate of the leaf spring, which I should have done first time around. With me stood on the spring it compressed by 0.742" in the centre. I weigh 198lb. so dividing 198 by 0.742" I get a spring rate of approximately 267lb, have I done that right?

I think it sits better now. I'am sure it will handle better on the track. Only downside, I suppose, is clearence over speed humps etc. depending on what the roads are like where you are. Nice work.

Finished the type 14 Spit mk3 caliper rebuild today, new pistons and seals. In the kit was a tube of silicon grease. I assumed this serves the same purpose as red rubber grease. Rightly or wrongly I have always smeared the pistons and seals with brake fluid to help the pistons slide into the caliper, and just use the red rubber grease around the Very top edge of the piston, and under the rubber seal/boot, mainly to help prevent moisture entering around the piston/caliper and forming rust. I just had a thought, should I have smeared the side of the piston with the silicon grease before installation to help lubricate the piston to caliper seal? The reason I didn't, I didn't want to risk contaminating the brake fluid, and that I thought the brake fluid lubricated the piston caliper seal. I suppose in reality once the pads are in, brakes bleed, this pistons move very little anyway, what's your thoughts?

That's excellent! Throttle bodies sound throaty Big leap forward, Great work.