JMH

@JohnD what I did try to tell was - it would never happen here in Denmark; not now and not then. Sandemose, yep! If you asked a Dane if he or shw knew who designed the Oresund bridge, he/she wouldn't be able to answer ... Speaking as an engineer the old bridge shown was a very fine example showing how forces are distributed in the construction.

You have wonderful bridges left from the last century - in Denmark, they have been replaced with concrete - or just removed. The 'Old langelinje-bridge' done by a (in Denmark!) famous constructor (Anker Engelund) next to the harbor of Copenhagen was my favorite, but the Council and the harbour authorities had a fight about repair costs, ending its life. Now replaced with an ugly concrete bridge. Old bridge: https://kbhbilleder.dk/kbh-arkiv/92573 - taken down in 1992. A plate on it? No way, we still pray to the law of Jante :-/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_Jante

:-) Nice car btw - mine was about FD 4295L (if memory serves me) From this to this (don't ask how many years etc) - and then I sold it ...

They often go there: Should weld up easily - frame only used on mk 3 to FD 7500 ish? so not easy to get hold on s/h. A good old fashioned blacksmith should be able to help with the rivet if you can not use af cut down bolt. But need to be able to pivot, if its the big one in the picture :-)

Second that! Cheers, Mad welder :-)

Second that. Jens - from Denmark too.

Looking good! Could be interested in the panels you mention, but don't know when I will be able to pick them up though. Painters in Denmark only works for insurance companies and the rest are just there for your money...

I like :-)

@John: If you look at your drawing - the current (yes, I know - electrons 'walks' opposite, but forget that!) will go through your diode and make a short across the LED (i.e. there will only be aprox 0,7v left on the LED). That's not what you want. Long time since I did electronics, but why not put a capacitor - it will not draw DC but send spikes down on ground.

Looking good me thinks, but as Nick tells: Patience pills required! And yes, avoid the 'new' rubber washers - its sh*t IMHO. Use some of the alu washers and ad a piece of conveyor belt or equal to lower resonans, noise etc. There are an official guide about how to put it all back on the frame: http://vitessesteve.co.uk/ServiceTrainingNotes - see "Body - Herald - Vitesse - range"

@John - how much load is on the relay?

I just recently recommissioned a good friends B&O turntable 4004 - needed a lot of work, but came out very nice. Not easy to find spareparts now, but did find one here in Denmark doing belts and correct profile rubber bands for the carriage. Did a lot of work on B&O tube tv's - but now its just a few capacitors, or the bin... My ancient Harman Kardon amp gave up last month, don't really know if I am going to fix it. Lack of time...

Sweden was indeed a good market for the big saloons in the 60's and 70's and as they don't use a huge amount of salt on their roads, quite a few has survived.

Need new hoses for my mk3 spit: running dellorto carbs and a huco fuel pump. AN6 fittings (bought cheap!). Any recommendations? SAE 30r9 - but from where? Found these on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1m-x-3-8-Goodyear-Biodiesel-E85-Ethanol-OK-rubber-fuel-hose-10-mm-SAE-J30R9/162616640911?hash=item25dcb5058f:g:UM4AAOSw7pNZonG0&vxp=mtr /Jens - Copenhagen