Hello Nick, With a lot of luck we will now have a few photo's. 1st photo is bump stop and it's mount.(at base of ruler) Shiny circular part on far right of second photo is brake drum, Dark bit at bottom of third photo is back of brake drum. Other two are underside of trailing arms. Regards, Michael.

Interesting, I thought it was done with a flip-flop circuit? 

Hello Roger                     All that above my pay scale !! But I have two of your old! boxes one fitted to Spitty(which works perfectly )  the other waiting to fitted in the Vitesse !! (plus a good friend runs one as well!) but if you want me to send it back for the Super upgrade I will and fit it to Spitty for a good testing next year(Spain booked for June and hope to talk Memsahib into a second trip later!! I am a bugger for trying new bits like you do its bit like tweaking engines because you can it's not about the power(to me it's engineering type things Spitty seems to go well and can hold her own if in the right gear at the time(but does not have the flexibility of your sixes so requires skill??Luck? foot down in lower gears then she surprises them! roger

You can use the standard housing if you're running Webers/injection as the connection for the heated manifold is redundant and therefore available for the extra sensor. Use the heater return pipe to the back of the pump housing for the Mk1 Spitfire which only has a single connection at the back of the engine. Helps keep the hose count down!

Aaargh disaster Hamish!!! And when you said Sam Browne I was half expecting on the basis of all the people you seem to know  Nevertheless, bloody well done   

Looking really good, not far now! There's a thermostat housing you can get thats a direct fit without having to tap the hole for the sensor, I cant recall which Triumph it was from (I have 134681 written down somewhere which might be it). I put the gauge sensor in that and the new temp sensor in the water pump housing, so the ECU got an accurate cold reading for warmup enrichment.

Went to the awards dinner last night to pick up my 4th year running 2nd overall glass tankard. Great. From Sam Browne of Ridgard car seats   and my 3 times in 4 years greased weasel ( that is to be cancelled as an award) thus I was going to keep it   AND ITS BEEN LOST 😭  devastated as to me it has become more important than 2nd OA   the fastest accelerating Triumph in the championship  Trying to get over the Trauma as it was a one off bespoke trophy 😭

Not entirely sure who made the inlet manifolds for my Spitfire as they were s/h but I suspect Triumphtune. Had the same issue with fouling the tubular exhaust, which in my case is by Bell. Although in my case the front was the worst. My solution was to grind away a little metal from the inlets where they contacted the exhaust. After checking that there is a fair bit of wall thickness in that area. Because of the geometry it didn't take that much metal removal to get a lot of movement towards the head. I was also concerned about the air box proximity to the underside of the bonnet with the carbs angled upwards although in reality this isn't too much of an issue on the 4 cyclinder cars.  

Not easily.  They clash quite badly at the rear.  Photo above shows the issue.  For record the shims are going to be 7mm at the top and 12mm at the base.  I think that might be overkill, but overall manifold length is not going to be too long so I'm not overly worried.  I suspect it'll add a week or two to the project, but should end up a better job.  Dad's currently repairing a neighbour's grandfather clock, as far as I can tell he's replacing almost every contact point in the thing.  So lots of fine tolerance manufacturing.  The tricky part is persuading him I dont need that level of tolerance!

Can you not just bash some clearance flats on the offending bits of manifold?