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- Today
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The early head studs stretched like toffee @60lb/ft.... well done leyland, a gnats over on the factory torque figure and the studs went into plastic deformation! improved ones happily held 68lb/ft.
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Well from that I'm not sure John? given that I'd assume 2 meters of cable that's around 0.06 resistance, and given that that chart shows that less than 0.2 covers a range of 70-100 (30)deg, then a 2 meter length of cable = 30 / (0.2/0.06) = 9 deg C. Ok wouldn't throw figures totally out of the ball park, but still a measurable difference. However given my knowledge of electronics and maths is limited, this could all be bollocks Alan
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Alan, as the sensors work on resistance, and its change with temperature, then the length of the wire between the gauge and the pan of hot water could offset the reading, as any wire has a resistance. https://chemandy.com/calculators/round-wire-resistance-calculator.htm But it is very low! This online calculator suggests that the Ohms in a meter of typical wiring wire (0.5mm^2)are 0.03. So you would need to be heating the pan in the kitchen while the car was in the garage (10 meters of wire?) to get near the change in resistance of a typical sensor. See below John
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I like mine, which is in a combined oil-pressure/temperature gauge unit. It is accurate, responsive and calibrated in ºC. It is a bit of a pain to work with though as the whole thing has to be removed as a unit and the capillary is somewhat fragile and needs to be treated with respect. I've also never managed to get it properly backlit as the one I have is designed for external lighting and a thin (<3mm panel mount). Originally MG I think? Nick
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From what I have read the way to go about setting up the electronic (non capillary) type, is to get a couple of senders and bench test them with the gauge and a pan of water that you can bring the temperature up in, and thus find the sender that works well with the gauge. I have also read that its a good idea when doing it out of the car to use a length of wire connecting the sender and the gauge of about the right length & gauge as that in the car between the two. Alan
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Yes, thanks Nick and John for your replies. I might go for this type of gauge on my Dolomite Sprint, given that the feedback I have read suggests that the senders currently available available are quite hit and miss. The one thing putting me off the idea is the probably that fitting such a gauge could make removing the instrument panel more complicated? Also I do prefer the appearance of the original Dolomite gauges! Ian.
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Can't remember which way up mine are offhand. Will shuffle out and have a look later. I do know I had to make some longer ones to get the bonnet to sit right. There are many possible reasons for that though given the, err, varied, provenance and condition of the parts used in the build. Nick
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Ah see your confusion about 121254, Work shop manual shows slots at bottom, parts diagrams show slots at top. Have no idea which is correct, but at bottom does make adjustment easier and looks right to me.
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Hi Gerald No need to apologise about being in Exeter The slots should go to the bottom. NB when given a brand new factory bonnet (many decades ago) I had a similar problem getting decent alignment (and still isn't perfect today with either of my bonnets) I found I had to extend the slots to get it close (in fact I made a new set of stainless ones so had oodles of adjustment) now I find I can remove and refit or even swap between the bonnets and it drops back just about right (provided I line up the pop marks I made when I had it as I wanted it). Alan
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Hello Nick Just found this site - Iam in Exeter with a 1971 mk2 vitesse convertible stuck on bonnet alignment cannot obtain 5 to 8 mm gap to screen as per the manuals , with all the queries as to which way should the links 121254 be fitted slot to the top or or to the bottom fixing . Just read you changed /fitted yours - did you get the gap correct , if so slot to top or bottom ? Iam a member of Club T too old now to be competitor any more. regards Gerald
- Yesterday
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I only use copper grease on things that get hot (backs of brake pads type of thing), I used a very thin smear of white grease on the studs when I re-fitted them. Torqued it down to what it said on the "slant 4 amended service guide" which was more than what it said in the original service manual. Even then it seemed a bit low.
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Just noticed you have an L reg Dolly, that has a better engine than later ones. BL ‘value engineered’, that’s cut the quality, of the engines post M reg. crank switched to a cheaper grade of iron and other BL corner cutting. The cars are also made with proper British steel, BL used a lot of cheap imported steel from the mid 70’s, note how badly newer Triumphs rusted.
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That’s a bloody good price! NOS Dolly ones have gone fir £120 on Fleabay. hylomar? Yes, used it as gasket dressing on the head gasket. A very light dusting of spray Hylomar kept the corossion at bay. Don’t use copper anti seize compound on the studs either, sets up like bloody concrete.. I Always used graphite grease wiped into the holes and on the studs. Never had any problems getting heads off. ditto. Head torques, I used the SAAB values, iirc, a bit higher than BLs.
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Hello All And I thought I was mad! But we did manage 3500 miles 2 years ago when we went to Italy and CLM on way back! Roger ps I think my Lambda controller or sensor playing me up??????
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This appeared a while ago in TRaction, hope you can read it. John
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That is an interesting article which provides (alarming) insight into many areas too. Re the plastic notes, it's partly about forgery and partly about extending lifetime in the field. Cash isn't dead yet. Nick
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Quite mad obviously. Though in a good way. Believe they plan on coming back through Russia in a northern loop. The geopolitics of such a trip are terrifying! Nick
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Yes, also called a "filled system". The gauge is actually a bourdon type pressure gauge calibrated in degrees and operated by the increasing pressure as the fill fluid expands as it warms up. Simple, effective and reliable.
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Clamp Cut Think and program Cut more and more And parts magically appear Oh, and re-re-re-cut the top surface...
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Awesome stuff.
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Roger's epic of Pyranean Pass Storming has impressed us all, and rightly. I thought my little saga to CLM and back was pretty neat too. But we are as dust in these guys wheel tracks: https://www.facebook.com/mongoltriumph/?hc_ref=ARTGzf0OZVzqIPNJvPCOKEeMpPP6B-RFXzCyx3bmEjRfnI0WmT1OauFw1FUZiSYmBdg&fref=nf London to ... Ulan Ude, in an estate Herald. Yes, I had to look it up too. 5285.6 miles according to the AA Routefinder - and only 103 hours 19 minutes sof driving - shome mishtake shurley? This is an epic of epics. You can follow our heroes here - they may be in Ankara by now! http://track.mongoltriumph.com/ Prerpare to be awestruck! John
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Thanks for the heads up Alan, I might acquire one of those when my bank balance recovers a bit. Hylomar? I assume NOT the jointing compound that I associate with that name? Cheers, Sam
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How is a capillary temperature gauge operated? Is it triggered by the water expanding/contracting as it heats/cools? Thanks, Ian.
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Vauxhall Electric Water Pump
oldtuckunder replied to oldtuckunder's topic in General Technical Discussions
Well Pressure Washer may not have been a success today, but looks like small 4ltr/min pump that Nick found on ebay for me has the Water Feature finally working! Slightly noisy but don't have it mounted yet and hidden from view (sound waves). Going to leave it running for 24 hours, if it survives that then I reckon it will do the job so worth installing properly. Alan -
Thanks Paul, that is an interesting read even though it doesn't address my question. Ian.
