JMH

Might be the result of a bent windscreen frame in its former life? Just clean up before you weld... :-)

Never had the need for cutting even Heritage Sills, its normally due to trying to get them lined up with the underside of the floor panel (and that is a mistake!). Another tip: Do put the bonnet on: You can get perfect panel gaps around doors - but a huge or narrow gap at the front, where the bonnet meets the front scuttle panel. Its time consuming, but you will get there :-)

As others have probably already mentioned: Remember to install the H-support (and a bit of carpet underneath!) And yes: I prefer to work on a rusted out shell, that has not been 'done' by some PO. Working on my 2000 mk 1 Estate now, and have found panels from about 4 or 5 other cars welded in - not a pretty sight - and no NOS panels by hand (except a sill strengthener and outer sill, donated AFTER I had bought and fitted a new outer sill from Lloyd/SouthwestTriumph). Copy was a good panel though.

All credit to the Swedish company HeartRunner :-)

Around 10% (*edit*) in 2022 14% in general, 16,1% in Copenhagen Area (sorry, in Danish only): out of hospital cardiac arrest: https://hjertestopregister.dk/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Aarsrapport-fra-Dansk-Hjertestopregister-2022.pdf Have been implementing these, first in Greater Copenhagen, now in hole country https://heartrunner.com/

Use a modern inertia switch - some comes with an extra wire so you will get a warning light too (in case you are in doubt what you have hit :-) ) Some modern alternators are prone to create high over voltage peaks, so make sure it is solid grounded and the wires to the battery are good. A friend of mine had a fried MJ-module and I used a LT4356 overvolt protection from Linear (got a free demo board from them a few years ago).

Nice work, very well done :-) When I did my first Spitfire (mk3), and lifted the body tub from the frame, I noticed someone had written 'Newton' in the black primer on top of the frame. Still wonder why!

Tricky place to do a proper repair, and it must be solid! You have upper dash-panel folded on a-post and welded at the drain channel, front dash panel from inside, outer a-post and inner a-post. Would remove the crash-panel before wading in! If taken care, you can patch it up, but you need to remove rust.

Out of interest - do you have any links or info about why this didn't work?

If you don't have a shrinker/stretcher and if you are not used to work with a hand-made-tool for this, I would go for small patches. If you can get access from the backside, a small cobber strip will help you when welding :-)

That's the Swedish nickname for a Mini - "Dog House", the nickname used in Denmark (Hunde-hus) :-)

Believe its in Sweden or Denmark.

One of my former neighbours did about the same in his old mini; but around central Copenhagen as he wanted the car moved to his parrents place. He had lost (!) the steering wheel. :-D

I do have an original Stanpart outer sill (from memory 1970ish). They differ slightly from the early spitfire ones as the lip at the upper a-post is not as deep; on the mk 4/1500 it was welded at the edge, not spot welded. Can't spot the difference from the OE Heritage ones, though I believe the new ones could be made of a stiffer grade of steel? :-)